Shaun_E

Another for the one from RF concepts. You set the Camcorder up in the AV in mode and the LANC detects that. Even when the Camcorder then goes into sleep mode, the LANC still operates correctly - Magic 😬. Works perfectly with my Sony PC109 - product details here.

Yellow SL #32

The difference between the old and new starters is incredible. As Dave said, with the old one it was like the engine was being hand cranked but with the new one it turns over and fires instantly.

Unfortunately, the hose we had trouble with before is still not sealing. Luckily I have a replacement which I will fit this week.

Mapping session is on the 23rd so I will report back with the results.

Yellow SL #32

I have now fitted a Caterham race starter and the problem is solved. It is possible that the old starter could be fixed or even that there was a wiring problem that was cured when I changed the starter but the result is that I can now start the engine easily and repeatably.

The race starter is a pig to fit as the solenoid sticks out at an angle rather than sitting directly above or below the starter (as would have seemed sensible ) and therefore fouls the exhaust (even my 4-1 competition exhaust). I was able to rejig the position of the primary that was fouling but it is still too close to the live terminal for comfort. The solenoid also nearly touches one of the other primaries. Still it's enough to get me going until I can replace the exhaust system with a 4-2-1.

Now just got to replace the leaking coolant hose and I'll be ready to get some miles on the clock.

Yellow SL #32

Unless you have a very early 6 speed, the part will be either a Ford or a Caterham AP specified unit. The current one from Caterham for all models 5 and 6 speed, is an AP unit. Costs £75 for new plate and £130 for a new cover.

Yellow SL #32

Angus - if I can't get the starter on then I'll give you a call and pop over to look at your "carefully peened" exhaust .

Yellow SL #32

It's £230+VAT+delivery.

The guy in parts thought that it wouldn't fit a pre-2000 Caterham. I checked with someone in the Technical department and he said it would fit with my 4-1 as it was a "race" exhaust but he didn't sound that convinced. I've ordered it anyway and will use Angus' technique if required.

I don't know if it will fit with your 4-2-1. I have heard that the later exhausts are different but that you can't guarantee which you have even if bought recently - depends what was in stock I guess.

Yellow SL #32

Caterham technical say it will fit - do we believe them 🤔

I'll order it now and hope it doens't need too much fettling of either block or exhaust.

Thanks for you help folks.

Yellow SL #32

Started the car last night OK so went for a drive. Took a risk and turned the engine off when I stopped at a friends but couldn't restart it. It jump started OK for me to get back home. Seems that the first start drains the battery so much that it would take more than the few miles I did to recharge.

I phoned Caterham today to get the race starter and they said I should speak to engineering before purchasing as they weren't sure it would fit a pre 2000 car - they thought it would foul on the exhaust. I'm still waiting for them to call me back. The person I spoke to in parts thought that my 4-1 competition exhaust was possibly the only one it would fit with. Can anyone confirm this one way or the other.

Are there any fitting issues with the Brise? I don't want to be attacking the block with an angle grinder - it's a non Caterham block so has already been fettled so that the present starter fits.

Yellow SL #32

Ah yes - the caravan shop Berkshire Towing and Leisure

78-80 Church Street

Chalvey

Slough

Berks

SL1 2PE

Yellow SL #32

Rob - thanks for the offer. I'll see how things go for a few days but if no improvement then I'd like to take you up on that - will at least let me know if it definitely is the starter.

Yellow SL #32

I'm going to try and start it tonight so we'll see how it goes. I hope it is just becasue it's new, although turning by hand it doesn't seem tight. As it starts better when warm I've just got to not stall it in the first few miles . Have to look at one of those battery boosters just in case.

If it doesn't get easier over the next few days then I'll replace the starter either with a Caterham race one or a Brise.

Yellow SL #32

Had problems getting my new 1.9K started - its obviously higher compression than the 1.6 it replaces but not ludicrously high. The starter motor turns over, but very slowly - we tried a brand new fully charged Banner in place of the Red Top 15 but that didn't make any difference. Surpisingly it is much easier to start when warm. Jump starting works fine.

Will a new starter be likely to solve the problem?

Is there much difference in the power of starter motors? If so which are the most powerful?

Is there a possibility that it is the wiring? If so what should I check? The car has recently had a Caterham battery master switch fitted with all new cabling as supplied in their kit.

Obviously I have seen recommendations for Brise but what are the alternatives? Is the Caterham race starter up to the job?

If I am going to replace it then it needs to be done quickly so long lead time suppliers are no good for me.

Yellow SL #32

Dave - yes we got home safely although it was gone midnight as the M1 had 2 lanes closed ☹️. I wasn't happy when we hit the tailback but the car behaved impeccably and that coolant hose didn't leak again. I've got a slot with Emerald in a couple of weeks time so will let you know the results.

Yellow SL #32

Hi Paul - we met at Daves last weekend. Emerald have a slot free this Thursday if you can make it. I was booked in for the afternoon but won't have run my new engine in by then. The person booked in for the morning also dropped out. I was going to mail you some info on something but I can't remember what 😳 - remind me what it was and I'll mail you with it.

Shaun

Yellow SL #32

As Chris says you can use the same sort of sender for oil as you have for water. I think that they are about a tenner from Caterham.

Yellow SL #32

I would go for oil temperature.

Its surprising how much longer than water oil takes to get up to temp so very useful. Also useful on trackdays as oil temp can reach critical values.

What does an ammeter give you?

Yellow SL #32

I need to get a slightly longer fuel hose to go between the solid fuel line from the rear of the car and the fuel rail. Can anyone tell me what size fittings are used? I guess the easiest thing to do would be get an extension made up unless the fitting to the fuel rail (right angle piece that bolts to the rail with 2 bolts) is also a common fitting.

Yellow SL #32

They are fitted to turbocharged cars to release the pressure from the turbo when the throttle is lifted (i.e. closed). The back pressure caused by lifting the throttle can cause the turbo to stall (or even break) - by releasing that pressure, the turbo keeps spinning in closed throttle conditions and can therefore provide full boost again more quickly. Dump valves can be recirculating - i.e. plumbed back into the inlet, or atmospheric. It is the atmospheric ones which make the characteristic "whoosh" - recirculating ones tend to make a more muffled sound.

Yellow SL #32

Jammers are pretty "dodgy". There is no specific law preventing their purchase or use but charges of "obstructing a police officer in the course of duty" or even "perverting the course of justice" may be laid. The first seems more likely but the second carries a pretty hefty penalty including jail. Search through the "Speed Plod and the Law" section of Pistonheads for more information and details of cases that have been brought.

Laser and radar detectors are soon to be made illegal in the Road Safety Act 2005 which is either now or soon to be before Parliament.

GPS based devices which warn of camera locations will not be affected by the legislation.

Yellow SL #32

Why not go for a Scholar 1900 conversion? This with a set of forged pistons and your exisiting head and TBs should give you an excellent engine. With BP285H cams you'll be up over 200bhp. The pistons that Scholar supply are Pistal slipper pistons and I am told the engine would need refreshing every 15k-30k miles depending on use. However I understand you can now get Omega pistons in the required 82mm which might be a better bet. Unless you want to rev over 8000rpm, you don't "need" a steel crank or rods but the "single tang" design of rods is supposed to be better.

Scholar EVO2 1900 block/liner conversion (exchange) including pistons - £1100

Second hand single tang rods - £100?

Balance Engine - £180

Sundries £200

Yellow SL #32

1. Yes and no. It is better in that it sucks oil from 2 points in the sump & therefore copes better with surge conditions. It is worse in that the pressure pump is belt driven and therefore a belt failure is immediately catastrophic - with the Caterham system you do have a short time to shut down while the tank empties.

2. With the bellhousing tank the oil takes longer to warm up as the large amount of metal in the bell housing will keep the oil cool longer. Conversely with the smaller capacity the oil may need cooling. In terms of location it is much easier and neater than fitting a separate tank.

3. Don't know. Less likely though.

4. The Caterham kit is a straightforward install with the engine out - it is a bolt on job although some bits are a little fiddly and the instructions are poor. You don't have to touch the internal pressure pump. I can't say for the Pace but you do of course have to mount the separate tank somewhere and I believe you have to do something to the internal pressure pump.

5. Don't know. ihave had no issues with the Caterham system.

Yellow SL #32

If the pump drive is lost then, unless you have some sort of warning device, the first you will know of it is when your oil pressure drops to zero and the engine goes bang. Some people have, I believe fitted either a micro switch or a light sensor to tell if the belt breaks and then lights a large warning light on the dash - if you react quick enough and shut down then you should save your engine - the more oil capacity in your tank, the longer you have to shut down.

I can second frankyknuckles' findings regarding capacity - max 5 litres without Apollo or oil cooler.

I believe some early adopters had breathing problems with the Pace setup but it may be resolved now.

To me the Caterham system is probably the easy choice (hence why I went for it) as you just order the kit from Caterham, curse the cr@ppy instructions and get on and fit it. It is also a very neat install when complete - the pump fits where a power steeering pump would have gone thus utilising standard fixings and the tank in the bellhousing is a neat touch.

With the Pace system you are one of a much smaller group of users but perhaps it is technicallly a "better" system. The cost difference is not nearly as much as people say once you have added up all the bits that you must source from different places for the Pace system but there is a saving.

If I were to make the choice now I would probably chooise Pace as I will shortly have a highly modified engine. If I was fitting to a standard Caterham engine then I would probably stick with the Caterham DS kit.

Yellow SL #32

I believe the Pace system also has a 2 stage scavenge pump so better able to keep the sump empty and therefore the tank full in surge conditions and it uses a separate pressure pump rather than reusing the Rover one.

A conversation I had with a certain well known engine tuner, suggested that the Caterham gold scavenge pump "may" be marginal in its ability to keep up with oil flow on a tuned K-series with improved oilways. This worried me a little as I am using that system with my forthcoming 1.9K which is having the oil ways and oil pump improved. There is only anecdotal evidence for this but it is probably something to bear in mind. On a K as it comes from Caterham there would be no such issues.

The Caterham bell housing is a very neat solution but it is quite heavy and has no greater oil capacity than the wet sump.

Yellow SL #32

Check the coil too. Mine died between taking it off for my rebuild and refitting it.

Yellow SL #32

Edited by - Shaun_E on 8 Oct 2005 16:46:12

A "Durable Dot" tool - consists of a base shaped to rest the popper in and a shaped punch which you use to ... oh it's too difficult to describe - you want one of these which you can get from Caterham or IMHO a better one from Jill Judd

Yellow SL #32