Rob Walker

Come on guys save yourself 50 quid on the new price from Caterham. Rob

For sale Caterham cast aluminium wet sump pan, windage plate, and oil pickup pipe all in good condition £100

For sale Caterham Bilstein ride height adjuster kit (4 ) includes spanners all in as new condition £125.

For sale as new pair of wind deflectors only used a couple of times £25.

T E Stone 82 West St, Old Market , Bristol Tel 0117 955 5144 very helpfull.

I got my pipe flaring tool from machine mart £17 works fine. Caterhams do not have mild steel brake lines fitted its a Copper Nickle alloy I forget the trade name for it.

Jerry the answer is Yes.

Jerry your getting mixted up with the main oil rail gallery plate/headbolts, removing the head bolt torque allows the block to distort. There is no problem removing the sump.

Aren`t they just shortened Seirra shafts. These are available at most scrappies for £25 .

If you take the sump off you can gain access to the bottom of the bellhousing anything that has dropped in can be retrieved through this method.

Simon, I am affraid I fitted them without really thinking about the poundages/load just hoping Piper knew its stuff. I have the double springs fitted and can confirm that its hard to even turn the cam pulleys with a spanner. I was also advised to fit the steel spring caps to be safe.

Simon, I remember measuring the standard springs at Dave Andrews place. What you also have to bear in mind is that the springs are under 15mm of preload before the follower is depressed a further 11mm by the cam at full lift. The high rate springs are coarsley wound and having fewer turns with thicker wire gives you the extra clearance between the turns. I take your point about the poundage though, why use more than is absolutely necessary ??????????? Rob Edited by - Rob walker on 24 Feb 2003 16:48:10

Fred mine were part number 76101 and 76102 VX /SLR race wingstays

Do not be tempted to use Silicon fluid in your Seven. Sure it does not absorb water but moisture will get into your calipers and master cylinder, with conventional fluid the small amount of moisture will be absorbed into the fluid slowly degrading its boiling point. However with silicon the moisture can lurk in the calipers in small droplets and when you work the brakes hard these droplets will boil at 100c and expand rapidly into steam. Its not uncommon for total loss of braking and even small explosions using this suff. From my own experience the silicon fluid has a thicker viscosity than standard fluid and this makes bleeding the system even more difficult than normal. Its also very difficult to rid your system of silicon fluid once you have put it in. If you want a good high performance fluid try Castrol SRF its expensive but less hydroscopic than most other high performance fluids.

I don`t know for definate but will know within the next week. Tis remotely possible that my existing rad will be replaced under warrenty or repaired. Rob

22 PSI hot.

Looks like you have the wrong ones Fred. The correct VX/SLR race stays have thinned down/reduced section tube where the tyre wall is closest. You have airbrakes.

Steve, You are wrong the sliding portion of the caliper moves as the pads wear, this then stresses the brake pipes. So when you put your foot on the brake the pipe is pulled outward, and when you take your foot off the pipe will act like a spring and unsettle/pull the sliding portion away from the disc. bear in mind we are only talking half a mm at most but its enough to give you a nasty peddle. The other potential long term consequence of this is the eventual work hardening of the brake pipes and possible failure.

Brake pads burnt out in two trackdays?????????????/ If this is true then you are using the wrong type of friction material. Try going up a heat range ie if your on Mintex 1144 go to 1155 then 1177. Or better still some Pagid RS 14`s. Changing your oil after two track days 200miles is totally over the top unless you are using rubbish oil. A good quallity synthetic will last you 5000 miles plus Rob

Tony, I have e-mailed you, can I have first refusal. Rob

The washed out pink wire is left free at one end, its the aerial for the radio receiver part of the immobilizer.

ITG one manufacturer that I contacted re the use of these socks advised against there use unless there was no alternative. They said that they mucked up the airflow over the bellmouths.

Nick & Jon Rather than go to all the trouble of removing the scavenge pickup pipe to drain the remaining oil from the sump I find its much easier to remove the scavenge pump drive belt and wind the pump round by hand with one finger in one of the large holes in the pulley. This effectively removes all the oil from the sump usually about 3/4 L. Edited by - Rob walker on 9 Feb 2003 20:11:32

The Emerald will come loaded with some popular maps and you could ask Karl or Dave to include one that is known to be correct for your car.

You are correct the 1.6 and 1.8 K heads are the same. I cannot see any reason why the roller barrels would not work equally well on both a 1.6 or a 1.8. In both cases the inlet ports will need opening up in order that they align with the TB bores. THe VHPD and VVC heads will align without much fettling. IMO opinion and having sucessfully tuned both the 1.6 and 1.8K the 1.6 makes a much nicer smooth free revving engine being square.