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tbird

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Everything posted by tbird

  1. have your sidescreens got Arm rests fitted if so you may need Escutcheon plate The armrests are nice to have, make screens more stable and more watertight Tim Edited by - tbird on 29 Jun 2013 17:48:33
  2. seem to remember a thread a while back suggesting the female connectors in the relay socket can get pushed/vibrate back into the socket causing intermittent connections, may be something to check Tim
  3. Phlea yhm, afraid Aero is wrong size for me. ☹️ Tim
  4. deleted similar question to above Edited by - tbird on 22 Jun 2013 21:56:20
  5. Phil when you say flush filler do you mean Aero, have you got any pics, preferably next to a ruler, both outside face and inside face, sorry if its a pain, but bought one thinking there was only one size caterham aero cap and it doesn't fit, so obviously more than one size about cheers Tim
  6. Quoting ECR: Ignore the cigarette (it's a red herring ) There must be a time when there is an explosive mix of air and fuel in the tank - what about when we run out of fuel and the pump becomes exposed and starts sucking air ? Why don't sparks from the pump, or the sender for that matter, cause problems ? well going back to basic question, The external connections, spades or whatever are too far apart for 12vPD to breakdown the insulation from petrol, There may be a tiny chance of a spark if one was loose but you would then need exactly the correct fuel vapour air mix around the pump which, by the very fact that no one has ever heard of a tank in a car exploding, obviously never happens. I presume the motors are brushless so where would all these hypothetical sparks originate the motor is in a can so any sparking there might be would be in a sealed or semi sealed environment so even if there was ignition of vapour in the semi sealed part of the pump it would not be catastrophic, bit like Kapok isolating Acetylene in bottles but if you look around the web a lot of people have asked the same question and no one seems to have a truly definitive answer Tim Edited by - tbird on 19 Jun 2013 11:14:20 Edited by - tbird on 19 Jun 2013 17:03:03
  7. another guess would be that any small sparks generated are no where near energetic enough to ignite the mix of gasses in the tank. If you think how difficult it can, sometimes, be to get the fuel air mix to explode in the cylinders where you want it to with the correct mix and a high energy long(is) duration spark. probably a combination of all the things mentioned so far, or we are all just really lucky 😬 Tim Edited by - tbird on 18 Jun 2013 20:14:33
  8. we are presuming that the pump motor is surrounded by either petrol or vapour, I would guess all the electrical bits are within a sealed chamber possibly oil filled, there is no great pressure so O rings would do, drive to the pump itself could be via, a sealed shaft or across a membrane. Submersible pumps are very common technology, (ponds, sump pumps etc.) so I guess they are pretty good at sealing them. Tim
  9. technicaly Potential difference between the two points, but yes the higher voltage the more likely the insulator is to break down and allow current to flow. Tim
  10. Why do we experience "water in the electrics" problems with our cars ? Pure distilled de ionised water is a very poor conductor of electricity, the muckier it gets the more the impurities conduct. "damp electrics" are usual on HT side of things, and a very thin film of water, HV will track to earth through a thin film of dirty water. Techy answer here 😬 Actualy thinking about it the senders have always been in the tank and open to fuel, far more likely to spark than a sealed motor and I have never heard of one going bang Tim Edited by - tbird on 18 Jun 2013 18:11:01
  11. often up the pressure for ferry days, if using them, every mm helps get over the hinge on the ramp. Tim
  12. You could also look here MudStuff Tim
  13. tbird

    Soldering

    Technically, wrapped and crimped joints are , when done correctly, superior to soldiered joints, soldered joints, as mentioned before, can become crystalline, and make the wires brittle, the bit that is vapour tight on a crimp is the metal to metal contact caused by the pressure from the crimping tool, you will never get this with pliers and moisture will get between the surfaces eventually and start to cause problems, if you decide to keep using pliers and or solder I would recommend that you augment it with glue filled heatshrink sleeves which will help to keep out moisture as well as help stop the wire flexing at the joint. and if you are an inexperienced solderer then this is the stuff you want, solder Tim Edited by - tbird on 7 Jun 2013 22:25:12
  14. tbird

    test

    http://snack.to/pdci68mj or maybe Bogie racing Edited by - tbird on 28 May 2013 01:21:05
  15. tbird

    Exhaust clamp

    If you do want to change it Ahmed then Plus Gas will be more use than WD40, will need repeated application for a couple of days to help loosen it up, when / if the nuts move put some copper slip on the exposed threads to help ease the nuts along, These folk keep a reasonable selectionof clamps but you will need to do your own calculation for Pipe diameter, if its a standard exhaust someone will no doubt know the size required. Tim
  16. Great day in Dunkeld - ran into the Bentley and MG owners clubs - stunning machines :-) metaphorically I trust Tim
  17. tbird

    Pick up day

    shame Caterhams aren't fitted with AIS , then we could have the equivalent of marinetraffic.com to search for him. Tim
  18. tbird

    Pick up day

    well if he's been out enjoying his new motor until now I am betting he will be that well known early season colour, Caterham Lobster pink *redface* *redface* 😬 Tim
  19. Quoting myothercarsa2cv: Has anyone ever tried shock therapy on a cat? yep Tim
  20. I use the single barrel michelin, fits more neatly in the boot, done about 3 years but to be honest tyres don't need topping up that often, are you particularly heavy footed Tim
  21. Good luck, all part of the joy of touring Tim
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