Rob Walker
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Everything posted by Rob Walker
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Johnty, You have personal experience of running with an accusump ??? Please fill us in on the details. Rob Edited by - Rob Walker on 5 Apr 2008 10:45:21
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Stu, I cannot see any reason why it would not fill up the apollo and pressurize on start up if you fit an accusump of sufficient capacity, 2pint 4pint & 6 pint are available. The apollo only drains down to equalize a level with the oil in the sump, thats about 1L at most . I would fit the 4 pint accusump. I have no experience of running one personally, but know of people that have and only had postive things to say about them. I considered fitting one to my Duratec but the Raceline wet sump is such a good design it has not been necessary Rob Rob
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If you have a mechanical gauge then you do not have a sender unit and if its showing a drop off in pressure when cornering then I would believe it and do something about solving the problem. Yes the accusump is very easy to install its just a sandwich plate take off fitted under your oil filter then mount the cylinder on your scuttle. you can also add electrical solenoid valves that operate when you turn on the ignition, this instantly pressurizes the system.
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Wild Bill, Apart from fitting a full dry sump system the only other alternative is an Accusump, this is a cylinder that has a piston and spring in it. When the engine pressurises it pushes the piston down the cylinder against the spring, if there is a drop in pressure the spring forces oil back into the system. Simple & clever idea, Merlin sell them circa £200. They are popular with the K Elise boy`s. I am surprised that you are noticing such rapid changes in oil pressure as the oil pressure sender is damped which normaly masks the problem, may be your sender is on its way out. Stu, I fail to see any beniftit in reducing the amount of oil that is pumped around the engine Rob
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Yes being factory built in 1998 means you require a cat to meet the MOT emissions test . If it had been purchased before June 1998 and self assembled then it would escape emissions testing. Having said all that in the real world it depends on where you present it for testing, some testers know the rules many don`t
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Yep. 1144 are a good all round pad for both rd and some track work, if you buy them from questmead you should save yourself a pile.
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It is secondhand but in good working order. What do you expect for £45
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The original fit should have been Mintex 1133. 1144 would have slightly more bite and greater heat range
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Brand spanking new still in the packet Caterham water rail to fit the k series £75 Buyer collects or pays carriage Tel 0117 9239941 Rob
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Alternator to fit K installation £45 Buyer to collect or pay carriage Tel 0117 9239941 Rob
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Payen BW750 should be available at any good motor factor. If the head needs skimming a lot then you could also consider the Rover freelander gasket and shim. Or from Oily if convientient.
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I had three CC triple pass rads fail on my car in less than a year, all started weeping from the joint between the side tanks and the core. I have run a Radtec for the last three years which has not given any trouble.
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Uprated radiator required for engine upgrade?
Rob Walker replied to Tonycaterham's topic in TechTalk
It will be fine Tony, I know of 250 bhp K`s and 280bhp duratecs that have run on the standard ali rad without a problem even in the sumer in the south of France @38C. -
OP, The duratec engine has oil jets directed at the back of the piston crown for cooling and to lubricate the little end. A year back a bought a second hand engine which turned out to be duff, the oil jet on number 3 cyl had blocked as a result the piston had overheated until it had badly distorted and the head had warped in the area of cyl 3 by .025". So I deduce that the oil cooling is prtty necessary. Rob
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BOSS the rears are taper roller bearings also
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You should not be able to feel any play in the rear wheel bearings. I you can then they are worn and you will get pad knock off / long peddle following hard cornering. Unlike the fronts there is no adjustment. BOSS I would beg to differ you should not be able to feel play in the front or rear bearings, what you are looking to avoid is applying too much side load/preloading which causes the bearings to bind and overheat.
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Mike, If you don`t mind a bit of fettling the boot cover from a de dion with the STANDARD roll bar and weather equipment can be made to fit well, its just a matter of trimming around the rear bracing tubes. Put a wanted post should be loads around. Rob
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RS15 in standard calipers should be OK and not suffer from glazing up as per the uprated front brakes as the stock fronts have to work much harder. The increased friction of this pad put on the front with stock rear pads can also give you better brake balance between the front and rear.
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Shaun, You remove the pads , make note of each pads location for refitting and rub them on some 60 grade sand paper that is on a flat surface. You are trying to remove about 0.5mm of the friction material. Then you must clean any of the abrasive grit out of the face of the pad with an airline or carbon tet brake cleaner and a soft cloth. re-fit the pads and you have to then go through the pad break in proceedure once again basically 80 mph down to 50 mph braking as hard as possible about 5 times. At the end of that exercise the brakes should almost pull you eyes out of their sockets under braking . Best done before a track day or event or they will just glaze up again pottering around on our crowded roads. Rob
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Shad sorry to say that if your RS15 `s feel like standard road pads when cold then they are not bedded in correctly or are already glazed. The RS15 is a very high coefficient of friction pad .54 when cold rising to .62 when hot @600C no standard road pad delivers this type of performance and as such they should bite like nothing you have ever experienced when cold then the friction level increases as they get hot unlike a road pad which may fade when hot. Chalk and cheese.
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Most people that run competition brake pads run with a brake limiting valve in the rear circuit. This allows the rear braking effort to be adjusted to give the required front rear balance to suit all conditions. In my own experience running with uprated brakes all round it is not possible to work the front brakes enough on the road to keep aggressive linings such as the RS15 working within its operating temperature and as a result the pads glaze up. I would not fit anything above RS14 to my car in future.
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Gambo, Thats what I like to see a VX man with full confidence in his car, there will be no more engine outs, will there Good price BTW Rob
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Thwaites brewery would be perfect for me E-mail me your address and I will send you a cheque walker.amoako@virgin.net Cheerio Rob
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I am up in Blackburn next weekend could pick up then.
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Rich, I would like the Castrol SRF please, could someone bring down to the Llandow track day? Rob
