Rob Walker

I am pleased to report that I have today sucessfully SVA`d a 2.3 Duratec producing 280bhp/210 lbs Ft torque at the Taunton VOSA test center. We had no problems with emissions or noise despite the engine running 280 degree cams with 11.30mm lift and four port throttle bodies with an 8 injector setup. This should be wellcome news to anyone building/contemplating a powerfull duratec engine for their seven. Rob Edited by - Rob Walker on 23 Jan 2006 14:10:18

Arnie, The semi circular hoops are common to both the SD and Caged. The only sure whay to tell which type you have is if the four fixings each side run roughly inline then you have the Caged if the two front fixings are about 2" higher and the bottom tube has a set in it then you have the SD.

I have never known a problem with cast ali wheels work hardening, I should worry about something else.

Bob please put me down for one ZF LSD unit. Cheers Rob

Arnie, I cannot see any big problem fitting the two rear cockpit threaded bushes. Remove the rear inner side panels drop the cage on and fit the two front bolts, then drill through the Ali from the rear cage bushes, wind on the threaded bush with the bolt through the cage and tack the bush to the chassis then remove the cage and finish the weld. Obviously you wont be able to weld around the outer face of the bush but as its only welded to ERW tube it should be more than strong enough. Mig weld should keep the heat localised and not spoil your lovely paint. CF sill protectors will cover any damage in any case. Rob

The later front fixings for the Caged cage are threaded bushes welded into the square top chassis rail under the scuttle not under the rail. The SD cage does indeed bolt through the ali scuttle and is fixed inside the scuttle with a rather flimsy folded steel angle section which is then bolted to the cage and then pulled down onto the two 3/8" fixings that hold the scuttle down. The idea being that the inward protruding threads, 1/2" thick washer and nylock nut sit onto the top chassis rail and would be force against the top chassis rail if the car rolled. Obviously not as strong a fixing as the latest Caged offering. Sorry I do not have any Photos. I have a pristine SD cage in my garage ready to go onto my car, my 2004 chassis is to the latest Arch spec and has the correct bushes to fit the latest Caged cage , I may consider a swop. Rob

Arnie, Two threaded bushes in/through the square top chassis rail below the scuttle behind the sideskin forward of the cockpit each side then two more bushes welded below the round chassis rail that spans the cockpit making four per side. You should have the two forward cockpit bushes as used for the petty strut, the other three each side I doubt you will have. Only the forward bushes are difficult to install as the side skin needs to be removed/peeled back to gain access. Hence why the Safety Devises cage is the best to fit to a pre 2000 chassis. Hope this helps Rob

Gambo. The only cage that will fit your 1995 chassis without major work is the old Safety devises SLR/r400 race cage or the roadsport cage. Your chassis will have the two front threaded bushes you will have to remove the inner cockpit panels and weld in place the two rear threaded bushes the front two fixings are bolted to a angle bracket that sits inside the scuttle fixed by two 3/8 " bolts. The latest Caged offering will need three threaded bushes per side installing, two in the top chassis rail which is a side skin off job and a trip to arch. Rob

Yup highly likely to need cleaning and be re set to fire at the correct pressure. If that does not cure your problem then the injection pump may need and overhaul. Kangarooing sounds like a governor problem to me.

Paul if you are unhappy with the 255bhp and torque it should be easy to swop the cams for something hotter and have it remapped once out of warranty.

The Caterham assembley manual pictures the bolts fitted from the outside and the nylocks plus protuding thread going inwards towards the center of the car however the text says pass the bolt outwards. I always fit the bolt with the nut and protruding thread on the outside giving more clearance with the ali bodywork. Edited by - Rob Walker on 18 Jan 2006 22:14:49

A nice 300 bhp duratec perhaps??????????

Nope you will either have to fit the caterham threaded adapter or put a UNC thread on the gear stick.Nothings is esay is it 🙆🏻

I have always been pleased with Faulkener springs, they do not seem to sag so see no need to pay over the top for the Eibach`s

I think I may have the two bolts that you seek in my garage, finding them is the problem IIRC they are 1/2" UNF about 4" long.

your requirements are almost identical to the two Duratec chassis that I have ordered in the past year. they were based on the R400 chassis, diff mounts strengthened, lowered drivers floor, removable RH engine bay diagonal, short passenger footwells the only biit not applicable to your spec is the modified lower engine bay chassis rail which would only make your installation easier. This chassis also comes with the hydraulic clutch master cyl. You will have to be quick if you want an Arch chassis, may have to beg.

The standard bilstein dampers have several grooves machined into the damper body. These are for the location of the circlip that holds the spring platforn in position. So you will probably need to move the circlip and platform up to the next groove on the damper body and fit the 27mm hexagonal spacers to extend your dampers. If you tap the ali platform it should move revealing the circlip that lives beneath. Fitting the hexagonal spacers can be difficult as the damper top locating eye is loctited onto the damper rod. I would advise you to get caterham to take these off for you unless you have access to a 10 ton press.

The male nipple should be fixed with a lock nut on the inside of the cam cover, just replace with a nut and bolt.

Angus why not just take them to your local Bosch service agent and have them ultrasonically cleaned and flow checked cost is around £60 or get down the local scrap yard.

Alex, if you run with a standard organic clutch you won`t have any synchro problems or cases cracking. Its the paddle and multi plate clutches that wreck syncros as they have no transmission cush springs in the friction plate and are designed to bite with little slip. its the old story you cannot have it always. You certainly don`t want a dog box for road use

There is no specific boot cover that is a perfect fit. The closest is from a 1997 superlight that was fitted with the STANDARD roll bar and no weather equipment . CC can supply.

Alex, For road use the sporting close ratio 5 speeder from BGH would be your best bet. They are cheap,quiet and seem to stand up to 250 bhp ish when mated to the 2.3 duratec. Rob

I. Apollo is not required the Pace tank is well designed to de -aeriate the oil. Unless you spec`d the tank with a boss for the temp sender your struggling. 2. Yes the blue plastic fittings are up to the job they have a taper thread and do not usually leak. 3. I would not fit a laminova in the scavenge line as this reduces flow and can compromise the engine scavenging which is already marginal at high rpm. especially if you have the purple pump. 4. I run with no breathers and the engine sealed/partial vacuum, this aids scavenge less windage and produces more power. I vent the Tank to a catch tank via the top center blue male outlet and blank off the other. Rob Edited by - Rob Walker on 30 Dec 2005 17:11:05

I have seen this before on a couple of high power K engines in both cases it prooved not to be the head gasket but a cracked block in the area around the oil feed to the head. Its worth trying a head gasket replacement first but if oil is still getting into the coolant then suspect the block.

Hi , Anyone know how I can open the near side passenger front door on my wifes Rover 214 si 1996. The solenoid that operates the cenral locking system has failed/jammed/possibly burnt out as its blowing the central locking system fuse. I cannot get the door lock to operate manually by either using the external handle or the internal handle. The manual lock deactivator pull does not operate the lock when pulled. I have contacted Rover who advised to only way to get the door to open is cut through he internal door trim and operate the lock I have gained access through the panel . But how is this done pulling all of the control rods still does not free the lock. Desperate running out of ideas Help please. I cannot get Auto Key locksmiths until next Tuesday. Rob