Rob Walker

Edited by - Rob walker on 19 Oct 2001 09:15:49

Sorry my experience has been with the K series. Yes this is a common problem . Don`t like the sound of washers between clutch cover and flywheel, surely this would reduce the clamping force on the driven plate and also bring the cover closer to the release fork and bellhousing " not good ". I should ask Arnie or Chelspeed. Good luck Rob. Edited by - Rob walker on 17 Oct 2001 11:11:14

Sounds like the clutch release bearing. Mine also only made the screech in first and at low revs. I have had two fail and they have only lasted 4000 miles. Doubt it will be a problem with the gear box. Sorry.

Any one got a SPA center rear view mirror that they want to sell. I am not bothered if it is black plastic or Carbon fibre but would prefer the convexed mirror type. Cheers Rob.

£100 is my last offer.

Caterham told me that they had done an experiment and slackened off the fixings on a set of flared wings and then run the car, they recon the wing was actually forced down and gives small down force not lift. Not shure if I believe this story

I use a pair of snipe nose plyers or you could use circlip plyers.

Two sizes of cycle wings are available 15/16" and 13/14". Sounds like you have the 15/16" as 16" wheels would not fit under 13/14" wings. There are also three different wingstay lenghts so if you want to acheive the 13/14" wings as low as possible over your 13" wheels you will neeed the SLR Race wingstays.

John, I think your reasoning is correct. I have had two release bearings go exactly the same way and now after talking to some other unfortuate Seveners have come to the same conclusion. Len Unwin also comented on this problem in an earlier posting. He suggested setting up a counter spring reduce this effect but said it was difficult to get the counter spring rate just right. I also think using increased revs and stronger springing in the AP clutch cover may be a contributory factor. Rob.

I think the cam is the new Piper BP 285H which is the hydraulic version of the famed 740 grind. Why not give Dave & Karl a call on 020 7737 7114 and find out if they are offering a complete bolt on kit. Could be very cost effective as their M3d ECU could be supplied fully mapped.

I`ll give you £90 for it. They are only £132 fron Demon Theives and its possible to haggle a 10% discount from them.

You need to establish what type of sump/lubrication system you are running. If your car has oil/air seperator `Apollo tank` this is a 4" diamater ali tank about 14" tall that sits just in front of the engine on the near side. A dry sump will have its oil tank in the bell housing if its a Caterham system and you would measure the oil level from this tank as there is no dip stick on the engine. Yes overfilling the engine if it is a wet sump is not a good idea, any more than a liter too much and you run the risk of the crank hitting the oil in the sump. Caterhams advice to check oil level 5-10 secs after stopping the engine is the proceedure for the dry sump. Apollo tank system is as I posted earlier. Its no big deal to restart the running in process, you can drain and keep the syth oil if you like for later use. What do you prefer a car that is properly run in or moaning about your oil consumption.

Jon, At what point did you start using fully syth oil? Could be that at only 1200 miles the engine is not fully run in especially if fully syth was used from the first service at 500 miles. I would advise you to revert back to a lower spec oil such as Comma light and run the engine in again ie keep the revs down below 4000. A litre in 500 miles is too much for road use . Another possible explaination is the method of checking your oil level. With the Air/oil separator it is necessary to have the OIL at full operating temp and dip the oil when the engine has been at idle for a couple of minutes. Failure to do this will give vey different results. Checking the oil level with the drysump system is anybodies guess just fill it till it chucks it out seems to be as scientific as it gets.

I had terrible brake judder following fitting the AP big front brake package. I was convinced that the Alcan discs were warped as the problem had only developed since upgrading and I could measured .020" run out on the discs. Caterham sent me a new set of discs but when I fitted them the run out was still present. I retfitted the solid stock discs and the runout was still present. Turned out that my hubs had the runout not the discs. The remedy was to mark the disc and the hub so that they could go back in the same position. Then rotate the disc and mark the high spot on the disc, it is then easy to carefully remove a small amount of metal off the hubs disc supporting luggs in the behind the high spot on the disc using a very fine flat file until you have the disc running true. I used engineers blue to finish off and ensure that any high spots had been removed from the disc supporting luggs on the hub and that the disc was now seating flat on all four luggs. A tiny bit of course valve grinding paste also helped to remove the high spots off the hub. You could also take the hub to your local engineering shop and have the offending face skimmed up. Or buy some new hubs.

Chris, I to had this problem and found it necessary to file away the offending boss on the block. This removed the stress off the oil pipes and allowed the sandwich plate seat as it should giving an oil tight seal. Rob. Edited by - Rob walker on 7 Oct 2001 12:33:32

Dave, Julian has a tonneau for sale for £30. Rob.

Hi I will have the steering wheel off you please ring me on 0117 9239941, many thanks. Rob.

Phil, I have just e-mailed you, I will have the door off you, please ring me on 0117 9239941 Thanks Rob. Edited by - Rob walker on 28 Sep 2001 17:27:08

Hi, Anyone got a pair of half height doors as fitted on the SL,SLR and R500 that they want to sell? Cheers Rob.

I used wire wool and solvol autosol, plus elbow grease looks lovely.

Hi Anyone know what adhesive is used to bond the square mounting blocks onto the screen and exactly what material the screen is made from? Thanks Rob.

My 4:1 system rattled like a bad un. I had to shim the primaries as they enter the collector using some very thin ali ( a bit sardine tin I think ) No more rattles and the exhaust sealant now stays put. Rob.

Arnie, AFAIK there is no knock sensor used on the MEMS equiped K series engines.

WEBCON Alpha sequencial shift light for under 50 squid. Simply connects to the rear of the revcounter. Fabulous bit of kit. Rob.

Alex, The shims are there to space the diff within the chassis brackets centrally. Centrally being the crux, failure to get it central will result in vibrations being transmitted through the car. I recon its better to leave the prop in the car thereby doing away with the need to drain the Gbox, just push it forward slightly and tie it up out the way fit the diff then couple up the prop flange. Thats how I did mine. Don`t forget to replace the blue prop flange nuts and to loctite them on assembley Rob.