Rob Walker

All the lighting bits for the Caterham are available cheap from www.Stafford Vehicle Components Tel 01827 67714

If its only a small star crack, why not repair it yourself with a repair kit available from Halfrauds for 10 quid. The kit is very effective .

Andy, Thats 70mm from the edge nearest the screen not the flat face of the scuttle. As I posted earlier you have no choice in the position of the screen it will only fit correctly in one postion. When you offer up the screen you will understand. Rob

Andy, The positioning of the screen is determined by the profile of the screen and scuttle on the R500 screen this brings the front edge of the screen 70mm from the front edge of the scuttle. I would caution about putting gloop under the screen and pop riveting in place. Shure it will be fixed good and proper but you will never be able to get it off without wrecking the paint job. Why not use 4 X 5mm nuts and bolts with washers and then run a thin bead of clear Silicon along the leading edge when its fixed, this will keep the debris and water from finding its way under the screen and will ensure you can remove it if required. Tried the car today and enjoyed the experience, took me back to my early motor cycling days plus the car feels much more lively after dumping all that weight and having 230 BHP 162 lb ft of K under my right foot.

I have just fitted the R500 screen to my car which previously had a full screen fitted and can con firm that the aeroscreen covers the the wiper pillar holes, screen washers hole . I mounted the screen using two plates and 5mm nuts and bolts bolts through the wiper pillar holes and the two holes for the heated screen wires. I had to extend the the bottom return edge of the aeroscreen by about 10mm to align with the heated screen holes but apart from that no other mods were required. Its now possible to revert back to the full screen should I want to and there are no extra holes in my scuttle.

Its very effective I always wrap my primaries, prolongs the life of the starter motor and reduces the heat soak into the water rail as well as the underbonnet temp. Only down side its itchy stuff so use gloves and a mask.

Adding more wieght Graham ?

You will be lucky.

Sorry, you`ve got to be fast on blatchat sales.

Brian, No its not a dumb question. The long primary 4:1 will give the biggest overall power increase and the 4:2:1 will give the best compromise between peak power and mid range torque. I would go for the 4:2:1 if your budget allows. You will have to enlarge the hole in your side skin though. The short primary 4:1 has been shown to strangle performance even on standard unmodified K`s.

There is nothing to stop you asembling the engine, just leave off the foam baffle, splash plate and oil pickup. Obviously if you are using the Belltank you cannot put the engine into the car without this bit and the special clutch release arm.

Be shure to have it re-balanced once you have removed the teeth. I would copy the teeth configuration of a 1.6/1.8K flywheel.

The ARB is necessary if you do not want to run with very very stiff front springs. One of our club members prefers to run with 375lbs front springs and no ARB. The majority prefer a balance between ARB and sensible spring rates.

I can`t see any reason why you would ever want to lock the engine when changing the starter motor.

Richard, Dave and Karl will be at Emerald its just that they cannot take calls whilst using the Rolling Road as there is too much noise. Leave your message and they will phone you back when they are able to .

If your on a budget or don`t want to spend £1700 plus vat you can save a shed load of money by specing your own oil tank. Its the bell tank and swirl tower that makes up the bulk of the cost. Should be possible to get a fully workable system using the Caterham Gold scavenge pump and sump pan and sorce your own oil tank for aroUnd the £1000 mark.

John I think thats normal as some of the items are not held in stock.

Doesn`t sound right, could be the release bearing has separated from its plastic back plate. Its normal to hear a rumbling of the input shaft which disappears when you depress the clutch but not the other way around sorry.

Graham its not an equal comparison. Your R500 runs with greater clearances on both its mains and big ends and has a fully cross drilled crank , it also has a steel spark erroded rotor within its oil pump, again this runs with greater clearances. In short you will have far greater bleed off of oil pressure when hot.

Sounds about right, when hot at idle 2bar (31psi) and above 3000 rpm 4 bar (62psi ).

Drain your gear box oil first before you withdraw the prop, the seal can be removed with a flat screwdriver or pry bar/seal puller. Are you sure that it is the rear seal thats leaking? Its more usual for the box to be leaking from the speedo drive and the oil blowing back along the box.

In my experience this sprocket can be very difficult to remove. It is usually held by corrosion between the crankshaft and the sintered sprocket. Try a bit of gentle heat on the sprocket together with a soak in plus gas or similar. Then a three legged pulley drawer or a lever bar should shift it, trouble is the only bit you can pull against is the pressed steel rim which easily distorts. The answer is apply some coppa slip on reassembley for next time. I caution you not to start banging at it with a hammer.

Steering wheel now sold sorry.

260mm leather Racetech Steering Wheel standard fit on SL & SLR for sale, £35 its yours. Rob Tel 0117 9239941 (Bristol).

Yup a big diference. IMO the 18mm is used to stiffen cars fitted with the softy 140Lb front springs.