TorAtle

Mike, I agree what you say but the Girling I changed was the master cyl. When I went from cable to hydraulic the pedal got lighter which meant excessive travel to fully disengage clutch. A related question - at the back end of the external slave there is a screw and if you ehem should happen to unscrew this and tilt the cylinder some oil will drain. What's the oil doing back there? Lubricating the piston...? Should I refill straight away?

Just to confuse matters I had to switch from a Girling .7" to a .75". Standard external slave, standard K clutch. I guess it all depends on how much travel you like on the pedal.

Maybe not very relevant, but some electric bikes use them to determine the applied force to the pedals. This in turn signals the amount of assistance needed... I'm done now

With a K, isn't the highest point the cambelt cover? I haven't had one on for years so can't remember, but anyway I'm running 10mm spacers without any clearence issues. Could probably go higher if I wanted.

A Z-shaped bracket mounted on the lower caliper mount worked well . The LED on the backside of the sensor was helpful, it lights up as soon as +12V and GND is connected (and metal is nearby - my sensor is a proximity switch, no need for a magnet). I didn't get a reading to start with but turned out I needed to change the sensor type to ABS. A little off-topic. Some of the sensors are not quite as steady as I would expect, in particular oil pressure and water temp. I use pull-up resistors in the 2-3Kohm range. Oil pressure is up'n'down all the time, while water temp suddenly drops 20 degrees and then recovers after a bit. Does anyone know how many mA each Vref can supply? Or are they all internally connected to the same output? Edited by - TorAtle on 2 Jul 2008 23:05:52

Out of curiosity, is it possible to mount the sensor on the gearbox??

Thanks Darren A Z-shaped mounting bracket sounds like a good idea to get the sensor closer to the wheel bolt. Will make one up tomorrow

Anyone got any pictures? Phil's is gone... Is the preferred way to make up a bracket and use the 2 brake caliper bolts? I am using an MXL speed sensor with (I think) a fine M8 thread.

CageyH, I have a very similar-looking tank from AH fabrications. The small inlet could be a tad larger to match the outlet of the K-engine, but apart from that I like it. If you order one make sure you specify exactly where you want the mounting bracket, sight gauge, inlet sizes and so on.

Don't know the answer to that question, but another option is boring out the boss a couple of sizes and use an adaptor for your existing sensor.

I chopped off the excess part of the water rail and had it welded. The outlet on the plastic thermostat housing now goes to the expansion bottle, and the outlet on the connecting pipe has been transformed into a bleeding point .

The different non-active segments were easily spotted in your pic, Phil, but at least they were even. Since I got the MXL while I was in the states last week I'm toying with the idea of using it this season and sending it in for repair in october. Functionally it seems to be fine. If I send it back now I'm probably looking at a month round trip, customs alone will take over a week.

The problem, although not exclusively, seems to be linked to the last line of text. If this is blank then it looks good - picture here. If for instance I get a BATTERY warning the gear indicator shows '1' with about 30-40% intensity, and the last digit of field 3 buggers up the 3rd character in field 1....etc etc. Edit: Thanks for the pics Darren, I guess mine's going back ☹️ Edited by - TorAtle on 13 May 2008 23:35:05

I've uploaded 3 more shots, all taken from the same angle. Some non-active segments actually change dependent of what is displayed elsewhere on the screen!

Just powered up my new MXL to have a play and I must say I'm pretty disappointed with the quality of the screen. The horizontal viewing angle is ok but the vertical is a joke. Some pictures here Are they all like this??