Shaun_E

You will find that you mostly need a maybe 3 or 4 spanner sizes but you won't save much buying them individually and once you factor in postage and the fact you can get 10% off at Halfords and you get a lifetime warranty, I'd just buy the set. If you're feeling flush, a set of ratchet spanners as well is a very useful addition.

Shaun

Spanner size relates to the size of the head of the bolt (A/F=across flats). The bolt size is the shank diameter.

https://www.halfords.com/workshop-tools/tools/spanners-wrenches/halfords-advanced-modular-tray-set-11-piece-combination-spanner-set

If you are logged in and  joined the L7C myrouteapp group then the discount should be applied at checkout. Sorry, I haven't used the app (my car does most of it's mileage on track!!!)

Lotus 7 club members ger a 15% discount on Gold membership.

We've even built a google search for the site: https://www.lotus7.club/google-search

That'll make life easier then :-)

You have to turn them clockwise. The tool does this and pushes back at the same time.

If you are replacing the ignition barrel entirely then you will need both a switch and a push button for starting. I guess it might be possible that you can get an aircraft switch that has the momentary function on it as well but I've not seen one. Most people turn the power on with the aircraft switch and use a push button to start the engine. The link above describes how to wire those.

The tool is for the rear brakes and is this: https://www.screwfix.eu/hilka-pro-craft-brake-caliper-rewind-tool.html - it is easy enough to use.

For road use, the standard pads from Caterham will be fine but lots of people recommend Mintex 1144

Varley Redtop 15 should work nicely as well. Started my high compression K series easily and now my 2L Duratec.

No worries :-) 

There are some instructions in the Guides section here: https://www.lotus7.club/guides/how-guides/wire-starter-button

I had an aftermarket 8130 with an inductive speed sensor picking up the disc bolts on the front wheel. You normally enter the circumference of the wheel in mm and the number of pulses per revolution (4 in my case as 4 bolts on the brake disc). For most accurate setting, you can measure the rolling circumference by drawing a chalk line on the tyre and the floor, rolling the car forward for one wheel rotation and measuring the distance the travelled.

It is of course possible that the Caterham Stack display is set-up differently.

Shaun

YHM in reply.

For Sale - Stack 8130 road legal dash display. It is black and has a 0-3-8000 RPM display

This was fitted to my Superlight by a previous owner and is the fully programmable version with predictive lap timing (additional lap timing hardware required). The current new price for this is £1230 from Demon Tweeks.

It will come complete with the following all of which were working when I removed them:

• oil pressure sensor (1/8" NPT)
• oil temperature sensor (1/8" NPT)
• water temperature sensor (1/8" NPT)
• wheel speed sensor (inductive)
• 4 x Stack momentary switches for settings/selections
• complete Stack loom with connections for all the above plus connections for additional sensors such as fuel pressure

Now the downside: currently the rev counter needle is broken. Estimated repair cost is £160 + shipping + VAT by 213 Performance

For sale as is for £350. Alternatively, with a firm commitment to buy, I will have this repaired and then the price is £600

​

My first comment is: "don't". 

I fitted Savage switches a few years ago and they haven't worn well. The symbols have dropped off a couple of them - easy enough to glue back on but not ideal. I also had the problem you are facing with 2 position switches. Caterham use a custom circuit board to control all this and when I was looking it was over £300. In the end I compromised and had separate toggle switches for wiper speed and heater fan speed. I have a headlight on/off switch (latching), a main beam switch (latching) and a main-beam flash (momentary). You'll probably need some additional relays since the Savage switches won't take the current that some of the standard ones do.

Since that project I've ditched the windscreen so have a load of redundant switches which I need to tidy up some time. If I ever re-do the dash properly, I'll probably ditch the Savage switches and use some good quality toggles in a layout more like the 620R. You can get 3 position toggles for the headlights, etc.

Cutting the carbon was easy enough - I used a step drill to make the switch holes and a dremel type tool to cut any larger holes such as for the Stack dash. I covered the entire dash with masking tape and drew out my design before cutting and drilling. It looked pretty good when I first did it but in hindsight I wouldn't have bothered.

If you find a solution to the toggling switches then it should keep the switch count down and make the dash a bit neater than mine ended up. Keep us posted on how you get on.

There was one for sale late last year: https://www.lotus7.club/forum/market-place/sale-petty-strut-sv 

If you can't get one from Caterham then Arch might be able to supply one.

Hi Alex - I'm sure you'll get plenty more advice but here's some pointers to get you started.

Fitting the petty strut is quite straightforward. Enter "petty strut" (including the quotation marks) in the search box and you'll find lots of threads but here's a couple:

https://www.lotus7.club/forum/techtalk/advice-fitting-petty-strut
https://www.lotus7.club/forum/techtalk/petty-strut-5

You can compete with the windscreen - plenty do - but the car will be quicker on the faster straights with an aero. For the twistier venues you probably won't notice much difference.

Tyres - this will determine whether you are class 2 or 3. Check here for List 1A and List 1B
Class 2 use List 1A tyres - the commonly used one is the Yokohama A539 although there may be other choices.
Class 3 use List 1B tyres - most are using Avon ZZS but there are other choices a well such as Toyo R888R.

No mods required apart from the mandatory Motorsport UK safety ones which amount to putting yellow tape around the battery earth lead!

Spares - zip ties and gaffer tape. Maybe a throttle and clutch cable. Oil and coolant for topping up. You'll work the rest out but guaranteed someone in the paddock will have what you need and happy to lend it to you.

Shaun

If I remember correctly it's about 11 lbft.

Thanks for the pictures - it's reassuring to see that it will fit nicely :-) I just wish my car and dashboard looked half as clean and tidy as yours! I've had a set of DRE lights on my car for years so will just carry on using them. 

On Saturday I removed the old Stack dash and started removing the Stack loom. If the mini Sure-Seal connectors I've ordered arrive this week, I'll hopefully trial fit the Dash 2 next weekend.

Shaun

Since most of my events are sprints and hill-climbs, predictive lap timing not so critical :-). I decided on GoPro as it has GPS built in as well which "should" make the video and data synchronisation a bit easier as it will be based on GPS timestamp - we'll see!

Your video looks good - if mine is close to that quality, I'll be happy.

I'll let you know how I get on and hopefully have some video from my first event (end of April). Thanks for the tips (and to Roger who responded to my by email).

I've bitten the bullet and ordered the Dash 2 Pro - they had a very good deal at Autosport International. I know it won't be perfect as the shift lights will likely be hidden behind the steering wheel but it will be better than the current Stack unit and will mean I can record HD video using a GoPro (I've ordered a Hero 7 Black) and overlay the data. I can re-use all the existing sensors which can be calibrated using the set-up software. I'll post some details when it's fitted - might be a while though!

I've created a new order form with separate product IDs for each colour and that seems to have solved the issue. All new orders will be on the new form and we'll double check the entries on the original form. Sorry for the mess up.

Shaun

I've had a look at this issue and the webshop function isn't working quite as I expected. It seems to record the total quantity against every colour selected. I can only apologise for my misunderstanding and will try and correct it some time this week. This is one of the most complex forms I've designed for the site and I obviously didn't test it to destruction!

Sory for the inconvenience - I'll get it right next time :-)

Shaun