Rob Walker
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Everything posted by Rob Walker
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No need to mount the AP two pots at 3 or 9 oclock they do not get hot mounted in the top mounted position. I had heat indicators on my calipers on Le Sept last year and it was hot. The caliper did not get hot enough to give a reading on the indicators so less than 100C. My previous seirra calipers with pagid rs14 fitted boiled SRF fuild in about four laps of Donnington.
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Roger Yes Arch use the bronze arc welding technique on the new chassis and yes its similar to tig welding but with a nickle/brass wire. It may be that when making any repairs its less of a risk of damaging electronic equipment such as ecu`s and data logging?instrements that they play safe and use gas on some repairs. Horses for courses
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Roger, Brazing is heating of the parent metal and rod until the brass brazing rod melts onto the heated area, usually using oxygen and acetaline, very slow puts a lot of heat into the area being brazed and the borax flux used needs removing before any painting/powder coating. Bronze welding as per the caterham chassis is welding by electric arc providing the heat source, very quick and causes only the minamum of heating of the parent metal. Result a strong , ductile joint with minamum distortion. It also looks neat as the the bronze flows readily arount the joint.
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ring Bosch technical ask for simon thomas 01895 878008
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They are now identified by a coloured disc that sits between the pinion bearing and the cast ali body of the rack, purple is the uprated 22% don`t know the other colour codes sorry.
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Buffing wheel/polishing set from Machine Mart about £20. Fits onto a bench grinder
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With 4:2:1 offerings from Raceline at £650 and Minister £985 both plus the dreaded vat anyone know what are the pros and cons of each system, of particular interest is problems with engine bay diagonals. The engine is the 2.3 and going into a new Caterham standard chassis duratec spec.
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Yes Keith I will be at Silverstone all being well.
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16 to 17 psi.
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Fit a geared starter motor, brise or trent.
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I have found Farndon very good to deal with and have run one of their cranks for three years, I have also used their engineering services. Having visited Doug Kiddie`s factory I would not agree that Farndon are a much bigger company it looked the other way around to me.
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Graham, Expect a call from Tom hood regarding your gearbox, I have advised him to contact you soonest. Rob
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Graham, Can I have first refusal on the box please. Rob
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Sorry Tim, I should have remembered your over in Ireland, I remember sending a steering wheel over to you. R&R are tad inconvient for you.
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Phil Stewart will only charge you £75 labour to strip,clean and rebuild the box. if it needs a syncro they are about £30 again Phil can supply or CC Parts. As the syncros are brass on the 6 speed I doub`t you will see any discolouration. What you should be looking for is wear or damage.
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If its really bad and you don`t want for fork out £400 for a Carcoon. Make a wooden frame big enough for the car to drive in and cover the frame with builders polythene the stuff is called visquine used under concrete as dampproof membrane you could staple the poly sheet to the wood frame. Then run a small dehumidifier inside the poly chamber your car should not deteriorate.
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If you have tried the oil then it sounds like you have a duff syncro ring on 2nd. I would seek the advice of Phil Stewart of R&R 01959 525105.
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Caterham Parts dept sell the Farndon R500 crank from stock.
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Swings and roundabouts. Ones very light giving low inertia with superior oil ways. The other is more heavily counterbalanced and should produce a smoother engine that will last longer. In short both are very good and will do the job, I have the fully crossdrilled Farndon as fitted in the R500 in my latest engine.
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Sounds like you have the wrong oil in the box. You need a GL4 lubricant the popular choice is Redline MTL. Too slippy an oil and the syncro rings won`t grip resulting in difficulty selecting gears 2nd seems to be the worst.
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If the gasket face is in good unmarked condition I would be reluctant to skim the head. In any case .010" is not going to make a lot of difference to the C/r. On the first K head that I ported I did not skim the head following work unshrounding the valves and cleaning up the combustion chambers. It was a standard head fitted with 29.5mm inlet and 26 mm exhausts, 285M or 740 cams and standard pistons on a 1600cc it made 186bhp. The engine is pictured LF and on Dave Andrews web site. The head was later sold to Dave Jackson who fitted 1227 cams and accralite pistons to increase CR it made a stonking 206 bhp out of 1600cc. Dave won the 2003 L7 speed championships with this engine.
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Not trying to be harsh Mav, sorry if I came over that way. Ment say that exact settings of the successfull are usually a closely guarded secret and are subjective in any case the best one can hope for is some good samaritan point you in the right direction. I have to say that this has not been my experience. Dave is one of the good guy`s and will no doub`t offer genuine help.
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You don`t always need to skim the head after porting. It depends on what pistons you are running ie the HC Accralites give more than enough compression without skimming. Just be warned you cannot put the metal back.
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Doesn`t look good to me, I would drill out the rivets from the inner cockpit panel in the area near the weld and check if the chassis welding has failed. I cannot see any reason why the ali side skin would metal fatigue and crack if the welding of the chassis was sound. Sorry.
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Simon, When I asked a well known race team a similar question I was politely to to P*** off . Why tell the world the secrets of your success, also some competitors will deliberately tell you duff info and send you down the wrong path.
