G. Winter Posted February 20, 2004 Share Posted February 20, 2004 Hello Have ordered Roadsport from Caterham. As you would expect, they dont ever have a problem with the engine. Just wondering how things are in the real world ? Have obviously heard of problems in the MG and Freelander camps,ref Head gasket probs/ cooling etc.Any experiences and or cures on any potential problems would be appreciated , as I am a great believer in prevention being better than the cure PS Expect the car to be mainly used on the road Cheers Graham Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rhubarb Posted February 20, 2004 Share Posted February 20, 2004 7K miles in my 140bhp 1.8K SV in 10 months now, and no problems so far... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dino ferrana Posted February 20, 2004 Share Posted February 20, 2004 Caterham's don't seem to do the head gasket as regularly as the Freelander etc. Mainly due to the fact it is a tin can with good cooling! Always use the right coolant as these engines will not like the wrong stuff going in. Plus check the fan switch is working regularly and replace if it is not! Most of the HG failures tend to be becuase a fan switch has gone. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frying Pan Posted February 20, 2004 Share Posted February 20, 2004 Graham Congratulations I've got the same - 1.8 Roadsport. All built, PBCd and SVAd, just waiting to go back and collect from Dartford on March 1st 😬. What have you specced? Are you building it? HG Failure does not seem to be too big an issue on the K series in a Caterham. Not saying it doesn;t happen, but rarer than in the tintops. Couple of reasons: - engine is less stressed. Ok we rev 'em hard, but the load isn't too great - We tend to look after them: warm them up properly, take time to check fluid levels, watch the gauges, change oil and coolant regularly etc. Don't worry, but Dino is right - the fan switch is key to keeping things cool, and doesn;t have a great reliability record... Guy See some pictures of the build here. PBC and SVA complete - waiting for March 1st! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Support Team Shaun_E Posted February 20, 2004 Support Team Share Posted February 20, 2004 Fan switch is £10 from Caterham so you could get a spare for the tool box. Other people have wired in a fan override switch on the dash so that the fan can be started manually. I have heard that there is a VW fan switch which is a direct replacement for the Caterham one and might be more reliable. Otherwise just enjoy your new toy and don't worry about it. Shaun Yellow SL #32 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anthony Micallef Posted February 20, 2004 Share Posted February 20, 2004 I have a 1.6k Supersport and the HG is on its way out after just 35k miles. I'm a bit miffed to say the least as I can't afford to get it done at the moment. Also a week after this happened my clutch bearing failed! My cars been off the road since October last year. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frying Pan Posted February 20, 2004 Share Posted February 20, 2004 Shaun Fan override switch sounds like a good plan - may do this on mine Guy See some pictures of the build here. PBC and SVA complete - waiting for March 1st! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve-B Posted February 20, 2004 Share Posted February 20, 2004 🤔anybody knowing the VW part number please post it 🤔 Steve B Big Black Beast^3 SV VHPD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frying Pan Posted February 20, 2004 Share Posted February 20, 2004 Steve Just done a search - part number is 823959481F according to this thread here Guy See some pictures of the build here. PBC and SVA complete - waiting for March 1st! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rj Posted February 20, 2004 Share Posted February 20, 2004 And I can second that it is a direct fit! /r Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gridgway Posted February 20, 2004 Share Posted February 20, 2004 Graham, I am not sure how likely you are to have HG problems as the engine well looked after and filled properly with coolant each time (it's changed etc) and where the fan switch doesn't break should be fine. However, I have to disagree with the other posters that reckon not many cat k's go pop. I reckon it's inevitable. Two main problems are the weakness in the engine itself (head located with blu-tac etc) and the weaknesses in the installation (hard to bleed the cooling system, fan switch failures etc). Comparing with freelanders is pretty useless unless we have any data to ascertain the failure rate. I have before suggested a survey on BC to collect data, but don't know how, other than start a thread and get people to state engine type and yes/no to HG failure. Mind you this is a good idea as I am still in dispute with Mr Seemingly (actually) Absent, who berated me last time on my assertion without any hard data. He then proceeded to use his usual mix, small pinch of engineering fact mixed with several heaps of dodgy logic to try and prove his point with no hard data at all!!! And if it turns out he is right, I'll just have to sell his wheels and leave his caterham on bricks 😳 Sorry got carried away! Graham Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Johnty Lyons Posted February 21, 2004 Share Posted February 21, 2004 I firmly believe that the head gasket failure can be traced to coolant problems to whit, any small leak in the cooling system hoses or club foot will lead to owners of Ks topping up their header tank. Usually this is with plain water from the can on the forecourt [ evidence for this is available] This is the start of the slippery slope to worsening coolant loss and subsequent HG failure. So always use correct coolant and investigate any requirement to top up what is a sealed system. It's going somewhere, usually not the gasket in the first instance , but unchecked that's wher it wil end up. I've had a 200BHP k since 1997 and it gets thrashed , but suffers no coolant problems whatsoever. I'm also a great believer in a small amount of Redline water wetter addative to keep the whole thing cooling perfectly. Just my tuppence worth. jj N.I. L7C AO.For my sins Membership No.3927. Se7en Services N.I. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gridgway Posted February 21, 2004 Share Posted February 21, 2004 So JJ, how do I defeat the insufferable logic of Mr SA? Can we run a survey? Graham Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mole Posted February 21, 2004 Share Posted February 21, 2004 I think there's a lot to be said for letting the engine warm up fully before stressing it - since fitting an oil temperature guage it's become clear that the coolant temperature is not a good indicator of whether the engine is properly warmed through. The coolant on my 1.8K is up to its normal 80deg within a mile of leaving home - the oil takes at least another 5 miles before it even gets close to normal running temperature - I keep below 4k rpm for the first 6 - 8 miles of any trip. The coolant temperature guage just isn't a good indicator of what going on - after a long thrash, my coolant temperature is still near to its normal reading - the oil temperature will have risen noticeably so IMHO if you want to avoid overstressing your engine, watch your oil temperature. If you haven't got an oil temp guage then oil pressure on tickover is the next best indicator SV 52 CAT - moles fly - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mole Posted February 21, 2004 Share Posted February 21, 2004 Duplicate post - 😬 SV 52 CAT - moles fly Edited by - Mole on 22 Feb 2004 09:22:09 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frying Pan Posted February 21, 2004 Share Posted February 21, 2004 Mole I presume you have an Apollo tank? If not, where did you stick the oil temp sensor? I didn't spec the Apollo, but I wish I had! Guy See some pictures of the build here. PBC and SVA complete - waiting for March 1st! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RESOLVIWOLF Posted February 21, 2004 Share Posted February 21, 2004 given regular track use many k's dont last that long in whatever guise .... but at least yours will be very cheap to replace. Thats teh most sensible route IMO if you do go for a K and are planning on doing a lot of trackdays. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Johnty Lyons Posted February 21, 2004 Share Posted February 21, 2004 I think that last comment is slightly unfair, K's have a slagging reputation of being made of cheese, but it's all in how you treat them if you are moving from an X-flow to a K there is a big learning curve They are not cast iron lumps built like a brick s**t House, but a fairly highly stressed Aliminum assembly. Correct cooling is essential as is Carefull warm up I have a dual digital temp guage for water and oil and I NEVER rev above 3500 until the oil temp is over 55 deg and in cold weather that can take 10miles. I also believe if you are going to thrash a K either on Road or Track you shoul dry sump it. Yes I know Rover use it as a wet sump engine but Transverse We have a 90 deg shift from that [ can't spell Long ..whats it] I was amazed to read in Low flying that the guy doing the build diary filed his up from install with Mobile1 is he mad always run in [if you run in I don't ] on a cheap multigrade mineral oil, the Synth is too slippy to allow proper bedding in of the rings. He's storing up trouble for later ;-((( I also never start my car without cranking for oil pressure first, So you think I'm mad the first 30secs of a car starting does 99% of the damage. There I've waffeled on long enough with what most consided Bo***oks But it's my personal view and I'm too old to change So there. jj N.I. L7C AO.For my sins Membership No.3927. Se7en Services N.I. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G. Winter Posted February 21, 2004 Author Share Posted February 21, 2004 Guy Cheers, Due to time or lack of it am having car Fac built.Spec as follows, 5 sd, Brilliant red, silver stripe, lthr seats, harnesses, rmvble wheel, polished exhst, hood bag, tnne cvr. Originally I was 95% certain I would have an SV but after 3rd visit and a back to back roadtest, opted for Rdspt, just couldnt get comfortable in SV, seat particularly unsuited to me and I also felt like a pea in a drum. Expecting to have to massage the pedals when I pick up car, ie spread them a tadge, apparently they do this often enough for people with big plates. Graham Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mole Posted February 22, 2004 Share Posted February 22, 2004 Guy - no I don't have an apollo. I've fitted a Laminova heat exchanger with the oil temp sender in the sandwich plate. BTW, the Laminova will help the oil to warm faster so the 6 - 8 miles to get up to normal temperature would probably be 8 - 10 without the Laminova. SV 52 CAT - moles fly - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scuffers Posted February 22, 2004 Share Posted February 22, 2004 I agree with most of what's been said, and would add: 1.4 & 1.6's are not that prone to HGF, it's the 1.8's that have *most* issues the points about letting it warm up are very valid, until it's up to temp, the clamp pressure on the HG is not 100% as the block will not have exapnded fully, also, when the stat is shut, if you rev the nutts off it, you will over-stress the water seal part of the HG, do it enough and it starts to piss water out the side of the head/block. Another issue (as already said) is that the Cat holds very little water, you don't need to loose much to have a *BIG* problem. real key to keeping it in one bit is to keep both the oil and water temps stable, the actuall temp is not *that* important, just that it's stable and not occilating. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mole Posted February 22, 2004 Share Posted February 22, 2004 Scuffers - good point about keeping the temperatures stable . I think this is where the Laminova helps because it's constantly working to equalise the oil and water temperatures and thus help to damp temperature fluctuations in the system. SV 52 CAT - moles fly - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Vine Posted February 24, 2004 Share Posted February 24, 2004 Graham, experiences and or cures on any potential problems would be appreciated My 1999 1.8 Supersport has suffered three engine problems in 31K miles: two knackered clutch release bearings and a failed water pump gland seal. I assumed the water pump was just bad luck, but I put the CRB failures (quite a common 7 trait, it seems) down to inadequate pre-loading (I've now solved this, I think). Apart from that, the engine's been fine. JV Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chimburt Posted February 24, 2004 Share Posted February 24, 2004 have a look on the elise forums at british cars.org ( or something ) for plenty of shouting about the k and HGF ( yep - they've even given it a TLA ) caterhams don't seem to cover miles very quickly ( or rather, build them up very quickly, i should say! ), so you're unlikely to be able to get enough data on this here? they do go, but i would have thought ( in agreement with some of the others ) that the chances of this being a problem for you would be small if you take care of your engine, and avoid things like jumping in and hareing off down the road, revving the muts off it. run it in carefully ( i'd suggest 1000 miles at 3500rpm max, then maybe 5000rpm until you reach 4000 miles - if you can do it! ), monitor oil and water use and IMMEDIATELY evaluate the problem if you are loosing either to make sure it's nothing serious, and fix it! as has also been stated the caterham should be quite well cooled - in the elise it's in a grp box which is very effective at retaining heat. later k series should be better ( something to do with dowels used to locate head/block interface ). i won't spec a 'monster' k series ( higher outputs ) due to the increased stress and consequently more heavy service requirements. at 140bhp this shouldn't be an issue for you though. good luck! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pleasantville Posted February 24, 2004 Share Posted February 24, 2004 where is the fan switch and what is the correct coolant to use? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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