Rob Walker

I am well aware that there is a vacuum created when running sealed but why would oil be blown out of the head ???????????. I run with a 1.5mm restrictor in one of the cam cover vents the small amount of air that is drawn in is also filtered. This allows air in whilst running but more importantly allows air in on shut down to prevent the seals from being distorted when the oil pressure has fallen away.

I fitted mine with a one way directional poper on the top front corner, convientional poper on the bottom front corner then two of the flexible fastener strips with popers that fasten inside the car as per the full doors. This allows the occupants to get into the car easily then fit the half door, getting out is also much easier.

Still looking for a pair of driveshafts to fit a De Dion Caterham.

Nig, If your running with the gold scavenge pump then I think your wasting your time as there is only a negative pressure within the engine unless your piston rings are shagged and you are getting blow by.

As a matter of interset all the synthetic oils are made from SAE 30 mineral oil base stock.

MTL is the top choice but its expensive and hard to get hold of. Castrol Syntec is also a GL4 spec and works well in the 6 speed and is available from Halfords.

Tor, There should be no confusion with the input shaft the 1400 K`s came with a longer shaft and with some standard cranks this needed to be shortened by 16mm. This also applies to people that have fitted aftermarket steel cranks as due to cross drilling for oilways the hole in the end of the crank that accomodates the spigot bearing has had to be made shallower.

Phil Stewart is in Shoreham which is off junction 4 off the M25. Tel 01959 525105 Top bloke highly recomended.

Mike , if you are running with 205 60 13 tyres the 3.92 diff is the best ratio. I run with this and a Phil Stewart modded ZF LSD, recon its spot on. Edited by - Rob walker on 5 Apr 2003 09:19:18

Nice wheels in good order someone will be happy.

For sale 5 Revolution 4 spoke Wheels ITAL PCD 13"X 6J one pair fitted with 185 60 13 SS compound AO32R with 4mm of tread remaining the other pair 205 60 13 S compound 2.5mm tread remaining ( Yokos 32`s have 5mm of tread when new). The other wheel has a wood tyre fitted Dunlop or sonmething. £200 ono. If your interested call Tony Thorpe on 01275 845109. He is also selling a very nice big valve crossflow head which gave him a healthy 155bhp. Rob

Wow its a really difficult job to fit a silencer, must have taken all of 5 mins.

I would agree with Peter if you are getting a lot of oil into your passenger footwell that would indicate an oil leak from the gearbox, this may not smell like hypoy because few of the new gearbox oils do. If it is clean oil without the smell of petrol again suspect the gearbox. Could simply be that its been overfilled and the excess is being blown out of the breather at high revs. I run with the modded breather and have never had this problem. The crankshaft rear seal is another problem. IMO this seal is deformed by running the engine sealed which creates a vacuum when running with the high capacity (gold) dry sump scavenge pump. When the engine is running all is well because the oil pressure pushes the seal against the rotational surface of the crank. However on shut down of the engine this vacuum remains long after the oil pressure has gone and this is when the crank rear seal can be pulled in. Resulting in a small oil leak when the car is stood without running visible at the mating faces between the engine block and Belltank. I have tried running vented to atmostphere and the problem goes away. I am presently running with a filtered vent to my cam cover which has a small 1.5mm restrictor hole in its airway, this seems to work well. I advise you to check your gear box oil level, its a large grub screw located half way up the gear box on the right hand side of the 6 speed Box. You will need a 10 mm cut down allen key to withdraw it.

Why not cut away the existing box and make it repackable. All you need is a local fabrication shop to roll you up a sleeve out of Ali that will fit over the ends of the existing box. The sleeve can be held in place with self tapping screws, save yourself £300.

V7 SLR you are not totally correct in your answer some 1400 and 1600 SS were supplied with higher lift and longer duration cams and solid lifters. These were mainly for the race cars but a few were supplied for road use.

I have surplus to requirements 5 off Ford steel 13 X 5J Wheels. In as new condition, perfect for someone building a trailer. Free with a donation to NTL. Could bring along to Llandow this week end.

Chris, I have just fitted the Ali AVO`s and had the same concerns about the grub screws. However when I removed one of the grub screws I was pleased to see that there was a Silicon Rubber plug between the the grub screw and the threaded damper body, only light pressure on the grub screw is necessary to lock the platform. Mine better not start leaking either !!!!!!!!!!! Rob

Tor, The current best liner option that is on the market is that offered by Scholar Race Engines. They require your block and machine it to fit their uprated thick walled liners. Machined with a flat on one surface and are butted together, they then heat the whole assembley and plateau hone it whilst under a torque plate. Costs £300 plus vat. They are also doing a mono block liner that will allow a capacity increase to 1900cc for £650. Rob Edited by - Rob walker on 23 Mar 2003 09:02:32

You should also consider that the race SLR will have a very hard suspension set up that will be unsuitable for the road, sintered race clutch,

If its an ex SLR race car then you will need, Lights, handbrake which means replacing the rear brakes,Speedo, SVA kit, Cat exhaust system. number plates, you may also want to replace the foam bag fuel tank as this cannot be used with a fuel gauge.

Jerry, Don`t use stainless. You want normal high tensile steel.

Jerry, I have just looked into this, the nearest bolt that is off the shelf is a 6" long 1/2" UNF, you will need two nylocks and some 1/2" thick washers as spacers. Rob

also dipstick included... Rob

Why not push a length of wire down the pipes to check for any obstruction. Strip a suitable length of domestic lighting cable single .75 to 1.5 mm square should do the trick available at any DIY store. I hate to tell you this but its not necessary to cut any brake line to install a limiting valve. The normal method is to disconnect the pipe to the rear connection on the master cylinder this now goes to the OUT port on the limiting valve, then you need a 300mm length of copper pipe making up with flares and male coupling on each end this runs from the master cylinder to IN port on the limiting valve. Thats it.

Sold to Graham