Shaun_E

Good point about knocking the rivet shanks out - I use a large panel pin!

Yellow SL #32

Cheers Dave - should have new dampers before then so it will be the first major test! Gonna be an interesting day as it will be first time on track with new engine plus all the suspension changes...and Gill is driving too .

Yellow SL #32

Drill out the rivets on the inner skin, remove sill, replace with new one, drill through rivet holes into new sill (or mark sill and drill off the car), apply new rivets.

Yellow SL #32

Adrian - great - if I don't get the Freestyle one then yes please I would like to try the red one. Dampers should arrive in the next couple of weeks so I'll drop you a line when I'm ready.

Yellow SL #32

Avon CR500 (new ones). 175/55R13 front and 205/55R13 rear.

Yellow SL #32

Edited by - Shaun_E on 28 Feb 2006 12:37:55

Thanks for the advice folks. Am keeping an eye on a red ARB on ebay and have mailed Freestyle for availability of their adjustable bar.

Yellow SL #32

Finally ordered the Nitrons I have been promising myself for a while. After much research on here, I plumped for 250lbs/inch front springs and 150lbs/inch rears. The car is a 1997 K-series with widetrack and currently has a greeen (18mm) front ARB and the over diff rear bar set on the 2nd from softest setting.

So the questions are:

1. Which front ARB would be a good starting point? I am led to believe the 18mm is maybe too stiff.

2. What should I do with the rear ARB? Change the setting? Ditch it completely?

In some ways it makes sense to leave them as they are, just fit the new dampers and try to work out what needs changing from there, but I really want to make sure I have a proven set-up before playing around. The car is used for road, track and will this year be making an appearance in the club sprint series.

Yellow SL #32

Just checked mine and it is 1/4". Got it from Cromwell tools but can't seem to find a 7/32" one on there.

Yellow SL #32

Edited by - Shaun_E on 27 Feb 2006 18:46:21

Adjusted my Bilsteins last weekend with a hammer and screwdriver! With the car jacked up so the suspension is on full droop, the locking ring needed tapping to unlock it and then I could turn the other ring by hand or at least using gentle taps with the screwdriver. I understand that the AVOs don't have a locking ring in which case should be even easier - is there a grub screw to stop it moving?

Of course a C spanner would make the job easier though.

Yellow SL #32

Peter, I would recommend the Caterham race starter - it is a massive improvement on the standard one and turns over my 1.9 easily. Just make sure it will fit under your primaries first. It is £280 though .

Yellow SL #32

Edited by - Shaun_E on 27 Feb 2006 12:09:48

Mark - how do we know if you have received our forms? Could you post a list here or mail people who have sent them in? I have sent a form in but haven't had any confirmation.

Cheers,

Shaun Elwell

Yellow SL #32

Red dot is the high point of the tyre and should be lined up with the low point of the wheel (usually a notch or mark on the rim). If no red dot then the yellow dot represents the light spot of the tyre and should be aligned with the valve. This information from the Tyre Bible

The reason for this is to minimise the weights required to balance the wheels. I doubt any tyre fitters bother with either of these as they will just stick the tyre on the wheel and put it on the balancing machine.

Yellow SL #32

Well I have the originals still on after nearly 30k miles and several trackdays and they do not look like they will need replacing anytime soon. I guess if you use harder or more abrasive pads then the answer might be different. I am using whatever the standard issue from Caterham is (Mintex 1144??)

Yellow SL #32

That would have been one or both of the Calverts. I was out that way on Saturday as well but a bit later.

Yellow SL #32

Pulled into said garage and heard a nice sounding engine pulling in behind me - a bright yellow CSR260. Had a chat then took off in separate directions.

Also got a wave from a bloke in a nice looking classic Jaguar on the way back home.

Yellow SL #32

If you won't be returning to the centre position then hacksaw the end of the pushrod off - I have as I had the same problem. As above, brake light switch should screw in but the bracket may need bending. There should be adjustment of the throttle cable at the throttle body end. If not you'll need a new inner - use a bicycle brake cable to save some dosh.

Yellow SL #32

Thanks for the info. My colleague has attended many sprints and hillclimbs and races a single seater (an old Brabham). He was just interested as Longcross is close, he hasn't been there before and because of it's normal use as a military vehicle testing facility. If he can't leave until the end of the event then that might be an issue but I will let him know the details.

Yellow SL #32

Are spectators allowed at Longcross and if so are there any special rules? Are tickets requried and if so how much?

I have a colleague who would like to come along and watch.

Yellow SL #32

Thanks for the advice. I can't even use the old wheels as the tyres are down to the wear bars (and some ).

Daft thing is that I have 13" Minataurs and they are fine - really annoyed that the new wheels are thicker still. It was bad enough having to attack the De-Dion tube ends with an angle grinder but this is getting ridiculous.

And why don't Caterham parts tell you this stuff when you order the new wheels? A few simple questions as to what car you are fitting them to and you could order all the parts you need in one go!

Yellow SL #32

Edited by - Shaun_E on 8 Feb 2006 12:27:24

I thought that might be the case. I really don't want to replace the studs if possible as I haven't actually driven the car this year ☹️ and just want it back on the road. Rear wheels are fitted but I still need to raise the ride height at the front to fit the new fronts (gone from A048Rs to CR500s) and if I can do that on Saturday I might actually get to drive the car on Sunday. The new engine has been in for over 2 months and I still haven't given it full throttle 😳.

I will check carefully how many turns the wheel nuts make and if it is 7 turns I'll live with it for the time being.Cheers.

Yellow SL #32

Car will always be in a roadgoing class (I'm not intending to do anything other than L7 club sprints) so should be no issue with petty strut. I would happily fit a petty strut but the forward mounting is not exposed at the moment so will be a bit tricky.

Will get timing strut from Caterham as I need to order some other stuff as well.

I have done several track days with the head restraint in place and recently have taken to reversing it for a bit more comfort. I hope this won't cause a problem with scrutineers.

Will consider the fire extinguisher - not in class 3 Geoff so no need to weigh me down. Will be in class 5 so not expecting great things.

The blue book will be my bed time reading for a while.

Anyone got any thoughts on a second throttle return spring for Jenveys?

Yellow SL #32

I have fitted the rear wheels now after some fettling of the De-Dion tube. However, I am not entirely happy with the length of wheel stud protruding through the new wheels.

Does anyone know if the new 8 spokes are thicker than the old KN Minataurs?

Do all new cars have longer studs?

Should I fit longer studs? If so what is involved.

Thanks,

Shaun

Yellow SL #32

Licence received, championship registration in post, now just got to do the preparation on the car so have a few questions. I have read everything I can on here although I haven't delved into the blue book much yet.

1) Do I need a petty strut for the FIA bar for a) L7 Club events and b) invited events?

2) Throttle return springs - anyone got a picture or description of what is required on Jenvey DTHTBs? To my knowledge I only have the one spring.

3) Timing strut - is it easy to make one or should I just buy one from DT - how much?

4) I have leather S-Type seats so headrest should be OK - anyone have problems with this at scrutineering?

5) Any other quick pointers on preparation?

6) I have a cut-off switch but no fire extinguisher. I am in 2 minds about carrying an extinguisher as my first thought is the marshalls will be better placed than me to use one and I should really concentrate on getting out of the car not trying to put out a fire. What are other's thoughts on this - do you have an extinguisher? I am not likely to go down the plumbed-in route as the car is also used a lot for touring and I don't want to take up half the boot. Should I carry a small hand held or go for a 2.25 litre one? If I carry one it will be mounted transversely in front of the passenger seat where I used to have a small one mounted.

Looking forward to Longcross 😬

Yellow SL #32

Arrived last week.

I'm filling in my club championship registration today - just got to buy a race suit now and I should be ready to go.

Yellow SL #32

7400rpm will probably limit the power with BP285H cams - mine revs to 8000 with the power still climbing a bit. If you want the full RPM then forged pistons will be required but if you limit to 7400 you will probably be OK.

If you are rebuilding the bottom end you will need the following:

Big end shells

Main bearing shells

Thrust washers

Bottom end gasket set

new rod bolts

Other possible needs are:

Flywheel bolts

Balance engine

Airbox kit (if you want to keep noise down)

Head gasket set

Head bolt set

Yellow SL #32