Shaun_E

Aah..well spotted - that's a bit more reasonable then. I guess you need the adjustable platforms to deal with the change in ride height caused by the different sized wheels. Yellow SL #32 Edited by - Shaun_E on 16 Dec 2005 08:24:25

That's robbery. 13" 8 spoke + CR500's are only £720 on the website (and yes that includes VAT). There is a small charge I think for assembly and balancing but not much. Yellow SL #32

I am proud to say I have the 7" version. Are you sure about the price? I paid £595 plus VAT and delivery. Yellow SL #32

Which silencer? They do a standrd 6" and a quieter 7" version. Yellow SL #32

I agree that there is no need to keep the ECU and immobiliser connected. However, the Caterham Battery Master Switch kit and instructions include wiring for the ECU and immobiliser to bypass the switch - that would be a typical installation, especially if done by Caterham. If you wire it yourself or ask for it to be done without the bypass then your problem is solved (and you get a handy kill switch should you go sprinting or racing 😬). Yellow SL #32

Angus - I got an exchange alternator at a place on the Slough Trading estate called Quickstart: 844, Plymouth Rd, Slough, Berkshire SL1 4LP Tel: 01753 567077 Cost me £80 for an exchange unit. They can probably test the one you have before swapping but best to give them a call first. Yellow SL #32

SVC and others do a Battery Pillar Master switch which looks easy to fit and saves you having to undo the battery lead each time. From the picture it looks like the wrong type for the terminals on a Banner but I'm sure you could find something similar that would fit. The expensive option is to fit a proper battery cut-off switch but that is typically wired with the ECU and/or immobiliser still connected so won't really solve your problem. Yellow SL #32 Edited by - Shaun_E on 15 Dec 2005 11:27:01

4-2-1 slightly better for mid range torque, 4-1 slightly better for top end power. Have a look at Dave Andrews site here for some info on lengths and diameters. On my (non-SV) car I have gone for the Caterham VHPD 4-2-1 system which includes primaries, collector and 7" (i.e. quiet) silencer for £595+VAT. My engine made 227bhp and 167lbft with this system and is much quieter than my previous engine with 5" silencer. I think Caterham do an SV version. The only downside is that is not repackable but given the value of the complete system (primaries and collector individually would be £100 each - i.e. £500+VAT) then if it ever needs repacking I'll either have it modified to make it repackable or buy a Raceco. Yellow SL #32 Edited by - Shaun_E on 15 Dec 2005 11:19:32

Rob - sometimes holding the pulley works (e.g. with screwdriver through the holes) but I found that the pump rotors can still rotate. You might need to take the oil pipe off the top and use a screwdriver or similar through the hole to stop the rotors from rotating - obviously be careful as you don't want to damage them. Yellow SL #32

My local motor factor had a fuel syphon which only cost a few quid. It did the job for me without even removing the filler surround as the pipe that goes into the tank was quite flexible. Yellow SL #32

Try here. Under £20 and £3 postage. Yellow SL #32

Allen bolt for No4 primary is correct and normal. It's to clear the water rail. Yellow SL #32

I put an 82 degree stat in my 1900K and use the Emerald to control the fan switch. So far, in the recent cold weather, the water temp is in the low 70's while moving and oil is about 60. Yellow SL #32

8mm and 10mm Yellow SL #32

I don't understand this - surely if you've got a thermostat then there should be no need to block off part of the radiator as water won't be flowing through it. If it gets hot enough to open the thermostat then the water will just cool more quickly and the thermostat will close again. I have done several long journeys in the last week with the low ambient temperatures and the oil has been around 60 degrees and the water a steady 70 degrees. As soon as I slowed down, the water temperature rises fairly quickly and the thermostat opens to reduce it again. When stopped in traffic it rises to the point that the fan cuts in. This would all seem to be the designed behaviour. I think that the really low ambient temperatures just produce lots of cooling of the block and in fact the thermostat rarely opens when driving at speed. The heater works even when the thermostat is not open so if your heater isn't providing any heat, then either it's broken or your thermostat is broken. Bear in mind that at speed, the heater is pretty ineffective anyway as the warm air is rapidly sucked out of the cockpit faster than the heater can replace it - when you are stationary or driving slowly it works fine. Yellow SL #32

You probably would need to fettle the block a little as well - its the rear most rib that fouls the adaptor plate and the starter itself. I took an angle grinder and a dremel high speed cutter to the block and also took a bit off the starter itself - the adaptor looks too thin to have any metal removed. The advantages are that it will turn over a high compression engine easily and possibly lessen the battery voltage drop when turning over. It should also be less affected by heat but I can't promise that. Yellow SL #32

See my post here for discussion of the results but basically 227bhp @8000rpm and about 167lbft at about 6750rpm - I'd say that is a pretty good result. Dave - I'll pick up the battery box next time I'm in your part of the world - I hadn't even realised I'd left it behind. Yellow SL #32

Ooh.. that might have been me and my wife coming back from Longleat. It was bl00dy freezing. Yellow SL #32

My 1.9 with a solid cammed VVC head will be hitting Emeralds rollers tomorrow - I'll report the results when I get back. I've been running it in for the last 3 weeks and it is very tractable - in fact it's easier to drive than it was as a 1.6SS. I've been running restricted revs and have yet to take it over 5000rpm so don't know what it is really capable of but overtaking is effortless in most situations. I'm expecting to be scared witless when I can use all 8000rpm. Yellow SL #32

Deal is done. Adrian will collect from me today and Rob will deliver to awards bash on Sunday. Cheers, Shaun Yellow SL #32

Dave M - as Dave J says, it is better to have the Lambda probe taking an average reading rather than an individual cylinder. For example if cylinder 4 is running a bit richer than the others and the fueling is backed off across the board, then one of the other cylinders could end up running lean - at least thats how I understand the risks. The Lambda probe is only required for the mapping session as it is normal to NOT run the Emerald in closed loop. Emerald use their own wide band Lambda sensor for the mapping session so no need to extend the wires of your existing one. Off to Emerald on Wednesday so will post results when I get back. Yellow SL #32 Edited by - Shaun_E on 17 Nov 2005 11:57:06

The P-Zeros on my tin top start to tramline quite badly once they are about 2/3rds worn. when I switched to A048Rs on my Caterham it also tramlined more than with the A021Rs I had before. So yes tyre choice and tyre wear can have an effect. Toe in can also make a significant difference - a slight amount of toe in will reduce tramlining when compared with a parallel or toe-out setting. Yellow SL #32

*thumbup*for Southern Carburetters. Bosses and plugs in stock and should get them tomorrow. Yellow SL #32

Yep - same place (been here 14 years!!!). Yellow SL #32

Cheers - have emailed Bill and will try SC if I don't get a reply. Yellow SL #32