tom7

My engine was built up from (my) component parts at DVA, with Dave supplying all the new bearings, gaskets, cambelts etc, decking the block, re-honing liners, oil pump and bearing ladder mods for less than £500, seemed perfectly reasonable to me. You could get to £1K if you wanted Dave to fit forged pistons and do a bit of porting at the same time.

For future reference, Car Spares in Hall Green, next to the college are Banner agents and a bit closer to you than Bromsgrove.

List 1a Dunlops, 3 off 225/45x13 as new 6mm+ tread £75 ono pics here Edited by - tom7 on 15 Jul 2006 15:27:10

2x 185/60x13 Yokohama A510, 6mm+ tread as almost new, £40 ono pics here Edited by - tom7 on 15 Jul 2006 15:26:34

Mike, I think you'll be OK if Robin's attitude to my non-catted 200bhp K on TB's was anything to go by.... "Don't care what the computer says, as far as I'm concerned it's visible smoke" 😬 Having said that, at the time Myles was playing with his Emerald to get a pass on his modified EU3 car, then we all referred to the MOT handbook that had the line about testing to what appeared on the V5. Mine didn't have anything Result....No test required 😬

Where are you taking it Mike? There is a very 7 friendly MOT centre in your back yard

If the question is about what engine and box to put in an Elise, you should really only consider the MGF unit as a whole. The engines/boxes shipped to Lotus (for the standard car) were identical. If you are after an 'engine' only, pretty much any will do so long as you swap the peripheries over. Donor 'units' from other vehicles will have the wrong gearbox and harness and may include other items such as PAS pump and a/c units that are not used on the Elise.

As the vibration is speed related not revs related I've discounted the prop as it will achieve the same speed in each gear. Wheel out of true is a possibility (they're Barnby's) so the plan is to give it try with my trackday minilites. Failing that I can only assume driveshaft or hub bearings - Is there anything I can check for without taking the hubs / dedion ears off ??

Well I spanner checked everything and all I found was that the rear ARB was disconnected at the chassis end. I cannot remember disconnecting it ever, so either the vibration has wound out the fixing or that was the cause I'll try it tommorrow on another private test session to see if that's the fix. Other than that, I'm stumped. Any other takers?

At a recent test session, as the speedo reached the 3rd digit , I experienced a vibration from the rear end. The tyres are new and the wheels recently balanced, is there anything particular I should pay attention to or is it just a case of spanner checking all the fixings on the rear suspension and the diff mount. Anybody had a similar occurance Tom

I stand corrected, thanks Then that has to be the solution

You cant just fit any old ECU to your car. It needs to be matched to the plippers and the immobiliser before it will work.

All of what you describe seems perfectly normal for a wet sump K series assuming reasonably good tyres. The only way to avoid this is to dry-sump the car, but I'm not sure this can be done with a VVC car. There is mixed opinion about the Hellier baffle, personally I thinks its an expensive way to achieve not very much! Why not try setting the warning light to a lower level. Sorry not much help, but it's a case of TADTS

I reported exactly the same to BGH. I took the box out and sent it back where it (specifically the synchro rings) was checked out and pronounced to be OK. On re-installation I can confirm that the overcheck has made absolutely no bloody difference and the layshaft chatter has increased considerably from standerd. I will concede that the gearing is now perfect for the car but why should it not feel as good as the original in use? Edited by - tom7 on 28 Jun 2006 11:44:35

Hector, Did Steve have a bad off? I hope all was OK. I left just as he was going out for his last session.