Shaun_E

I bought a good digital multimeter from maplins a few days ago to try and resolve the problem. With the multimeter in circuit it showed a current flowing of 13mA - I pulled every single fuse in turn and no change to the reading so I suspect the problem is the battery side of the fuse box. I'll try the alternator connection first then. I presume the immobiliser (standard Rover MEMS) draws the same current whether armed or not. Yellow SL #32

I thought that I had solved my battery drain problem but apparently not. Although I could only measure a 13mA drain, my brand new (replacement) Red Top 15 battery is still losing charge. I bought a new Optimate charger/conditioner to keep it in good condition and it's fine with the charger connected. I left the car without the Optimate connected for 24 hours and the battery voltage has dropped to 12V - this is a huge reduction in the battery capacity so there must still be a large current drain and I must have not measured it properly ☹️. What are the most likely suspects? i.e. what should I disconnect to eliminate as the cause? I'm at the end of my tether on this . Who can I take the car to to get it fixed? Should I use a Cateham service agent or an Autoelectrician? Help please before I go off the car completely. Yellow SL #32

I used Autoglym bumper black but it doesn't last long. I now have a full set of new switches which I'll fit when I put the new dash in. A full set of the rocker switches comes to less than £50 from Caterham so it's not that horrendous and compared with polishing them every couple of months it has to be a bargain! Yellow SL #32

Caterham will charge close to £600 for it but there isn't anything majorly scary. Details below: Engine oil Drain and replace Engine oil filter Replace Differential oil level Check and top up Gearbox oil level Check and top up Screen washer fluid level Check and top up Screen washers Check operation and alignment Coolant hoses Check for condition, leaks and security Alternator drive belt Check tension and condition, replace if necessary Carburettor Check and set balance and idle settings Lights and bulbs Check all lights and replace bulbs as necessary Switchgear Check operation Wheel nut torques Check for tightness Clutch Check operation Handbrake operation Check and adjust Brake pads Check for wear, replace if necessary CV gaitors Check condition Tyres Check condition and advise if replacement necessary Seatbelts and harnesses Check for condition and operation Horn Check Wipers Check condition and operation, replace if necessary Steering joints and gaitors Check Trunnions (Classic only) Lubricate A frame bush Check, replace if necessary Wheel bearing endfloat Check and adjust Brake discs Check for condition and wear, replace if necessary ECU diagnostics Check if possible Headlight alignment Check and adjust Exhaust system Check mountings and exhaust condition Clutch cable Check condition and adjustment Suspension security Check and retorque bolts Suspension bushes Check and replace if necessary Wheel alignment Check and adjust if necessary Brake pipes and unions Check for security and leaks Air filter Clean or change if necessary Battery Check security, condition and connections, top up Engine mountings Check Spark plugs Replace Sump foam baffle Replace Fuses Check sizes and integrity, replace if necessary Steering rack Check security and lubricate if necessary Wheel bearings Repack Brake hoses Replace Coolant Drain and replace Brake fluid Replace Fuel filter Replace Fuel lines Check for security and leaks Coil lead Replace Distributor cap Replace Rotor arm Replace Road test To check dampers, brakes, steering, instruments etc. Yellow SL #32

Myles - your post is a bit worrying. I am insured with Egger Lawson and when I first took out the insurance was told that the standard Rover immobiliser was acceptable. However I have just completed a renewal form that states Cat 2 required - I ticked the box to say I have it as I believed that it is Cat 2. If this is not the case then I could be in trouble if the car was stolen. Anyone else with Egger Lawson and got any comment? Yellow SL #32

I think there is something wrong with the timer on my Seat's temp gauge - the needle goes to the middle position far too quickly. 😬 😬 😬 Actually this is a good point: my Seat is a 225bhp 1.8 Turbo as per the Audi TT and even on a really good thrash on a hot day the temperature doesn't budge from the normal position - that really can't be right. Yellow SL #32 Edited by - Shaun_E on 20 Jun 2005 15:51:09

Just to add confusion, I walked into my local motor factors and asked for an MGF fuel filter which they had in stock and it fitted with no problems - sorry don't have the part number. I did have to remove one of the adaptor pieces from the J tube so I suspect that could be part of the problem. Yellow SL #32

I'm pretty sure they aren't really connected to any coolant sensor at all but are just on a timing device that waits a while and then moves the needle to the desired point . This way nobody gets unduly worried about their engine (until like Alex's it blows up 😬) A more serious answer I guess has to do with a few things: 1) The gauge is seriously overdamped to prevent any small fluctuations 2) Electronically controlled thermostats with careful management of coolant flow 3) Components designed to work together as a system On a seven ony 1) might apply and if you have a decent gauge (e.g. Stack) then you can see the fluctuations clearly. I don't understand how a correctly designed thermostatically controlled cooling system can allow an engine to be overcooled (referring to some of your previous posts on the matter). If the thermostat is shut then the engine coolant should reach the opening temp of that 'stat. If it doesn't then there must be a bypass that is allowing cool water into the engine. Once the stat opens then water will flow through the radiator until the temp drops below the 'stat closing temperature and so the cycle repeats. If the flow rates and radiator size are reasonably matched then the temp will slowly fluctuate between a range either side of the 'stat's opening temp - a well damped gauge would eliminate that fluctuation. Yellow SL #32

Q plated and running with wind deflectors instead of side screens. Yellow SL #32

Duncan - just use your elbows If you really wanted to make something to hold the doors open then you can buy thin auminium strips from B&Q very cheaply. Bend to shape and drill holes for poppers and you could have some neat little arms that attach to the popper in the side skin and prop the door open - a popper base rivetted to the arm could then allow you to attach the door to it to prevent the door being blown open too far - IYSWIM Yellow SL #32

Search the archives for details on the "Bikini" hood. There are two types planned for production - one Caterham specific one (blue one in the photos on the above post) and another universal one which attaches to the rollbar, is flat, doesn't come down to meet the doors and is a universal fit for any seven type car (yellow in the photos). I saw the universal one on trial at Cadwell park and other than a small problem with one of the poppers coming undone (problem with the popper rather than the design) I can assure you it worked at a little over 5mph 😬. I ordered the Caterham specific one at the Stoneleigh Kitcar show - its being made at the moment so expect delivery in a week or so. Edited to say "too slow again" Ian beat me to it - it was his car that I saw at Cadwell. Yellow SL #32 Edited by - Shaun_E on 15 Jun 2005 14:49:31

Right - I've got myself a decent multimeter and can now say that the current draw is about 13.5 mA which doesn't seem that much. Reading some of the other posts on this subject, a draw of 40mA would not be unusual so mine is quite low. Either there is another current draw I'm not aware of (intermittent?) or my battery really is knackered. The RedTop 15 has a capacity of 14Ah so should give 1000 hours before going flat with the above current draw. Could it be that the ECU is taking much longer to go into standby mode, by which time the battery is nearly drained? I think I can test this. The battery voltage when everything connected back up is 12.89 volts which sounds good to me - it's been disconnected overnight. When charged it has no problem starting the car and after 24 hours it can still start the car easily. Is there perhaps another problem and the battery isn't flat at all? This doesn't make much sense to me at the moment. Yellow SL #32

Cheers Bob, Don't have an MBE but that is something else for me to try. Will unplug the ECU and the MFRU and see what happens. At the end of my tether on this and will very shortly be looking for a professional to fix it for me. Anyone know what the best route would be - an auto electrician or a Caterham service agent? Any recommendations in Berkshire/Thames Valley area? Yellow SL #32

I connected the ammeter in series and then pulled each fuse in order - none made a difference. I then pulled the flasher unit out and replaced it as I have had a dodgy connection with it. I then tried the hazards which worked fine but since then the current drain has gone off the scale (only 250mA meter). Have pulled each fuse in turn again and still makes no difference. If I understand this correctly the problem must therefore be on the battery side of the fuse box. What can I check or unplug to find the cause? I'm really struggling now. The only slightly good news is that the battery is still reading 12.8V so I might have got away without completely destroying it. Yellow SL #32

Measuring with a cheap ammeter (i.e. not that accurate) the current draw is about 12 mA. The battery voltage is 12.8V - will check that again in a couple of hours now that I have disconnected it and removed the conditioner - as long as it doesn't drop then the battery should be OK. I have a thin wire connected to the battery earth which, if connnected on it's own (i.e. main earth strap not connected), makes the ECU live and triggers what I think is probably the IACV. Is this correct (may be a red herring)? I think I need to get better ammeter before progressing. What should I start unplugging to see if it is the cause of the current drain? There can't be much that doesn't go through the ignition switch. Yellow SL #32

Have just spoken to DMS and if I have completely discharged the battery then it could well be knackered - I might be lucky and just suffer a slight reduction in capacity but otherwise it's new battery time ☹️ Yellow SL #32

Cheers Steve. I have an ammeter so will check the drain. The battery was recharged with a Halfords intelligent (if that isn't a contradiction ) charger that works as a normal battery charger until the battery is charged and then switches to a conditioning mode. The alternator is fine - I get about 14.2 V when running (the Stack has a voltmeter on it) but I can't remember checking the voltage when not running so will double check that. The fried headlight switch was my mistake when trying to find the dip switch problem - the headlight switch is very close to the big red starter button and when I was taking the switch out managed to touch the two together briefly 😳. The problem is almost certainly a drain somewhere - my first suspect was my additional power sockets for bullet cam, etc as my soldering isn't the greatest but I've checked and there are no short circuits on any of the additional sockets I put in. I had problems with the reversing light blowing the fuse (also the brake light fuse!) as it is the old wiring with a permanent live feed to the light and earthed through the switch but this feed is switched through the ignition so shouldn'tbe a problem - I have disconnected it anyway but it wasn't the problem. I was hoping that someone might have some ideas as to the type of thing that might be causing a significant current drain so that I could check them first, otherwise it's going to be one of those nightmare processes of elimination ☹️. Yellow SL #32

for Omex as well - it's a tiny unit which you can just stick to the top of the dash. Bright enough in full sun but not dazzling at night. Down side is that mine is hardwired to the control unit so I had to drill a big hole in the scuttle to get it through - covered by the windscreen rubber though so not an issue. Yellow SL #32

I have a major problem in that the battery on my car goes flat after 2 days without a conditioner. this obviously precludes going away for a weekend ☹️. The battery is a Red Top 15 purchased new in April and should have ample storage capability to last a few days even with the immobiliser on. It has now been almost completely discharged 3 times due to not having the conditioner available so I hope I haven't damaged it. The question is where do I start in looking for the cause of the drain and how do I find/measure it? I have had a few electrical issues during the rebuild including a broken dip switch, fried headlight switch, reversing light blowing the fuse. I have disconnected the live to the reversing light (pending a propoer re-wire). What are the most likely causes of a short circuit? This has to be my worst nightmare - I hate car electrics . Yellow SL #32

£110 including Xenon upgrade. Yellow SL #32

For all those people who wanted to fit lightweight alloy rear calipers, it looks like Marlin have come up with a solution to the problem of how to fit a handbrake. News release here. Yellow SL #32

Blue Seven seen as we were leaving Ruthin this afternoon - got a wave. We were in the yellow seven. Yellow SL #32

Good idea Dave, I'll see if I can get along to one although looking at the dates probably can't do one until August. I'd love to come along to Llandow again but I'll be in Paris celebrating my wedding anniversary . Looks like I might be able to get to Loton Park. Yellow SL #32

The reason I ask is that I really want Freestyle to set the car up for me (actually will be Gary May under the Juno banner as Freestyle just supply the parts) but as said above he is very busy and I can't seem to get a slot with him to do the work. I am happy fitting the dampers and ARB myself but want someone to do the corner weights and ride height and also to check the camber, castor, toe in, etc. Anyone got any suggestions as to who else could do the setup for me? I am concerned that as a 3rd party wouldn't know the spring rates or damper details they would not be able to get as good a setup as Gary could. Bear in mind that I don't know much about car setup and don't have the skill or time to do lots of adjustments and tests - I want someone who knows what they are doing to give me as good a starting point as possible. I want to be able to record that setup and make small, recorded changes to learn how they will affect the car - at any time I want to be able to return to the known good setup if my changes prove to be poor. Yellow SL #32

Slight hijack 😳 but questions for those who have the Freestyle kit: 1. Did you fit the stuff yourself? 2. Who set the car up for you after fitting? 3. If you set it up yourself, how did you do it? Rake, ride hide, etc. 4. Did you have the car corner weights checked/adjusted? 5. What settings have you used (dampers, ARB) for the road? Yellow SL #32