Rob Walker
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Everything posted by Rob Walker
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Anyone know where I can buy a spherical joint replacement kit for the top ball joints on my top wishbones? I am aware that freestyle do such a kit but its £195 and I am looking for a more cost effective solution. Anyone done their own DIY kit if so what did you use? What is the thread in the end of the top wishbone 5/8ths UNF bye any chance ????? Rob
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Ivan, If the rear crank seal is not leaking I would leave well alone as they rarely give any trouble. There is no seal between the bellhousing and the gearbox except a small rubber O ring around the selector rod end which exits the front face of the box. these are re-usable with a liberal coating of silicon sealant. Phil Stewart will replace the input shaft seal as part of his overhaul. Rob
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Ivan, Cam seals are very easy to change, simply prize out with a screwdriver and knock a new one in using a large socket that is just smaller than the OD of the seal. They can be changed with the engine in so will not stop you putting the engine back in. Rob
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Chards in Bristol replaced my U/J`s with uprated ones, rebalanced/straightened the prop and repainted it for £80. It had been manufactured .030" out of line.
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" Sorted after visiting the two steve`s", Strange thats not what you reported on this forum , IIRC you were very angry and suggested that they had taken your money after failing to make any noticable improvements. If all is now sorted why are you selling? Edited by - Rob Walker on 7 Nov 2007 17:39:56
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I`m loving it
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Roadsport vs Superlight : (mechanical) differences ?
Rob Walker replied to Slider7's topic in TechTalk
The late Arch S400 & 500 chassis are slightly different as they have no inertia real seat belt mounts/ enclosures under the rear wheel arches and no spare wheel carrier. Also no bracket for the emissions canister. -
Ivan, The flywheel is a direct swap for your exsisting one. You say your planning to fit a racing clutch, by that I hope you mean the AP clutch kit as fitted to the R400&500 ? Do not be tempted to fit a full blown competition paddle clutch or multiplate clutch to your spec of car you will hate it. Be sure to use new flywheel fixing bolts. Rob
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Very interesting Kev, you must be bored down there
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Why not try Jez Coates it was his baby, he is currently working at Arch I understand. Edited by - Rob Walker on 4 Nov 2007 09:13:55
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Ammo, You can get them to fit into the standard chassis 7 there at least two knocking around that I know of. Rob
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Yes I have run them all year, only slight snagg is that the inner edge of the tyre can rub the wingstays under very hard cornering like the ACB10 used to.
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RIF, Without giving too many secrets away, what is your process for manufacturing nose cones and wings, your products look very glossy are they produced using a type of gel/epoxy coated mould or a resin/epoxy rich lay up ? Will this high gloss finish be as durable as the vacuum formed CF that CC used to supply ? Rob
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Stu, If its play onto the crank nose then shim this. If you do not have pukka shim you could cut up a thin steel drinks/beer can, or J&L industrial supplies can supply the proper stuff. I have never seen a K crank toothed pulley that was a decent fit. In practise it will never move when correctly torqued but if your balancing then you will have to shim it up to do a half decent job. Rob
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I think a better solution to holding the scavenge pump pulley would be a short length of threaded studding loctited into the tapped hole in the pumps shaft then secure the pulley with its washer and a nylock nut or wired nut.
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Stu, The last one I did I ended up drilling the toothed crank pulley and inserting a steel dowel in place of the protruding cast keyway. The old boy that does my balancing had refused to balance the assembly with the backlash in the pulley`s Rob
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31st November 2007, have I lost a month
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Slipper man, Your info is out of date, The cosworth CSR engine has no keyway mod nor does the C/R 400 engine. The crank gear wheel that drives the chain that drives the oil pump and cams is clamped by a massive bolt with a special diamond encrusted washer. The clamping force is huge and any keying deemed not necessary. Its also very easy to time up the engine. ECR, If you look at the oil pump shaft it has a slight taper machined on it, the allen bolt pulls the pulley onto this taper. However I have seen several come loose including my own which came off completely. Fortunately I always ran with a micro switch on the belt tensioner that tiggered a warning light on my dash so was able to shut her down before running out of oil. Rob
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Nope its the nut moving
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I keep having a problem with my off side rear hub nut coming loose. The nut is correctly torqued to 200 lb ft and I have even used loctite and it still moves 1/8th of a turn. Anyone had similar problems.
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Bin it Roger.
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New set of 'blue' rear brake pads for use with 4 pot fronts.
Rob Walker replied to The Polisher's topic in For Sale
If these are pagid blues and are for the uprated rear brakes I will take them please. Rob -
Mike, The reason I posted that a brazed joint would be suitable is that we recently visited the Caterham Steel fab factory and I noted that the whole chassis was mig welded apart from any threaded bushes. When I asked why this was I was informed that they brazed all the bushes in to reduce distortion of the thread form by keeping the melting point below that of the steel threaded bush. I have no personal experience of using TIG so would bow to your superior knowledge and experience. Rob Edited by - Rob Walker on 24 Oct 2007 08:56:40
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If you are installing threaded inserts /bushes then brazing is the best option.
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I gave you one and a set of pins have you lost it?
