tbird

Same as above in CSR200 have no problems with 95, BTW I have removed (actual got CC to remove at purchase) SVA flap from filler, now no problems with any pump, I believe it is pretty simple to do, there is a thread somewhere about it, will have a look and edit if found found one of the many here Tim Edited by - tbird on 6 Sep 2009 22:55:46

Away for next couple of weeks so if any finds old frame, I will check post on return or BM m cheers

Adbett, that sounds hopefull, condition, colour etc pretty irrevalent, it going to get trashed anyway, I want to experiment swapping presstuds for Tenax fasteners so just want something to experiment on before taking Drill/hammer to my screen 😬 cheers Tim

Anyone got a busted screen frame they dont want, dont need glass, dont really need the complete frame just interested in the top section with pressstuds fitted, happily pay postage plus contribution to NTL cheers Tim

Eugene cheers more food for thought

its not to do with having problems its just Tenax fittings are easier than pressstuds to attach quickly, the hood side would be easy but you have reminded me that the male part is a threaded stud,ok into grp but probably a probem into the screen frame, unless a rivnut or similar could be fitted, probably a PITA so may be a non runner

Phil VOX if I remember correctly stands for Voice Operated Switch, basicaly you dont need to press any buttons to talk, it remains muted until one person starts talking and then the intercomm/amp kicks in so the other person can hear you, means you dont have to take hands of wheel and hunt for PTT button (press to talk) speeling Edited by - tbird on 31 Aug 2009 16:04:52

Has anybody swapped the press studs on the windscreen frame for Tenax fittings, if so easy or 🙆🏻 of a job

does it feel the same as other keys when pressed, if it feels softer you've probably got toast crumbs under it (Really, it used to be a major stopper for keybards where I used to work)

Jez your an idiot 😳 😬 But I would like to know which of us haven't been that same idiot in the past glad its sorted 😬 😬 😬

Stuart, Hi, IMHO trying to gauge battery health with a DVM (probably not a hugely expensive one ie less than a couple of hundred quid) is very diffcult, DVMs have very hi internal resistance and unless a cell has pretty much shorted out you will see around 12/13 v depending on meter, even on a pretty flat battery, its the ability to deliver/accept current that causes problems, a good battery place will have an instrument for checking battery condition, ON NO ACCOUNT TRY TO MEASURE CURRENT ACCROSS THE BATTERY WITH A DVM IT WILL AT BEST DESTROY YOUR METER, in previous posts you have said that the problem exhibits with battery off car, then you said later that the problem had gone if you disconnected the battery, first you need to decide if this is the case, so are you sure that with the battery off the car the chargers work ok, if so then you are almost definately looking for a current drain with ignition turned off, if this is the case you will need to do some logical fault finding, one way would be to follow procedure in my previous post. If you do not feel happy doing this a good electrician/auto electrition should be able to identify if there is any current drain within about 5 minutes and a couple of hours to find which circuit, fix may take a little longer Just a thought, when you disconnected/connected battery earth did you notice any sparking as you disconnected/connected the lead. If you want to dive straight in to look for a current drain, with battery on car +v terminal connected, turn OFF ignition disconnect earth at battery, set DVM to measure DC current, set to measure 2amps or more, connect DVM leads so red lead is on negative terminal of battery and black lead is on earth lead so you are putting dvm in series with battery circuit. if v low reading reduce range until you get a reading, if you get one let us know wha it is keep at it and I am sure BC can help find the root of the problem Edited by - tbird on 27 Aug 2009 10:18:33 Edited by - tbird on 27 Aug 2009 11:36:23

Knowing where the earth points are may not be that useful, the drain from battery is current flowing so a possible strategy would be to connect battery as normal, pop out half the fuses, (make sure you record which go where 😬 try battery charger, if battery charges ok then you know that it is a circuit you have disabled, if it does not charge then you know the circuit still has a fuse fitted. if first case replace fuses one or two at a time until fault occurs, carry on until down to 1 fuse, then at least you know where to look on circuit diag if second case then remove other half of fuses one or two at a time until problem circuit is identified think that makes sense Having said that I would have thought that realisticaly about the only thing that could drain current with ignition off would be immobiliser circuits . or a real long shot, if 1 diode in the alternator pack has gone short the alternator would work just about ok but would allow current flow to earth with ignition off, you could check by removing battery to alternator lead (at the alternator) and doing your charger test, removing fuses would not pick this up, however I would have thought it would drain your battery within a couple of days at best good luck Tim Edited by - tbird on 27 Aug 2009 01:21:19 Edited by - tbird on 27 Aug 2009 01:25:59

May not be as expensive as you think to post back to states, although I have been lucky acouple of times with American companies, they are big on service, an e-mail might get results, I got a new torch in the post, not interested in return, just accepted I was telling truth. If purchased via e-bay have you a receipt dossing around in e-mail or paypal history

possibly a sucking eggs situation here 😬 never worked with old fuel guages but new senders eg VDO the lower resistance at sender is the full reading around 3ohms to earth is full, around 200 ohms is empty, so low resistance at sender, max voltage accross meter = max deflection, so when you had 30% deflection of meter what voltage did you have accross meter, or is that where it was when you had 12 v accross it. Pictures not ever so clear but I can see that both brass threads are isolated from earth, so presumeably the green wire connects to stud and then stud is connected to sender, what is the dohicky that the blue wire seems to connect to, it looks to be in the wrong place to be the meter coil

brain not fully functioning at moment but its not a 6 volt meter by any chance, if you are using 12 volts to test may explain odd readings, I think its been a long day +v / -V volt issue have you tried bunging a battery straight accross meter say start a 3V and work up to 6v and see how much deflection you get and which polarity drives guage positive Edited by - tbird on 22 Aug 2009 21:27:42

yeah good point, had forgotten swiss taxes/costs, ☹️ Edited by - tbird on 19 Aug 2009 20:11:24

Available here also no fire extinguisher on list Anthony, just blatmailed you to say you mailed me instead of Ian Edited by - tbird on 19 Aug 2009 19:50:50

thesheep , mabe talk to madhatter here they are doing a bulk buy at the moment

Peter thanks for the info Tim

6SM Peter did you fit sump guard yourself, big job little job, looks like it slides on chassis rail, surely it cant 🤔 Tim

PH YHBM Tim

same as he said, I was also wondering about fitting, I talked to Dom at CCs before buying car and he reconned it reduced ground clearance and I ended up not having it fitted, but wondering again if it is only a couple of MM lower it may be worthwhile, especialy as living in rural Northumberland I fairly regularly dink the botom of the engine on road centres

good point could just keep a really good torch in the car Edited by - tbird on 12 Aug 2009 19:30:01

Darren, I am sure you know this, but remember you need a cetain amount of current to flow in the circuit to trigger the relay as you calculated earlier you will be drawing around 100mA given 89 ohms and 13 V if you stuff anothe resistor in series yes it will reduce current but most relays seem to need 100mA min to trigger, so you might introduce another problem, while your unit is at geartronics do you think they would test output, to trigger their recomended relay then send you the pair, that would rule out incompatibility, if it popped again then you would know you are looking at a local (but very strange) issue (unless you are keeping something secret about the circuit) 😬 Edited by - tbird on 12 Aug 2009 17:54:35