Rob Walker

K series 85Kilos inc alt and flywheel.

Len, Simon Tidmus " Tiddy 1 " did not buy his dampers from you. They are AVO steel Pro-Race type 2:1 B/R therefore not Freestyle Units.

Dave It is difficult to reach the correct torque by holding the engine in gear and with all the brakes on because the springs in the clutch friction plate compress and also the clutch plate can slip. The correct method is to use a flywheel locking tool, easy to make out of a bit of 5mm thick steel plate.

There are many other factors other than simply flow rate to consider when choosing an injector. Impedance, Spray pattern and fequency that they can be switched on and off. If your considering Bosch injectors then try their technical Help line . In general if you want high capacity injectors then look for injectors off a turbo car. The reason being that the injector is being fired into say 1 bar pressure within the manifold and therefore requires a greater capacity over its NA counterpart to flow the same amount of fuel.

Colour coding is no indication of capacity or flow rate. It is specified by the customer and Bosch will produce whatever they are asked to produce, so don`t think all dark green or bright red injectors are high flow they are not.

IMO the harmonic damper is only aimed at engines that spend most of their life running at constant revs and loading " Motorway use" This type of use has little or nothing in common with how a Seven is used. Also when an engine is tuned and fitted with a lightweight steel crank and rods and flywheel the natural resonace that this harmonic damper was designed for will have changed and therefore it will be of little or no use. But the main reasons for me dumping mine was that my K was built with use at higher revs in mind this necessitated fitting a smaller crank pulley in order to reduce the alternator revs.

After removing the brake caliper and undoing the castle nut on the end of the stub axle the whole hub asembley should pull off the stub axle. The bearings should come off along with the hub.

They are the same as the fronts . Should be 228mm but a lot of the later supplied discs are 231mm.

I ran for two years 187bhp out of my 1600K with the standard pistons without any problems whatsoever. I used a 7800 rev limit IIRC the engine covered 8000miles and numerous track days. A good all round cam is the 740 grind also known as BP285.

25mm round indicators offa Fiat Barchetta or Coupe mounted in the side of your headlamps. They cost £8 each.

Mark, I don`t know about the mains other than if you have a crank that was the biggest grade of main shell you could go down to the next size a medium (blue) shell or the smallest. The Standard OE Rover shells being available in three graded sizes. There are .25mm undersized shells available for the Big Ends however. These are the uprated Vandervall VP2 shells and are available from either QED or Caterham.

The flow rate is as Mike has posted and this is at 3bar nominal pressure.

Griff, The bias valve should be fitted into the rear circuit. With the valve screwed fully in gives least restriction and maximum rear braking. Not sure were you got the 10% loss in braking from ??? When the valve is screwd fully out giving most restriction this will only reduce the restriction to 95% giving 5% rear line pressure. This is designed in safety margin to prevent the rear brakes being unwittingly turned completey off. I would not fit a valve into the front circuit.

Anyone know why Caterham has seen a need to change the front calipers again????????? sounds like APITA having to unbolt the caliper to remove the retaing clips.

Give Jules Holloway a ring he had his SVA done near Bristol 01454 299424.

I have been advised that fitting a limiting valve in the front circuit is dangerous. Something to do with hysteresiss and this can hold on the front brakes slightly after the peddle pressure is removed. Mine is fitted in the rear circuit and works very well.

I have recently fitted uprated rear brakes on my car and have the listed parts for sale. 228 mm Diameter rear discs with very little wear Girling Claw Calipers complete with a good set of pads Hubs and bearings De Dion Ears Brake pipes All the above are in tip top condition and off my 1997 car and I want £135 for the lot, I may split but will try to shift the whole kit first. Tel 0117 9239941 or e-mail Walker.Amoako@virgin.net Rob Edited by - Rob walker on 1 May 2003 00:21:49

Using high revs before the oil has warmed up. The pressure release valve seems unable to cope and I have seen pressures up to 7 bar on my car. Not good for the crank seals.

On all but a very wet track with standing water the 21s will overheat. The 32 is better in damp and dry conditions. I use 17 psi front and 16 psi rear on the road any more and the 21`s just wear rapidly in the middle.

Dave I am surprised you don`t know . Simply jack up the rear remove the wheels position a suitable block of wood against the de dion ear and bash it with a sledge hammer. This effectively removes the factory set 20` toe in and improves reverse turnin.

Yoko advise 22 PSI hot. Start with 18 PSI cold and you won`t be far out.

There is no doubt that some ducting must help with the problem however its never going to be possible to cool the rear of the pads and thrust face of the piston. I am told that Performance braking market a Mica shim that can be fitted between the brake pad and the piston. Mica is an extremely poor conductor of heat and as such should prevent all lot of the heat build up getting into the fluid. I think the shims are about 1mm thick . Could be worth a try along with some ducting.

Gosh who dug up this old thread its more than a year old ? However still valid. Since posting the thread last year I have done a lot of research into the rear brake set up. I stuck with the Girling Claw Calipers until the last Llandow day March 2003 and that was the final straw for me. I had taken advise from a very well known race team and a brake specialist who both advised me to go Pagid RS14 pads all round, uprated master cylinder, brake proportioning valve in the rear circuit, flexible rear brake lines and finally strip and clean the entire system and refill with Castrol SRF. In addition I noted that my discs were fouling the inside of my calipers when hot so these were reduced to gain clearance. The result excellent fade free braking effort with good feel from both cold and hot on and off the track but sadly after a few reasonably quick laps the spongy peddle returned and the brakes needed bleeding yet again. I have formed the view that I am wasting my time with these calipers as they were never intented for this type of extreme use and as a result will never be up to the job. The piston has a large flat face that is in direct contact with the back of the hot pad, its made of chrome plated cast steel and readily transmits too much heat ito the caliper. Behind the piston inside the caliper is the handbrake mechanism this traps a small amount of fluid between the hot inside face of the piston and the locating plate for the handbrake mechanism. This fluid gets very hot and cannot convect this heat easily throughout the rest of the fluid in the caliper body resulting in localised boiling and the gas produced gives the spongy peddle and is very difficult to bleed it out without inverting the caliper. IMO fitting the Pagid pads into the Girling Claw Calipers was bad advise and has in fact made things worse, sure they give excellent bite but the extra heat that they create causes problems. I am currently fitting uprated rear brakes and will report on my brakes after Cadwell on the 6th May. Rob SvenDriver giving me advise whatever next, you cheeky Monkey!

Tony, I recently changed to 1.9" ID springs and purchased them from Merlin. I asked before buying if I could return them if I had problems with ride height etc. They said no, the reason being that the the 1.9" springs are bought in as specials and are not stock items. They have exchanged 2.25" ID springs for me in the past without a problem. So I think your request may fall on deaf ears. They are not known as " Miserable Motorsport" for nothing.

Nig Like I said I don`t see the need for the valve. Just make sure you filter the air being sucked in. I found that running with the cam vent fully open resulted in an increase in oil consumption a greater amount of oil mist being blown out of the vent on top of the swirl tower. IMHO the restrictor is the why to go. 1.5mm seems about right. Edited by - Rob walker on 11 Apr 2003 09:14:22