Rob Walker

I have lifted my 2L engine by 7mm. I took particular note of its effect on prop angle and noted that the gearbox output shaft hardly moved and was actually improving the prop alignment. Its not your exhaust catching something when its hot and expanded?

I wonder if a simple external air scoop may be enough to do the job. I am going to have a go making up a GRP scoop that can be attached to the bonnet that will shroud the induction/foam filter.

If you remove the rear crank oil seal it will allow you to clean out any debris/iron filings that may have entered via the flywheel bolt holes in the crank flange

Sorry danny it looks just horrible Edited by - Rob Walker on 30 Apr 2007 22:30:33

swap the crank pulley

Its just a bad design, the bearing sits horizontal and all the road grit water etc sit on top of it . The abrasive grit just laps away at the bearing till its shot. Could be worth cutting a circular bit of plastic to sit on top of the bearing and act as a dust cover or some form of rubber gaitor?.

The bearing material is PTFE, not recomended to oil them or grease them. Just wash out any grit and check for wear.

the bad thing is that they restrict oil flow more than a convientional air oil cooler.

6speedmanual, Dash gauge is in agreement with the temps shown on the live page on the Emerald ECU which uses a different Bosch sensor, I have also used an external IR temperature measuring gun. Oh there is no doubt that its getting hot. Rob

Bazza, Your oil stat will be integral in the sandwich take off plate that will be mounted between your spin on oilfilter and the block, I doubt that CC will supply without a stat in the system on a road car. Rob

Bazza, Thanks thats a funny size I know Mocal make 7 10 13 16 etc going up in threes , recon you may have a 10 row unless its a special. 6speedmanual, I am measuring the bulk oil temp from the oil gallery in the sump imediately before the oil pump. What you have to consider is that yes it is OK to run at say 110C bulk oil temps with good synthetic oils but as we can only measure bulk oil temps this cannot tell what the peak oil temps are at a highly loaded part of the engine such as the big ends the oil temp at that point could be well above the measured bulk oil temp and be breaking down just in the most loaded place within the engine. Roger, I certainly hope it doesn`t slow me down or I will never catch you especially when you change back to slicks. Dobuy, I am interested in your oil cooler system YHM. Rob Edited by - Rob Walker on 25 Apr 2007 08:44:46

Bazza, Do you know the size of the oil cooler that CC have suppied with your kit ie How many rows 13 possibly ?

Danny, I have not seen any high oil temps with the dry sump fitted, this is a problem with the Wet sump. Cruising at about 4000 rpm on the motorway oil temp will rise steadly to well over 100C

Hi, First track day with my new 2L duratec yesterday at Cadwell, the car ran very well but I have a problem with high oil temperatures the car is running with the Raceline wet sump and I was seeing 120C oil temp after 10 mins on track, Coolant temp never got above 90C despite drafting ECR for six laps, air temp was only 15C at cadwell so an oil cooler is required. Anyone fitted one to their duratec, what did you fit and where did you mount it etc. Rob

Aldi give a no quibble 12 month warrenty. if your not happy take it back they will give you a refund no question.

The small hole behind the crank pulley is a blind hole tapped to 6mm for setting the crank pulley at TDC, this cannot weep oil , if cured the leak must be from the front crank seal.

same stuff.

I ve done a few. If its the Caterham bean can type cut off the outside skin with an angle grinder leaving 1" at each end to allow you to fix the new skin. Then get a local fabrictor to roll you up an ali skin. This can then be fixed with blind/sealed pop rivets or you can drill and tap the end caps. I seal the joints with high temp Silicon RTV. Pack with your sound deadening mix of your choice.

My R500 spec k would happly run in 6th gear at 1500 rpm and pull clean to the rev limiter and there was no " hopping and kangarooing "

Why not replace the seals and check the condition of the piston yourself its not difficult.

Silicon is bad news when used between the chassis tubes and the ali skin. The curing agent acetic acid starts off the corrosion job just where you don`t want it. caterham/arch use silkoflex/tiger seal.

Wanted minno shuttle or similar covered trailer. please call Tom Hood on 0117 9731516 and 07974 731842. Thanks Rob

The diff will only throw oil out if it is either overfilled orthe breather tube is fitted the wrong way round. The open flute end needs to face the diff rear cover nothing to do with driving hard.

Duh, After advising you to take it to that rolling road I am also disappointed. Did the engine make the 275bhp and did the torque curve look OK ? Call me 0117 9239941. Rob

Paul, I would test it on the car. You should have a heavy cable from battery +ve to the main +ve terminal on the starter motor and the block should also be connected to the -ve of the battery by a heavy cable. All you need to do is take a thin bit of wire from battery +ve to the actuator (small terminal) and the starter motor should operate. If nothing happens and your battery is fully charged then suspect the pre-enguage solenoid. Rob