Rob Walker

Dobuy,The green cossy injectors 0280 155 968 are the correct impedance for the Emerald being a nominal 12 ohms. They are rated at 310g/m at 3.8 bar. Any one know what 310g/m @3.8 bars is in cc at 3 bar? Also anyone know what the stock duratec grey injector 0280 156 010 flows in cc @ 3 bar ?????? Rob

Rob, The one on the left is the latest SKF bearing and carrier looks the correct one from the picture. Don`t like the sound of it not being held in place by the two plastic clips, these should hold it onto the clutch arm.

Englishmaninwales, Yes your missing something.

Paul, No its a bespoke mix for Caterham. Rob

I had a " Caged "one that was 12mm out of alignment with the chassis bushes. This resulted in cutting off the bushes and repositioning to suit the chassis . Nightmare of a job 3 days of hassle.

Wavydave, (1)Because oil putting 4l into a dry sumped engine will result in the oil level being high enough to contact the pistons when the crank rotates (2) if all your oil is in the engine an none in your bulk supply tank then no oil will be fed back to the oil pump and be pumped around the engine until such time that the scavenge pump has been able to shift enough oil into the bulk tank to get above the outlet and feed the engine pressure pump. Rob

Paul the K coolant will be fine. I would run the first 100 miles on cheapo mineral oil Comma lite, this is all the running I would give it as the bore finish is so good,then I would use the Silkolene Pro S 5W 40. The original spec of oil for the engine is 0W 30 so I recon 15W50 is too thick for this engine especially this weather. I am yet to be convinced that Caterham/comma oil is a pukka fully synthetic oil.

WARNING DO NOT PUT 4L INTO THE ENGINE AND CRANK FOR OIL PRESSURE. If you do this you will wreck your engine, oil needs to be in the dry sump bulk tank or bellhousing tank before you crank.

Mark they have now realised their mistake the cossy green 330cc high impedance are now £160 with the fuel rail, still cheap IMO. Dobuy, If your running raceline/jenvey TBs that have a drilling for the injectors I recomend you run two sets of injectors, the stock grey ones in the head and your 270`s in the bodies should work a treat. Also the emerald needs " high impedance injectors greater than 2ohms . Rob

For Sale on behalf of a friend, A complete 1.8K series engine that he had professionaly built to go into his seven but change of circumstances forces sale, spec:- 1800cc block with New Omega Forged Pistons. Standard early type rods Brand new standard crank All new bearings& oil pump Ported VVC Head with standard new valves, Piper285H Cams & Blanking Kit Uprated valve springs and steel retainers Steel ultralite Flywheel new AP uprated clutch new Caterham Roller barrel induction & cream injectors Wiring loom new Caterham Wet Sump pan and pickup new. In short this is a complete package that will drop straight into your seven. It has been assembled professionaly and has never been run. Based on experience I would expect this engine to produce in excess of 200BHP and be nice and drivable on the road. The bargin price for the whole lot is £2950.

Yup the 1400cc has the same prop as the 1800cc R500. The CSR prop looked to have the same joints on the demo chassis. I will get some facts and figures on the prop joints from either Road & Race, Raceline or Chards all of which I have to revisit in the next day or so. Edited by - Rob Walker on 2 Feb 2006 17:54:58

Peter T, " Drivel" I am well aware that a extremely strong prop could be made out of better materials and keep the same or even smaller dimensions. The ends could be machined out of billet steel EN12 and thin walled chrome steel tube used to contect the ends. However this not F1 and these parts are not off the shelf and I am expecting to refurb my prop for cica £100 not £1000`s for a bespoke item. if you know of a cost effective route other than fit HD joints to increase the strength of my prop I would be gratefull for the advise . Smartarse coments are not usefull . Harry, I agree there are loads running out there, however my prop is off my April 2004 car and its only done 5K miles and its worn out despite periodic regreasing and I do not sprint or give it a hard time away from the line. Could be more owners need to have a look at their props before complete failure??????? I don`t know that s why I started the thread. Rob

Dave, There are no CV joints on a caterham prop. I have had the heavy duty hardy spicer joints fitted to my prop but advised its still not strong enough. To make it significantly stronger the bearing carriers or propshaft ends need to be changed to the next size up and stronger tube used to link them together and this makes the ends of the prop 12mm wider as such too big to fit into the tx tunnel. Rob Edited by - Rob Walker on 2 Feb 2006 16:24:53

2kgs sound about right, its only the tube thats CF and that a mere 24" of thin mild steel tubing. Probably only worth considering if you have a long prop .

ITG foam airfilter fits JC50 back plates and is 125 mm internal depth. Will fit either a K ,VX , Duratec or crossflow running either 40/42/45 /48 carbs or throttle bodies and will accomadate up to 100mm trumpets ,Very little use perfect condition still in original bag £40. Rob

Marius, Out of interest I asked about carbon Fiber props and the guy told me that they had been used for years on the Renault Espace and then produced one for me to have a look at, light as a feather. He said they only fail if a stone or debris hits them whilst under load, then they have been known to shatter. Rob

Chards are refusing to guarantee/take any resposibity for the work done on the prop, in their view its unsafe and if I use it I use it at my own risk, suggested fitting two circular hoops in the tunnel either end of the prop to save my legs if it snaps. " Paul Gibb knows about this ". Trouble is if they are right and a stronger prop is necessary there is insufficient clearance within the tx tunnel to get the bigger joints past the tx tunnel tubing/bracing. Rob

Hi, I took my prop to " Chards" a well respected propshaft/driveshaft manufacturer and reconditioner today for overhaul and rebalance. When asked how much power I was putting through the prop he was most concerned ( 230bhp 160 lbs torque). He said that the prop was not designed to ever handle that sort of power and could be unsafe. 150 bhp 100lbs torque being the absolute limit and with the original light duty joints replaced still only 175 bhp 125lbs torque. Anyone know anything about this subject ????????? Cheers Rob Edited by - Rob walker on 2 Feb 2006 14:24:05

If the test center is computerised they will input the vehicle details from the VIN plate and it will be tested whilst on line to the DVLA, sorry there isn`t a hope in hell of it passing emissions without a cat IMO.

H beam can be made lighter and stronger than an I beam made in the same material. This is due its greater section a H vs I. H beam are generally more expensive as they require more machining to produce. Therefore its horses for courses depends on how deep your pocket is and application. Sorry this is not a technical reply. H beam Arrow rods are generally considered to be the best in this country. Rob Edited by - Rob Walker on 1 Feb 2006 09:11:19

For sale a pair of CR500`s 175 X 13 just over half worn ie down to wear indicators , ideal for track day use £30 buyer collects or I can bring them to LLandow or south wales meets. Rob

Rob, To answer your original question which has got lost in this thread, I block off my cam cover vents with a plug of High temp Silicon Sealant, make sure you degrease the vents so it will stick. CC sell neat rubber plugs for the specific purpose. Rob

Rob. Its been my experience that if you simply let the catch tank vent to air under the bonnet especially mounted on the scuttle bulkhead that at slow speeds you can smell the oil vapour discharge as the tank vents. Therefore I have a 18mm ID pipe running from the top of my catch tank discharging below the passenger floorpan, on the end off this pipe I have a foam filter. Rob

Peter may be right air could be sucked back down the scavenge line back from the tank, Rob, I had thought of this possibility and run with a small foam filter on the end of the vent to air coming out of the bulk oil storage tank which I have discharging below the car. I also run with a small micro switch set up against the auto belt tensioner on the scavenge pump, in the event of the belt going AWOL " Peter knows all about this" it puts a large yellow warning lamp on on my dash. This is one advantage of the CC external pump system in that you should have cira 20 seconds to shut down the engine before all the oil is transfered from the bulk tank into the engine. With the Pace fully external system its instant loss of pressure. Rob Edited by - Rob Walker on 31 Jan 2006 10:27:02

Peter, I agree in a properly designed dry sump system the scavenge should have redundent capacity to remove all oil that is pumped into the engine throughout the operating range of the engine. The CC/titan system for the K is compromised in that the two pumps are not linked by a common shaft and both pumps are of differing capacity and operating characteristics. At low revs when the engine is hot ( piston ring gas seal is at its best and crankcase pressurisation is at a minamum) the scavange pump has the overcapacity to suck out all the oil and create a partial vacuum, oil & air are sucked out intermittently at this point the funky Chicken can be heard. I have never heard the funky chicken on either a sealed K or Duratec that runs the fully external three stage pump system driven by a common shaft and having twin scavenge pickup points, presumably the engine breathes more effectively through one of the pick ups when the other is pumping oil Rob