Rob Walker

Halfords 4 year stuff is the same as Comma Cold Stream, made from the same 3m product "triguard". Edited by - Rob Walker on 11 Mar 2005 08:41:30

Rik, I think Dave Jackson used my map to run his 1.9 in. Dave walker or Karl should be able to send you a copy or you are wellcome to come to my garage and I will install my map . Rob

I don`t know whats out of what Ford but the long input shaft is 206mm and this is cut down by 13mm to fit the VX and K series that run with the aftermarket steel crank. The short input shaft is 174mm this is used by Raceline on their BGH gearbox`s and there own short bell housing which then allows the engine to be moved 18mm aft.

Uprated ones are recomended for engines with high output. I had three standard ones fail on my K. QED can supply the uprated bolts at about £6 each ouch!

The standard solid discs will not fit as they differ in that the uprated has a machined undercut in the inner face of the flange that accomadates the black anodised ali spacer. It would be possible to have this machined from a stock disc if you have the wll and the equipment.

0.010" inlet and 0.012" exhaust is mid range. I have just fitted the Kent D-TEC 35 cams which are 280 degrees and the base circle of the cams was machined the same as the stock cams it was therefore no surprise that the clearances were correct with no need to re shim.

0.010" inlet and 0.012" exhaust

V7 what are you on about. The SLR spun rims are made from thinner gauge ali than the MB`s IIRC its 0.5mm thinner. Some of the SLR rims have a rolled out edge to add strength is that what makes you think they are thicker?????? Edited by - Rob Walker on 23 Feb 2005 09:00:56

I would advise you send tham back to Titan Motorsport ( 01480 474402 )for overhaul, the last thing you want is for them to stick wide open.

If it occurs about 3500rpm when labouring the engine its quite normal its an induction resonance. Change gear and rev harder! Edited by - Rob Walker on 13 Feb 2005 09:29:54

Drill out the rivets and remove the cover of the housing inthe rear wheel arch, the inertia reel can then be removed and stored or binned.

I put the hubs in the oven 100C for about 20mins and the bearing outer races in the freezer the bearing races then just drop into place.

.0015" liner protrusion is Ok and will not be causing your problem. I would check the head gasket face for being true ie not more than .002" from flat. If thats ok try a new uprated head gasket and see if the problem is cured. If not it could be a crack in the block allowing oil to seep whilst under pressure from the front oil way drilling that rises up the front of the engine to supply the head. I have had this problem and seen it on other K`s. If this is found to be the problem its possible to sleeve this drilling with 6mm ali tubing. Rob

Timbo, Strickly speaking its not the Piston that determines a floating little end its the small end of the rod. The Omegas can be fitted to the stock rod using an interference fit or you can hone out the little end and have it floating. The stock rods do not look very strong especially on the longer stroked 2.3 IMHO. Rob

Rob, I have the Ali AVO`s on my car there is a plastic plug at the bottom of the platform locking thread which is squashed against the ali body by the steel allen grub screw. The plastic plug is to protect the delicate ali damper body. You are correct its only necessary nip up the grub screws if you over tighten you risk deforming the damper body.

Jingers. sorry no. my car is the older TDDI and I have no trouble starting or rough running it simply cut out for a fraction of a second when accelerating twice and then died ( engine would idle only no throttle response) after driving a further 30 miles. Looks like a trip to the dreaded Ford dealer is on the cards Yuk!

Definately the glow plug light. I have read that this is a doubles as a fault indicator, however after going through my workshop manual about 10 times I still cnnot find the info? Thanks Rob

You should not use stainless. I would advise you to get the correct bolts from Barnby as he had a problem with bolts breaking on his early rims and fitted a special grade of bolt from 2002 onwards, you need these Tel 01634 711801. These are for the rims you bought off Ebay are they Ok? Your not selling off the slicks by any chance????/ Rob

Joining the motorway put my foot down and felt two big gaps in the engine pulling and the engine preheater light flashed during the two cuts. Drove another 30 miles and the engine cut again but I lost all throttle and coasted onto the hard shoulder the engine was still idleing, but no throttle and the preheater light was on. I stopped and restarted the engine and its run fine over the last two days? The car is the TDDI , its was over half full of fuel, I had been driving for 3 hours so it was at the correct operating temp. Can anyone offer an explaination or help ? Many thanks Rob

Alex wong has one it went wong. Dave Edmunds also runs one.

with a grand to spend piddling about with verniers or a laminova is not going to set the world on fire put some hotter cams in.

I think you hear what you want to hear.

Using high quality oil 3000 miles road or track or at the end of each season IMO. I don`t like leaving the car over the winter with dirty oil in.

Stu, I fit the head and torque it down. I do not fit the cams or carrier I drop one cam in at a time and measure the clearance on each two inlets or exhausts and allow upto .002" for the cam to run within the journal. So measure your clearance if its .005" on an inlet then add .002" giving you .007" you can then take the last .001" off on the oil stone giving you the recomended .008". It has been my experience that if you grind your shimms spot on with the cams resting within the journals of the head, when you fit the cam ladder all the clearances will be too large as the cams find their natural resting position within the oilfilm within the camm ladder/head journals. There are those out there that will not approve of my methods stating that the only proper way is to take the clearances with the cam ladder torqued then take it all apart again repeatedly make adjustments then reasemble. IMO this method is a sure way of ending up with a bent /distored cam ladder.

Mike, I would not risk driving the car back on salted roads. It will mark almost straight away and the corrosive mix will also get into places that you cannot clean. Borrow an enclosed trailer. As regards washing it and cleaning it no special treatment is necessary I wash mine with warm water and non silicon car shampoo and rinse then wash leather dry. The ali only needs polishing twice a year. Belgin Ali Polish seems to be the best stuff. Edited by - Rob Walker on 28 Jan 2005 17:29:43