Shaun_E

If you take the gearbox out as well then make sure you have a large bowl to catch the gearbox oil. I think this would be easier than trying to split the engine and gearbox in-situ.

Yellow SL #32

I think the brass screw with the cover is probably the bleed nipple which on my car is further to the back of the car than the point where the brake pipe screws in. Guess it's probably the hole with the clear plastic plug.

Yellow SL #32

Best wheel cleaner I have used is the Comma one that Caterham sell - worth giving that a try.

here

Yellow SL #32

Edited by - Shaun_E on 29 Oct 2004 15:34:01

Found it on this page.

Yellow SL #32

I couldn't find it on the RF Concepts website - can someone post a link.

Cheers,

Shaun

Yellow SL #32

Michael - I have exactly that issue with my Sony (see post above). After following Chelspeeds link and then a few others I got to a company called drivedata who can supply a LANC controller that reads the setting from the camera and sends the appropriate record command. I guess from this you need to switch the camera on, select the AV-in mode and then pack it into the car. The LANC will then detect that mode and when you hit the button will send the correct record command. I emailed drivedata and they confirmed that it would work so I'll be adding that to my Christmas list 😬

Information on the controller here.

Yellow SL #32

Maddox,

Interchangeable aeroscreens can be bought from Caterham (expensive) or Richard in France. They are a straight swap with a windscreen and utilise the front bolts from the w/s stanchions and a centre fixing on the tonneau poppers. The first time you swap you will have to cut the wires to the heated screen and fit bullet connectors. You will also need to spend some time attaching the mirrors and the centre fixings. Once all the setup has been done it should then be a 10 minute job to swap between windscreen and aero.

Sounds easy - perhaps I should give it a go 😬.

Shaun

Yellow SL #32

One other thought - are you using the sidescreens? They keep a lot of the water out and i find with RainX a 20 minute session is doable. The RainX also means you can wipe the screen with your hand without making it worse. How long are your races?

Tiff - read the post - he has to run a windscreen for the race regulations.

Yellow SL #32

Chelspeed - thanks for that link. Looks like there is a solution for me. I have emailed the supplier to see if their LANC will indeed do the job.

Cheers,

Shaun

Yellow SL #32

Anyone know if you can use one of these with a Sony camcorder (specifically PC109E). I use this with a bullet cam but the normal record button doesn't work with the AV-in and I have to select a menu option to record from the bullet cam. This suggests that a simple remote would not do the job. Pretty sure the Sony has a blue input so should support the technology.

Any advice appreciated.

Shaun

Yellow SL #32

I use RainX on the inside of the screen - it's about the only practical solution. The water beads so you can just about see. I've used it on a very wet trackday.

Yellow SL #32

There have been discussions about bumpsteer on this forum specifically about measuring it and possible corrections for it (on a Caterham). I have had this measured on my car and there was very little bump steer present although some other owners have found a significant amount. It will affect the ride and handling and it can be virtually eliminated by (in my case) raising the steering rack a little. Oliver, who did this for me with the aid of a home made rig, has a spreadsheet that calculates the bump steer and also the required alterations to eliminate it. I think it is impossible to completely eliminate it but a significant improvement can be made on some cars.

My specific problem and it's solution

A thread started by Oliver

Yellow SL #32

Drain the oil, then you can just undo the pipes from the tank and remove the tank - everything else stays on the engine.

Be careful when removing the pipes from the tank as it is very thin metal and easily bent.

Yellow SL #32

Edited by - Shaun_E on 25 Oct 2004 12:54:45

Do a search on here and I think you'll find that most people replace the 20amp with a 30amp (which is now standard).

Described here.

Yellow SL #32

It's a 14mm socket and as long as the bolt is not too tight then you won't have a problem. Try with your existing socket but if you can't get a decent purchase on it then you'll have to get one ground down.

Yellow SL #32

Took my FIA bar off this afternoon and the bolts were not that tight so no problem using my normal sockets. I'll check tomorrow what size it was but it would either have been one of my Stanley sockets which have a slight lead in chamfer or one of the 19mm Halfords Pro sockets I bought today. I would suggest that as long as the bolts are not either over tight or rusted then you would have no problem using a Halfords Pro socket.

Yellow SL #32

Cheers folks - Halfords pro stuff came up trumps again. 2x19mm sockets were required.

Allen key was 3/8" and of course its nearly impossible to get imperial allen keys. Got a cheap set in Halfords which had a 3/8" but it was a bit short so had to use a makeshift extension! If anyone knows where I can get half inch drive imperial allen keys I would be grateful - the metric ones I have are excellent.

Steve - if you're looking for an excuse then by all means come round. Just the front suspension and steering rack to come off now so I reckon I should be able to complete that tomorrow morning in time to get to the AWESOME meet and then over to Virginia Water for the Pistonheads gathering.

Yellow SL #32

Steve - thanks. If I don't have any luck today then I'll give you a shout.

Yellow SL #32

Do you need only one 19mm socket or one on each end?

Yellow SL #32

Cheers Mark - will pop down to Halfords but if no luck I'll give you a call.

Yellow SL #32

OK, hubs and drive shafts off, rear ARB disconnected, trailing arms removed so just need to get the A-frame off the de-dion and the upper damper bolts undone.

1. What size are the nut and bolt holding the A frame to the de-dion tube? and where do you get a socket thin enough to fit in the hole?

2. What size allen key do I need to undo the upper damper bolts?

Shaun

Yellow SL #32

Mike - on Roy's site you need to click on "Modifications" and then "Oil/Water Intercooler".

Fitting Instructions (Apollo Tank Installation)

Drain cooling system.

Loosen four nuts holding radiator onto rubber bobbins.

Lay oil cooler on top of radiator top hose to mark positions of cuts in hose.

Remove top hose and cut where marked in step 3 using a hacksaw and clamping hose gently in a vice or workmate.

Refit top hose but leave jubilee clips on oil cooler loose for time being.

Undo two bolts holding coolant header tank onto chassis and move tank out of way but do not disconnect.

Disconnect top hose from Apollo Tank and fit into driver's side connector on oil cooler using straight adaptor.

Thread the spare part of the top radiator hose along the new oil hose until it is up the the 90 degree connector. This will provide a cushioned base for the oil cooler to sit on.

Connect straight end of new oil hose to top of Apollo Tank.

Connect 90 degree end of new oil hose to passenger side connector of oil cooler using right angle adapter.

Tighten jubilee clips on oil cooler water hoses and tighten radiator nuts.

Secure oil pipes to chassis where required using cable ties.

Refit two bolts holding water header tank onto chassis. This will now rest on the two oil hoses but should still be approximately level.

Refil cooling system and bleed as per usual, checking for leaks from oil and water connectors.

Enjoy.

---

Yellow SL #32

Mike - pretty easy fit but depends on the position of your apollo tank. Read Roy Booth's instructions which are pretty clear, but with mine, the Laminova would not fit flat like Roy's as I think my Apollo was a bit nearer the side of the car. Measure the radiator top hose carefully before cutting - I didn't and now have the most expensive (per inch) silicon hose going ☹️.

Yellow SL #32

Mike - a Laminova would certainly help bring the oil temperature up more quickly and is probably a good idea for sprinting.

Yellow SL #32

Charlie,

I know what you mean about the point of no return. This weekend I take the remaining bits off my Caterham before the chassis goes to Arch for re-powdercoating. Every time I go out into the garage and look at the piles of bits and bags of bolts, I think "oh my god - what have I done". I suspect the rebuild is not going to be quite as quick and easy as the taking apart ❗

Shaun

Yellow SL #32