Shaun_E

4-2-1 slightly better for mid range torque, 4-1 slightly better for top end power. Have a look at Dave Andrews site here for some info on lengths and diameters.

On my (non-SV) car I have gone for the Caterham VHPD 4-2-1 system which includes primaries, collector and 7" (i.e. quiet) silencer for £595+VAT. My engine made 227bhp and 167lbft with this system and is much quieter than my previous engine with 5" silencer. I think Caterham do an SV version. The only downside is that is not repackable but given the value of the complete system (primaries and collector individually would be £100 each - i.e. £500+VAT) then if it ever needs repacking I'll either have it modified to make it repackable or buy a Raceco.

Yellow SL #32

Edited by - Shaun_E on 15 Dec 2005 11:19:32

Rob - sometimes holding the pulley works (e.g. with screwdriver through the holes) but I found that the pump rotors can still rotate. You might need to take the oil pipe off the top and use a screwdriver or similar through the hole to stop the rotors from rotating - obviously be careful as you don't want to damage them.

Yellow SL #32

My local motor factor had a fuel syphon which only cost a few quid. It did the job for me without even removing the filler surround as the pipe that goes into the tank was quite flexible.

Yellow SL #32

Try here. Under £20 and £3 postage.

Yellow SL #32

Allen bolt for No4 primary is correct and normal. It's to clear the water rail.

Yellow SL #32

I put an 82 degree stat in my 1900K and use the Emerald to control the fan switch. So far, in the recent cold weather, the water temp is in the low 70's while moving and oil is about 60.

Yellow SL #32

8mm and 10mm

Yellow SL #32

I don't understand this - surely if you've got a thermostat then there should be no need to block off part of the radiator as water won't be flowing through it. If it gets hot enough to open the thermostat then the water will just cool more quickly and the thermostat will close again.

I have done several long journeys in the last week with the low ambient temperatures and the oil has been around 60 degrees and the water a steady 70 degrees. As soon as I slowed down, the water temperature rises fairly quickly and the thermostat opens to reduce it again. When stopped in traffic it rises to the point that the fan cuts in. This would all seem to be the designed behaviour. I think that the really low ambient temperatures just produce lots of cooling of the block and in fact the thermostat rarely opens when driving at speed.

The heater works even when the thermostat is not open so if your heater isn't providing any heat, then either it's broken or your thermostat is broken. Bear in mind that at speed, the heater is pretty ineffective anyway as the warm air is rapidly sucked out of the cockpit faster than the heater can replace it - when you are stationary or driving slowly it works fine.

Yellow SL #32

You probably would need to fettle the block a little as well - its the rear most rib that fouls the adaptor plate and the starter itself. I took an angle grinder and a dremel high speed cutter to the block and also took a bit off the starter itself - the adaptor looks too thin to have any metal removed.

The advantages are that it will turn over a high compression engine easily and possibly lessen the battery voltage drop when turning over. It should also be less affected by heat but I can't promise that.

Yellow SL #32

See my post here for discussion of the results but basically 227bhp @8000rpm and about 167lbft at about 6750rpm - I'd say that is a pretty good result.

Dave - I'll pick up the battery box next time I'm in your part of the world - I hadn't even realised I'd left it behind.

Yellow SL #32

Ooh.. that might have been me and my wife coming back from Longleat. It was bl00dy freezing.

Yellow SL #32

My 1.9 with a solid cammed VVC head will be hitting Emeralds rollers tomorrow - I'll report the results when I get back. I've been running it in for the last 3 weeks and it is very tractable - in fact it's easier to drive than it was as a 1.6SS. I've been running restricted revs and have yet to take it over 5000rpm so don't know what it is really capable of but overtaking is effortless in most situations. I'm expecting to be scared witless when I can use all 8000rpm.

Yellow SL #32

Deal is done.

Adrian will collect from me today and Rob will deliver to awards bash on Sunday.

Cheers,

Shaun

Yellow SL #32

Dave M - as Dave J says, it is better to have the Lambda probe taking an average reading rather than an individual cylinder. For example if cylinder 4 is running a bit richer than the others and the fueling is backed off across the board, then one of the other cylinders could end up running lean - at least thats how I understand the risks. The Lambda probe is only required for the mapping session as it is normal to NOT run the Emerald in closed loop. Emerald use their own wide band Lambda sensor for the mapping session so no need to extend the wires of your existing one.

Off to Emerald on Wednesday so will post results when I get back.

Yellow SL #32

Edited by - Shaun_E on 17 Nov 2005 11:57:06

The P-Zeros on my tin top start to tramline quite badly once they are about 2/3rds worn. when I switched to A048Rs on my Caterham it also tramlined more than with the A021Rs I had before. So yes tyre choice and tyre wear can have an effect. Toe in can also make a significant difference - a slight amount of toe in will reduce tramlining when compared with a parallel or toe-out setting.

Yellow SL #32

*thumbup*for Southern Carburetters. Bosses and plugs in stock and should get them tomorrow.

Yellow SL #32

Yep - same place (been here 14 years!!!).

Yellow SL #32

Cheers - have emailed Bill and will try SC if I don't get a reply.

Yellow SL #32

I need to get a boss for the Lambda probe put into the collector of my exhaust system before I get the engine mapped - I will also need a plug for the existing hole in primary 4.

Can anyone suggest a good source for this, preferably near to Slough? Is it a standard bit that any exhaust place will have or will I have to order it specially?

As usual I have left this to the last minute so need to get it done today or tomorrow (or Tuesday at a push).

thanks,

Shaun

Yellow SL #32

Fitted the new 4-2-1 exhaust tonight and there is loads of clearance between it and the race starter motor . Easy to fit and goes through the existing opening in the side skin without modification.

Yellow SL #32

Rob - that would be great. Needs to be collected tomorrow or Thursday though. Will wait to hear from Dave.

Yellow SL #32

Dave - 1st dibs accepted.

Angus - have bought the Caterham 4-2-1 race exhaust with a 7" silencer for 2 reasons. 1) the 4-1 is way too close to the race starter and 2) the 5" can is too noisy and I would have to replace it anyway. Total cost of the Caterham system compares favourably with aftermarket. Silencer is not repackable but when it goes I'll get a Raceco one - I expect to get a few years out of it though.

Yellow SL #32

Stainless steel 4-1 Caterham competition exhaust. This is the one where the 4 primaries exit the side skin before joining the 4-1 collector. The silencer is 5" diameter and is not repackable.

Ths whole system is in good condition although there are some scrapes on the bottom of the silencer from speed ramps. The system has been polished but the primaries will need a bit of elbow grease to get them sparkling again.

The cost from Caterham is £495+VAT - I would like £290.

Yellow SL #32

Yes I had to grind some metal off the block in-situ as well - 'twas a bit tricky . I also took a bit off the starter as that was easier to do. I used a small diameter (115mm) angle grinder and a high speed cutter on a Dremel. The high speed cutter goes through aluminium like a hot knife through butter so I had to be extremely careful.

Have a search for another thread on this as someone else had the same probelm of Caterham delivering them an old stock exhaust even when they'd asked for the new design.

Yellow SL #32

Yes even with 3 clips it still leaked . I have realised that silicon hoses might look very nice but they can be a real pain to get a proper seal on. It will be replaced with the rubber hose that came with the dry sump kit (until vanity gets the better of me 😳).

I suspect that the hose might actually be damaged but it could possibly be the flat bit on the submarine pipe that is causing the problem. It was lucky my wife was watching me drive off as she saw the pool of coolant forming on the drive.

Yellow SL #32