Shaun_E

Surely the diff and drive shafts play no part in suspending the wheels from the car. Therefore if you take them off and reassemble the suspension, all will be fine. Of course this means you have to either a)remove the the drive shafts from the hubs or b)take the whole hub assembly off with the drive shaft. In case a) everything is fine but you have to undo that 41mm (?) 200lbft nut. In case b) it is possible (I can't visualise it now) that the bolts that hold the de-dion to the radius arms normally go through the hub as well and therefore will now be too long.

You could leave the drive shafts on the hubs and just lay the diff ends of the shafts on a plastic tray or similar so that they slide along the ground as you wheel the car forward.

The simplest solution though is to suspend the rear of the car on some wheeled device - either a trolley jack (bit risky) or a proper dolly. I made some dollys out of 4x4 fence post and B&Q castors. If did it again I'd get bigger castors - Machine Mart do some good value ones.

Yellow SL #32

Mobil 1 is normally 0W40 and Mobil 1 Motorsport is 15W50.

Which one you should use depends on your engine and the usage you put it to. If you use the car on road in the winter then you'll probably need 0W40. If all you ever do is racing or trackdays then I guess the 15W50 will be more suitable.

I am using the 0W40 in my 227bhp K-series.

Yellow SL #32

The other advantage to using a relay is that should you purchase an Emerald ECU, you can control the fan with the ECU and set it to come on and off at whatever temperatures you like.

Yellow SL #32

I am led to believe that Phil at Road and Race can do some mods to bring the box up to what they call "Swiss Spec" - that is for the 300bhp+ nutter turbo things that the Swiss guys have. I think that Dave Jackson may have had the mods done to his gearbox.

Yellow SL #32

The Club normally does Brands Hatch in September and have also in the past done Snetterton and Silverstone.

The cost varies from track to track and could be anywhere between £150 and £300 per driver. Brands, Cadwell and Silverstone will be nearer £300 whereas Snetterton, etc. will be cheaper.

There are some non-club days organised by various members that might be of interest e.g. this one here.

Yellow SL #32

Tyrone - YHM

Yellow SL #32

Be very careful though. I have messed up one of my cycle wings trying to strip the lacquer off with Nitromors. Have a word with tony at TSK - he has some some stuff that did a good job of removing the lacquer from the bare carbon band on my nosecone - I just wish I had got the details before tackling my wing.

Yellow SL #32

Don't forget to remove the earth strap from the drivers side of the engine - it is surprisingly strong and will lift the car off the axle stands quite easily 😳.

If your top chassis diagonals are removable then remove them.

Other than that it is a simple process of draining the fluids, disconnecting everything (I suggest you label the less obvious wires and hoses), undoing the engine mounts and gearbox mounts and then hoisting it out. The gearbox oil will pour out the back as the prop slides out so make sure you have a suitable receptacle in place.

If you are leaving the gearbox in place then make sure it is well supported before splitting the engine from it. A jack underneath works well and I then tied it to a piece of 2x2 laid across the engine bay so I could move the car again.

It is a pretty straightforward job and can be done alone - it is easier to have 2 pairs of hands though when actually guiding the engine out.

Yellow SL #32

Not sure at all - I've never seen a definitive description of the water flow ina K . I have read this and as usual some disagreement but it would seem that I am wrong and the water flows from water rail to heater and then to thermostat.

Yellow SL #32

Edited by - Shaun_E on 19 Dec 2005 13:42:48

Bozz - I'm pretty sure that the water flows from the thermostat housing so by your logic should be connected to the top hose of the heater.

Yellow SL #32

Could it possibly be slight condensation on the cold screen that is stopping the suction cup from making perfect contact. Try wiping the area with a dry cloth before attaching the suction cup. When fitting a rear view mirror it is essential to get the area spotlessly clean and dry before attaching the adhesive pad so I guess this might similarly apply to a suction cup.

Yellow SL #32

Angus - ask Santa for a set of Magnecor leads. I got mine from Eliseparts. Not cheap but very good quality - ask Michael about the excellent service he had from Magnecor when he broke one of his leads. I have the red ones but the blues are a bit cheaper and would be a good choice still. If you need a short term solution I think I still have my original leads in the garage somewhere.

Yellow SL #32

Edited by - Shaun_E on 19 Dec 2005 11:53:17

Just checked the assembly manual and the correct way is as mine with the thermostat connected to the upper heater outlet and the water rail connected to the lower one. I can't see it making that much difference though.

Yellow SL #32

On mine upper hose goes to thermostat housing, lower hose goes to water rail.

Yellow SL #32

I thought about modding my existing 4-1 but you may well run out of room for a decent sized silencer - if noise is likley to be an issue then it probably doesn't make sense. I guess if you shortened the primaries it might work. In the end I sold my 4-1 and bought the Caterham 4-2-1 VHPD system. The cost to change ended up being about £400 but I also went from a 5" silencer to a 7" which I would have had to do anyway for noise reasons. You could probably sell your 4-1 for more than I sold mine for and thus reduce the difference. Mine was the Caterham competition one that retails for £495+VAT so I sold it for £290 which is about half the new price (and very good value for the purchaser). The Rx00 system costs more new so you should get more for it. The Caterham 4-2-1 links primaries 1 & 4 and 2 & 3.

Yellow SL #32

Tom - you'd need to check it to be sure, but the standard Caterham wiring would leave the ECU and (Ithink) the immobiliser still powered.

I have to say I'm becoming less sure about this so perhaps I just imagined it all!

Yellow SL #32

Presumably any scrappy K series car will have one of these? There must be loads of Metros and early 200s in the scrap yards by now.

Yellow SL #32

Don't see why a larger silencer should limit power. The tube through the middle is the same diameter - there is just more packing material around it which improves the sound deadening. I guess if you tried the two silencers back to back there might be a tiny difference between them but it doesn't seem to have done my power output any harm and I know of a couple of other high power K's that use the 7" can with no apparent ill effects.

The down side is for your passengers as its a bu**er to step over! Surpisingly though it doesn't ground on speed humps as my previous 5" silencer did.

Yellow SL #32

Aah..well spotted - that's a bit more reasonable then. I guess you need the adjustable platforms to deal with the change in ride height caused by the different sized wheels.

Yellow SL #32

Edited by - Shaun_E on 16 Dec 2005 08:24:25

That's robbery. 13" 8 spoke + CR500's are only £720 on the website (and yes that includes VAT). There is a small charge I think for assembly and balancing but not much.

Yellow SL #32

I am proud to say I have the 7" version. Are you sure about the price? I paid £595 plus VAT and delivery.

Yellow SL #32

Which silencer? They do a standrd 6" and a quieter 7" version.

Yellow SL #32

I agree that there is no need to keep the ECU and immobiliser connected. However, the Caterham Battery Master Switch kit and instructions include wiring for the ECU and immobiliser to bypass the switch - that would be a typical installation, especially if done by Caterham. If you wire it yourself or ask for it to be done without the bypass then your problem is solved (and you get a handy kill switch should you go sprinting or racing 😬).

Yellow SL #32

Angus - I got an exchange alternator at a place on the Slough Trading estate called Quickstart:

844, Plymouth Rd, Slough, Berkshire SL1 4LP

Tel: 01753 567077

Cost me £80 for an exchange unit.

They can probably test the one you have before swapping but best to give them a call first.

Yellow SL #32

SVC and others do a Battery Pillar Master switch which looks easy to fit and saves you having to undo the battery lead each time. From the picture it looks like the wrong type for the terminals on a Banner but I'm sure you could find something similar that would fit. The expensive option is to fit a proper battery cut-off switch but that is typically wired with the ECU and/or immobiliser still connected so won't really solve your problem.

Yellow SL #32

Edited by - Shaun_E on 15 Dec 2005 11:27:01