tbird

Maybe need to invite starbucks to open a small coffee shop in the corner, get some new folk to pop in for a freshers evening

ah a sensible tech post not a fatuous one sorry Tim

there was a honda Civic with an air filter full of nuts, but no wildlife present Tim

Not necessarily

I was so hoping that was going to end with "a Dormouse"

was wondering about a power pack myself Expat one thing nobody has asked (just clutching around at straws at the moment. Has this ever happened on first start with cold engine, or is it always when engine/engine compartment is hot. if it never happens with cold engine it would tend to suggest battery ok and just a simple one, do you always disengage clutch when starting, might give you an extra few millivolts. Tim

yep, and not helped by space, just had a trawl through batteries and there doesn't seem to be a more powerful one easily available in same dimensions :-( I suppose if once it fails it usualy takes 5 or 6 attempts you could carry a chunky battery in boot, fully charged, next time it happens jump from battery and see if it fires first time, kinda of down to desperation ideas now, Just had a very similar problem on Discovery but that had noticeably slower cranking when hot, new starter motor fixed that, and I had space to stick two batteries under the bonnet for diagnostics . Much easier :-) Tim

double post deleted

JK the trouble with doing "A randomised sequence would be good but alternating will probably be easier " is that if you are doing them all at once you are weakening your installed battery all the time, so as you progress you are more likely to get failures, if you can fit a battery with a bit more oomph for a while and use car normally , if you don't get the problem its likely to be battery or dodgey connections, battery to starter motor or starter motor earth . Tim

Expat how often does this occur, if happening quite often could you acquire / borrow a new, ideally more powerful, battery, if fault disappears then it would suggest battery, if not you have at least ruled out battery. Tim

Years of working on Aircraft Looms JK, occasionaly comes in handy :-) Tim

Hope its simple so it does't cost you too much, but, on the other hand, hope its complicated so we all have some self esteem left :-) Tim

Fuel pump on mine in top of fuel tank LH side of boot . (well not on top but inside, protruding slightly :-) ) Already been said by Gary7 , but just to reiterate, on the CSR (2.3 Duratec) the process is (obviously I do have LED on Dash) turn on battery, (I d have an FIA cut out) red immobiliser flashing turn ignition key to ON (led still flashing) wave tear drop tag near ignition barrel red led goes out and you should hear a click as immobiliser resets, but more obvious is a buzzing from rear left corner of boot (this is petrol pump cutting in) after about 10 seconds buzzing stops (fuel primed) hit the start button and she fires up (needs very delicate throttle handling at this point, best not to touch throttle until she fires then just a little blip and then she is fine to tick over but dont depress throttle while actualy trying to start) DVM not as good as old analogue meters for response but should easily see drop at battery while cranking, if it drops too low can cause ECU to misbehave and immobiliser to re set

http://i.imgur.com/j4seZjQ.gif Mine's bigger than your is ya na na na na

http://i.imgur.com/j4seZjQ.gif

Shame your in Kent, there seem to be stack dealers in all other areas around london, although I guess any decent motorsport garage could sort it, have none of the Kent members got a similar car fitted with a Stack gauge, there are some good guys down there, at least you would have something to compare . Actualy Caterham might be the best bet or what about Sevens and Classics at Brands. Good luck anyway sorry we couldn't sort it for you Tim

yes I do :-) stack 8130 dash instructions (1).pdf and my aide memoire for the Buttons stack buttons left to right, shift light switch, switch 1, switch 2, switch 4, switch 3. L - R.... Shift light, 1, 2, 4, 3. 1 & 3 to switch MPH/KPH” I also have some notes on cal procedure for petrol tank, but they are hard copy and up in Skye, its not quite as simple as the manual suggests Tim

the stack manual isn't that helpful it just defines the wire as ES (engine speed) no colour, but from post I linked it may be Black and white and connected to the LT supply for the coil packs. be a lot easier if I was up in Skye :-) Tim

the club must be getting smaller, used to be the BC10, now its only the BC 4 , well that'll save on stickers, maybe Toby has a few left that could be modified Tim

Who mentioned PopCorn thread

new club T shirt Steve, maybe along with one of these http://skreened.com/render-product/s/m/x/smxeuiiiebgwyozfaomc/image.anvil-unisex-value-fitted-tee.white.w460h520b3z1.jpg Tim

you could also give Caterham Dartford a call, they helped me out a while back with a Stack problem and obviously they know where all the wires go CC Dartford 01322 625800

Old cars are fine, don't have all that electronic crap, its the middling ones that are a PITA, sorry nothing useful to say :-(

Have you removed and reconnected the plug on the back of the Stack, should be possible by feel , its similar to this http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v672/orpheus_2005/2007/26-10-2007/new/Conector.jpg so you should be able to reach behind spin the locking coller and remove, actualy getting the dash out is not too difficult, can talk you through it Tim

my ignorance is coming in to play here, I guess from the manual you know the tacho connects either to the LT side of coil (which you probably don't have) or to Tacho output of ecu, although caterham may do something different as is their wont, my car not here so can't check anything but JK may be able to tell you which pin on ECU is Tacho however found this post which may also help gives a possible wire for R500 might give you a pointer as it has worked previously I guess we are probably looking for something that has become loose/ dropped off :-) Tim