Rob Walker

Arnie, Its not proven that there is any advantage over the Direct to head TB. Dave Walker ran a K motor on the QED dyno with direct to head TB`s fitted with the butterfies and spindles removed and compared the max power output to a standard unmolested set and there was no difference. Conclusion is that the butterfly and spindle has little if any effect on max power produced. What is also worth consideration that on part throttle the roller barrels perform much worse than the butterlies and spindles due to greater airflow disturbance. So unless the roller barrels are cheapo I would go for the DTHTB`s. As to the 1.8 K stuff Caterham is selling off , the only problem is its all standard stuff the only bits that might be of use in a moderately tuned K would be the crank and thats marginal IMHO.

The cable will last much longer if 30mm is cut off the threaded boss that enters the peddlebox. If too much of this boss protudes into the peddlebox the cable inner is pulled over the edge of the boss as the peddle is depressed. Be carefull if attempting to cut the boss its easy to damage the inner cable. And before someone points out that you can allow more of the threaded end at the bellhousing to enter the bellhousing and thus shortening the cable, its not possible to get it short enough, what you are aiming for is for your peddle to be where you want it and have the minamum of threaded boss entering the peddle box and of course not fouling the release arm at the other end.

Mark, site 00 at51 would seem to be about right. You could try going down to say 40 and see if starting improves. Also have a look at your cranking enrichment should be around 75 70 65 55 50 46 44 42 40 35 35 35 35. I know this is basic but the tiny foam air filter for the idle control valve is not blocked up is it, its under the inlet manifold ???????? If in doubt remove it and try starting.

Mark, Could be that you have too much fueling at LS0 SS0 what figure do you have ? I have to admit I am not a fan of the air idle control system of controlling the tick over especially on the VHPD it seems to give a terrible rough tick over at best. I also thought that Dave Walker usually got the car idleing then disconnects the AICV , the tickouver is then controlled by ramping up and down the ignition timing ?

Mark, Check that you have the latest crank tooth recognition software installed in your Emerald. If you have then I would look at load site zero speed site zero on your injection map and try increasing the fuelling by 10 points at a time and see if she starts. Mine was always hard to start from cold until this was sorted it now starts first time every time. Its no good me giving you my settings as I run massive 380cc injectors.

Through the Alternator

Looks like a bowl of tripe to me. Don`t give up the day job SvenDriver.

why not buy them direct from SVC Stafford Vehicle Components they cost £90 inc vat and postage. TEL 01827 67714.

Stick with the 13`s and I would go for a 60 profile, I would also go for the 32r in preferance to the 21 as there is little difference in price and they give better performance and last longer. The 21 tends to overheat on trackdays it is afterall designed as a wet tyre!

For those interested the Pagid RS14 pads have a working range 400 to 700C and have a friction level of .45 when cold rising to .50 at 100C and on to .55 up to 700C. If you compare this with the well known and used Mintex 1144 this has .45 at cold but this falls away as the temp rises above 400C and the pad wear rate increases significantly above 300C.

I have just fitted flex hoses. You need male 3/8 UNF at the tee as Chellspeed posted and I used 20 degree offset extended banjos at the caliper end fixed with M10X1 banjo bolts and two 7/16 copper washers. The hose is better cut to suit your car and routing 1.4M is more than enough. I cannot comment yet if this has solved my long standing problem with pad knock off/laytencey/peddle travel but it was certainley easier to bleed the calipers being able to move them around to get the air out.

Split a small length of rubber tube to cover the alt bracket and tie wrap the two hoses down on top of this with two tie wraps. This will hold the hoses and also prevent any chaffing.

Hoopy, I wouldn`t hold your breath on the Hi Spec rear calipers, I have it in goog authority that they have been promising these for years and produced nothing to date. Do not dismiss the Caterham uprated fronts, the vented kit is still lighter than the standard 2 pot solid disc set up. The disc rotors are of a very high quality steel and are very durable not to be compared with some of the £20 crossdrilled disc on offer from a well know supplier. Be aware also that some of the best Pads do not fit the Willwood Calipers. Rob

Hi Bob, I was told that only the very early VHPD cranks were hardened . They were the standard 1.8 cast cranks that were tuftrided in attempt to improve durablity, the later VHPD cranks were standard 1.8. The Caterham sales spec said that the VHPD had a nitro carburised crank, this puzzles me as its not possible to nitride a cast crank. Give PTP a ring with the part no. I would stick with your standard crank you won`t have any trouble unless you go above 200 bhp and 8000rpm. Rob

trailor now sold thanks.

Single axle trailor to fit a Seven for sale:- Bed size 5ft3ins X 10ft6ins Overall size 6ft8ins X 14ft10ins Heavy duty 1800 KG tow hitch Brand new Heavy duty jockey wheel Heavy duty 1400 Kg braked axle unit Brand new 145R X 10 8 ply reinforced tyres Heavy duty loading stabilizers. 5ft steel loading ramps Spare wheel The trailor is in very good condition and fits a widetracked and standard Seven perfectly,It tows very well and is slightly smaller than the popular Minno,it has just had a full overall including the brakes, The Bed is constructed out of folded 5mm mild steel sheet formed into two channels and has a 4in section rolled steel channel A frame . It is finished/painted with red oxide primer then Aluminium paint. I am looking for £375 for the trailor, Tel 0117 9239941 for more details Edited by - Rob walker on 17 Jan 2003 16:17:59 Edited by - Rob walker on 17 Jan 2003 16:55:33

Could be a stuck cam follower, whip the cam cover off and look for a clearance under the heel of the cams as you rotate the engine by hand. hydraulic followers should show no clearnce, if you find a gap thats your duffer.

1.5L if its absolutely empty, if its a refill without having been drained off the car I would recon on 1.4L

Thanks Guy`s

Nig, You may well have a sticker congratulations. however I find it hard to believe that they ran your engine, filled it with coolant and oil etc then drained out what they could after the Dyno run then left it corrode until it was installed. Why would they go to all that trouble and expense what would be the purpose, it is after all a fairly standard engine and its not even possible for them to tweek the mapping with the MEMS.

Nig, You may well have a sticker congratulations. however I find it hard to believe that they ran your engine, filled it with coolant and oil etc then drained out what they could after the Dyno run then left it corrode until it was installed. Why would they go to all that trouble and expense what would be the purpose, it is after all a fairly standard engine and its not even possible for them to tweek the mapping with the MEMS.

Jon, the 36 lbft preload that I refer is for the RRT modded ZF. Unmodded they are 55-60lbft, the AP suretrack was about 16 lbft and the quaiffe 10lbft . These are only guidelines not to be considered as accurate Phil Stewart put them all in the vice with a dummy driveshaft in on side and a torque wrench on the other and showed me the various torques as an aid to help me understand how the varius type worked.

Non of the road SLR`s that I have seen have been bench or dyno run. Running in periods seem to be a personal choice. I favour using a lower spec non synth oil for the first 100 miles say Comma Lite then 500 on part synth Comma Euroilite then onto fully synth to complete the 1000. Gradually increasing loads and revs as the miles increase.

Its makes good sense to replace the entire clutch, the reason being the the AP uprated clutch has a much lighter cover plate and there is little point in replacing your flywheel for a lighter one and then fitting the heavy old standard clutch cover this is defeating your objective. Its also very bad practise to refit a part worn friction plate onto a new flywheel, it would never bed in correctly and will not transmit the torque that it should. I would also replace the CRB at the same time.

The sump gasket is a Caterham special IIRC £27. The stock Rover is a rubber gasket with brass inserts at its fixing points and will not fit the cast caterham sump. Sorry no cheap wat out other than reuse.