tbird

John if you don't mind going under bonnet to isolate, These work quite well and are cheap and cheerful, had one on last Audi as it had a battery drain I could not find. Don't fit the fused link if you want to totally isolate. *redface* Sorry AntR read post butdidn't follow link 😔 Tim Edited by - tbird on 25 Jul 2013 21:27:58

CSR petrol tank, Pump and sender on top, Tank seems to be weeping from front NS corner so Needs removing, a couple of numpty questions if I may high pressure side of fuel line, metal pipe from pump to right angle plastic union to pipe that goes to filter, presume its a quick release by pressing the blue sides, any tips for getting at the side right next to the tank 😔 so I can press both sides at once. any gotchas / O rings that will fall off as I disconnect things , Oh yes and what are the odds of getting it out through the top with FIA bar fitted, getting the honeycomb out was fun enough cheers Tim Edited by - tbird on 23 Jul 2013 15:15:26

In hot weather and in traffic the CSR regularly hits 105c fan cuts in around then give or take and drops it back to 85-90 , had a chat with CCM and they said perfectly normal for Duratec , still makes me wince but I am assured its normal . Tim

does this thread help at all or this one Tim

If it helps anyone buy, I am up In Skye for the next month, and then in Chester on the 18th and 19th August, happy to assist in a Gonads. if it helps 😬 Tim

surely though you have fitted new tyres "over the years" but you say its always done it Tim

OK so don't need to carry any, 1 ltr plenty if it makes you feel happy 😬, if you are just driving fairly steadily no reason it should use oil, Mine uses virtualy none unless I am being a hooligan then she spits some into the catch tank, Tim Edited by - tbird on 9 Jul 2013 01:05:15

Ahmed, no just picked an expensive source 😬 I carry 2.5l but just because I had a handy 2.5 litre poly bottle, which reminds me I think it has started leaking may need a new one. I always keep oil bottle in a decent poly bag with clip seal just in case. I guess you know exactly how much you top up per 1000K just take what you will need, Tim

yep sorry quite correct I looked at Magnatec 10w-40 L still wouldnt mix two oils with different viscosities and possibly different additives, especialy as one is also a Long life. as I said probably OK but why take the risk Tim

for voltage checks with battery connected and engine running, meter set up to a range that can read 12vdc If you check voltage between alternator output, +ve lead and battery earth -ve lead , might need two people for safety one, on each lead (mech safety more than electrical) make a note now check voltage directly across battery terminals the readings should be within .2 volts or so just after start I would expect IRO 14.3v to 14.8v in terms of resistance I would be looking a lowest Ohms range on meter and resistances under 1 ohm between alternator connections and battery connector. as you say you are inexperienced I would make resistance measurements with battery disconnected if resistance look ok reconnect, run engine until fault appears then disconnect and re check resistances see whats changed BTW Do not spin alternator with battery disconnected or stop engine by lifting battery terminals, may kill alternator Tim Edited by - tbird on 8 Jul 2013 20:52:12

Ahmed the Magnatec is a part synthetic oil, the Edge is a fully synthetic oil. Convenional wisdom is they should not be mixed, probably wouldn't do any harm but if there are two arguments which do you feel comfortable with 1 if you dont mix the oils you can only get the performance you are used to, so engine is fine no damage 2, if you mix oils it will probably be fine however there is an outside chance it may damage your engine for the sake of £25 quid or so you can guarantee scenario 1 , you can answer your own question 😬 Tim

what sort of resistance have you got from Chassis so -ve battery (with new lead fitted) to Engine and have you checked the Alternator earth is clean and shiny follow current path all the way from Alternator to battery cleaning each connection follow earth path back from Alternator to battery cleaning each connection If new alternator and new battery the only thing left is leads/connections. I wouldn't rely on stack, what voltage have you got at the Alternator output, then what voltage have you got at the battery. Tim

sorry *redface*didn't mean to make you a fatboy , it was a glorious day, bet it was warm in the exige, glad you enjoyed my home area 😬 Tim Edited by - tbird on 8 Jul 2013 17:23:56

should be connected to dump any current from alternator to earth if engine killed using FIA switch. This might help 7 FAQ Tim Edited by - tbird on 7 Jul 2013 19:41:48

Don't suppose you had washed her with a hose just before misfire, could it be water in the spark plug sockets Tim

"don't presume, check 😔 didn't look at pic properly Tim

but be careful just to use PTFE on top 3rd or you will need to install a seperate earth Tim

don't know OD and ID but you could give Bresco a call Tim

Yellow SV travelling in company of Exige ? and a couple of MGs, sorry didn't catch reg. near Wark around 10-45, Guess you were heading to Kielder, lovely day for it, Tim Edited by - tbird on 6 Jul 2013 18:27:28

Nothing to see here Tim Edited by - tbird on 5 Jul 2013 00:48:19

why not ring these guys http://www.caterham-sv.com in france and ask the question, they are after sales for France and may be able to help Tim

don't think this is actualy your problem but will mention it just in case, on CSR throttle became not so much stiff as wouldn't close to slow down, I thought it was cable and also kinda got used to it, a quick blip normally sorted problem, anyway after lots of messing about traced it to the small brass screws holding buttterflies in position being loose, all felt fine operating by hand but when driving the butterfly was fouling on The body and sticking, quick test turned out to be if holding the linkage at the throttle you could feel about 2 or 3 mm end float, took off filter and with throttle fully closed put thinnest feeler gauge under butterfly and tightened screws, problem solved. Tim

what I can't get my head around is how the pads release themselves away from the disc when you come off the pedal is it a vacuum affect when the pressure is released?. from How stuff works, saves me thinking about the words and making grammatical gaffs for the pedants to comment on 😬 The single-piston floating-calliper disc brake is self-centring and self-adjusting. The calliper is able to slide from side to side so it will move to the centre each time the brakes are applied. Also, since there is no spring to pull the pads away from the disc, the pads always stay in light contact with the rotor (the rubber piston seal and any wobble in the rotor may actually pull the pads a small distance away from the rotor). This is important because the pistons in the brakes are much larger in diameter than the ones in the master cylinder. If the brake pistons retracted into their cylinders, it might take several applications of the brake pedal to pump enough fluid into the brake cylinder to engage the brake pads. Tim

Glad its sorted, thats the problem with bl006y ECUs , low voltage give random faults taking you down all sorts of dead ends, now you can enjoy the heatwave Tim

I don't know where the ECU actually measures the Voltage but It sounds almost as if Alternator is cutting in and out, using multimeter what voltage do you get at Alternator and at Battery, assuming you can get engine to run and is you alternator single wire or does it have a sensing wire and is that sensing wire connected / have good clean connections . NB this wouldn't explain all symptoms but may be a starting point. Tim Edited by - tbird on 29 Jun 2013 21:47:14