Shaun_E

Thanks folks.

Yellow SL #32

Dave - please tell me is the box I described the immobiliser? I already have a new immobiliser fitted so not worried about that. I just need to know I am removing the correct piece of equipment.

Cheers,

Shaun

Yellow SL #32

You can't hotwire the car - the immobiliser sets something in the ECU. You can do all you like to the immobiliser after that but the car won't start.

I just need to make sure the box I described above is the one I need to give to the purchaser of my ECU.

I can remove the details once someone confirms it to me. I need to know by the end of today.

Yellow SL #32

Before I make a big mistake can someone please confirm that the immobiliser is the black plastic box bolted inside the scuttle on the driver's side - it has Lucas stickers on it.

Thanks,

Shaun

Yellow SL #32

How much are you saving? The clutch plate and cover are £140 from Caterham - I can't believe you'll save a huge amount on that price. CRB is £10.

Yellow SL #32

In a real down pour on the motorway you will need a waterproof jacket as you will get spray coming in from the back of the car. If there isn't much standing water then you will be fine. I much prefer this to the claustrophobic full hood. The other advantage it that it takes much less time to fit.

Yellow SL #32

I've just bought a set of Magnecor leads from Elise Parts. Oily said the blue ones would be fine on my forthcoming 200bhp+ engine but I was suckered into buying the better specification red ones 😳.

If the Hella ones meet the OEM specification then they should be fine.

Yellow SL #32

Cheers Ian.

New cam seals are definitely required as mine were leaking a bit.

Yellow SL #32

One of Paul's questions to me was is it a head off job to replace the cams and I realise I don't know the answer. Obviously I have the head off but is this necessary to swap cams?

Yellow SL #32

Yes the bore is quite small and when I last looked at mine it was pretty badly corroded. I was having the reverse problem in that I couldn't get it to switch off. Adjusting the cable worked to a certain extent but I'm sure I'm still getting warm air coming in when the valve is closed.

Yellow SL #32

Nick,

YHM back.

Shaun

Yellow SL #32

I suspect I'm about to try and teach you to suck eggs but...is the valve opening fully? The cable could have stretched or moved. Or perhaps the valve itself is the bit that is blocked?

Yellow SL #32

I suspect the Radweld is a likely cause of the problem and I doubt re-coring would be cost effective.

I am sure I have seen second hand heaters for sale on here - all those weight saving types ditching them. The usual problem with the s/h ones is the securing tabs have broken, but this is easily remedied by rivetting a bit of right angle ali to the case.

Yellow SL #32

Myles - thanks you've answered my question - it only operates on the ECU.

I have had a better immobiliser fitted so will sell the ECU and immobiliser as a matched pair as that is easier and cheaper for the buyer

Yellow SL #32

I have a crank shaft and set of rods from a 1.6 K-series. They are all in excellent condition. The rods still have the pistons attached but these would need replacing (or at least need new rings).

£50 would be nice but please make me an offer.

Yellow SL #32

Best way to improve aerodynamics is to remove the windscreen and fit an aeroscreen. You can buy smaller lights (try SVC for 5 3/4" headlights) but that won't make much difference.

For the engine upgrade bible look at DVA Power although of course Caterham provide upgrades (Supersport - 135bhp, Supersport R - 160bhp).

Yellow SL #32

Edited by - Shaun_E on 3 Oct 2005 10:06:26

I will be removing my MEMS ECU this month to replace with an Emerald and want to remove the immobiliser as well (to sell as a unit). Does the Rover immobiliser work only with the ECU or does it immobilise through another circuit as well.

What I really want to know is can I just remove the immobiliser?

Yellow SL #32

I think the softer tyres are more prone to tramlining. I never really noticed it with A021Rs but when I switched to A048Rs it was much more noticeable. It is probably just exagerating an existing issue perhaps with the camber settings not being equal or it could be that you need a little bit of toe in.

Yellow SL #32

Hands up - the dry sumped described engine above is mine ☹️. I was gobsmacked at how badly blocked the pickup was . Before everyone shouts "I told you so" it wasn't until after I had fitted my sump that I read the advice not to use silicone. I then removed it and used blue hylomar instead thinking that would be OK - it patently is not.

Luckily my engine was being stripped prior to upgrading but it probably wouldn't have held on much longer. The engine obviously had other issues as well - the oil pump was completely knackered (some hard debris by the look of the damage) and a piece of debris has also found it's way through my gold scavenge pump. Luckily Oily was able to clean up the scavenge pump and it should be fine.

I learned a hell of a lot watching my engine being taken apart and will be there for the build .

My advice is listen to Oily.

Yellow SL #32

I've been running with a Red Top 15 for some time now and it works well (K-series) and a friend is running with the same in a Crossflow with no problems.

Edited to remove an error.

Yellow SL #32

Edited by - Shaun_E on 26 Oct 2005 18:54:09

Use Rain-X - means you hardly need the wipers.

Yellow SL #32

Could the ECU temperature sensor be faulty? The temperatures you describe sound normal and the standard fan switch is set somewhere north of 90 degrees so the operation of the fan sounds OK.

Yellow SL #32

Too many choices, but I'm still going to get the Nitrons - my mind is made up... .

Adrian - thanks for the offer. I'm sure I'll see you at a local meet or just on the road.

Yellow SL #32

Straightforward job but a bit fiddly as it's difficult to get to. The coil is located on the side of the engine block underneath the inlet plenum. You can get a replacement from Elise parts or your local Rover dealer. When I replaced mine the Rover dealer was twice as expensive but I was in a hurry and couldn't wait for delivery.

To remove the old one disconnect the LT and HT leads (and rev counter if connected there) and undo the 2 or 3 bolts that hold it to the block. Replacement is, as they say in the Haynes manuals, the reverse.

Yellow SL #32

I haven't. I am looking for a product about which there is a reasonable amount of knowledge and experience in the Caterham world hence the attraction of the AVO and Nitron dampers. Whilst there may not be as many Caterham owners using Nitrons as there are AVOs, there are a few and this counts a lot for me. Looking at the Leda website, they do have a specific setup for Caterham - anyone know the spring rates they use? They are in the same price bracket as the Nitrons. Can't seem to find much on Pro Gas

Yellow SL #32