Shaun_E

I guess I could drive with ACB10s to Longcross, Curborough, Llandow and MIRA (maybe Loton as well) and see I if could get someone to take the wheels/tyres to the more distant events (Cadwell/Harewood, Wiscombe, etc.). Something to think about I guess. I suppose it would be cheaper to move to Class 4 and then not be reliant on someone else to transport my spare wheels. Sadly a trailer is out of the question (no room, not even under the 7 in the garage) and my current car can't be fitted with a towbar (but that might change before next season). I also rather like driving to events - makes it more of an occasion somehow. Yellow SL #32

Not my most flattering side 😳. Might take you up on that offer once you've got your 15's. I would like to see if they would fit under my front wings. Would solve my ARB clearance issues at the back as well. Class 4 hmm.... Yellow SL #32

Neil - you've got the extra weight to iron out the bumps . Rob - if I get a second set of wheels with ACB10's then you reckon I could drive to events with them fitted and still get a seasons wear out of them? I would use my CR500s for road and track days then. Ooh..I'll have to get my credit card out then. Yellow SL #32

I have also toyed with the idea of moving to class 4 but I'd still need to buy some new wheels and tyres as it seems there are no decent 13" list 1a tyres anymore. I'm not convinced about using 15" wheels with low profile tyres as road tyres - the ride can't be great. Oh well, will just have to keep duelling in the middle of class 5 . Yellow SL #32

I'm with Martin on this one 😬 - extra points for driving to the event sounds like a great idea . Speaking to a colleague who has been racing/sprinting/hillclimbing for years in everything from Elans to Sevens to single seaters, this actually used to be quite common. However competitors used to trailer the car to a nearby car park and then drive a couple of miles to the event to pick up their bonus points therefore defeating the purpose of the rule. I guess at least it meant the cars had to be genuinely roadgoing. I use CR500s because I drive to events - I understand ACB10 A24 compound wouldn't last 5 minutes on the road - so would be very happy if ACB10s were banned. It might encourage a few more people to compete if they thought it wasn't necessary to trailer the car to events. That said I'm not really a bah humbug kind of person and wouldn't dream of pushing for this. And anyway I'm toying with the idea of ACB10s for next season and begging someone else to take them to events for me 😬. Yellow SL #32

Your temperatures sound perfectly normal. I also have a Stack dash and get the same readings. My understanding is that the standard Caterham gauges are heavily damped and the sensors not that accurate so they don't get the fluctuations. The Stack sender is a better quality item and the display is instant. As for oil well... 😬 (I have just put the Halfords motorsport 5W50 in mine but if you want the best then Mobil 1 or Silkolene Pro seem to come highly recommended, if a little expensive). Yellow SL #32

Yes it is the pitch that varies with engine speed. I had wondered about "suppression" as this type of radio interference was typical on old cars with points (my mini and Mk2 Escort spring to mind) - an ignition capacitor was required. In this day of electronic engine management, I assumed that was no longer required. My alternator is a reconditioned unit and has been banged around a bit recently (have had to remove it a couple of times) so perhaps that is the cause. Didn't get to do much on this last night - too busy fitting an aero screen . Yellow SL #32

Have we got any novice ladies? Are they the ones with the deep voice and the 5 o'clock shadow . OK, yes this is getting a bit silly 😬 Yellow SL #32

What about lady novices 🤔 Yellow SL #32

Went from 21s to 48s and had serious issues with tramlining to the point where we had to use a bit of toe in to get the car useable on the roads. Switched then to CR500s and the problem went away. Yellow SL #32

OK - will check everything thoroughly tonight. I have had problems in the past when the connections got wet or oily (don't ask ). Thanks. Yellow SL #32

My throttle pedal has a small sleeve around the top which rotates or can be bent to close the hole enough to stop the cable from getting out again. Yellow SL #32

Could be the audio lead - I'll check that. I thought we did try with only the new headset unplugged but will double check. Cheers. Yellow SL #32

We have recently started to get a whining noise in the headsets of our Autocom. The noise is engine speed related and of course it is intermittent. I have the Autocom mounted in the boot and the wires for the phone and music player run along the tunnel and come out near the handbrake. The headset leads come out over the boot top chassis rail under the tonneau. Moving the phone lead around appears to affect (sometimes eliminating) the noise. I have checked the wires for damage and they are OK. The only change to the setup recently is that we have replaced one of the headsets. What else should I check and is there a simple way of eliminating the noise? Yellow SL #32

Arrived yesterday thanks . Yellow SL #32

The cable and valve might be moving, OK but when the cable is pushed in fully, is the valve properly closed? You may have to adjust the positioning of the cable in the valve opening mechanism - it's fairly obvious how to do that. Yellow SL #32

Great day. 1st timed run turned out to be my best but steady improvement from 1st practice was good and it is a fun course - just takes some bottle to keep your toe in for best speed through the speed trap. Gill says "Congratulations to Kate for fastest lady and well done Mrs Kipper for being an inspiration to us all." See you all at Wiscombe hopefully. Yellow SL #32

Me too. Accepted for both Cadwell and Harewood so should be a great weekend. Yellow SL #32

Why not remove the lower damper bolt and then you can undo whichever wishbone bolts you like. I have actually removed the whole of the front hub/suspension in one lump after removing the damper. Which bush are you replacing - the chassis end or the hub end? Yellow SL #32

Thanks folks (Matt - got your email ). Dave - nice description 😬 If I see 110mph I'll be happy (Was about the max I saw at Longcross cos I chickened out ☹️). Yellow SL #32

Yes please. shaun dot elwell at blueyonder dot co dot uk Cheers. Yellow SL #32

Is there a course map/layout available for MIRA? Yellow SL #32

The rules are you need a drivers side mirror and one other - see here. Yellow SL #32

Mick - thanks for that, I am about to phone Think. As the filter housing is on the car now, I'll just have to hope that the thread is NPT and not BSP - Caterham parts are fairly convinced it is NPT so I'll go with that. YWHM shortly. Yellow SL #32

I've read all the posts I can find on this but still have some issues. Background - I now have a new oil filter housing (stripped the thread off the old one ☹️) which has the following threaded holes: 1. M12x1.0 at a 45 degree downward angle at the opposite end of the housing to the filter (normal position for the pressure sender) 2. M12x1.0 thread on the top of the housing between the filter and the pressure sender end. 3. 1/8 NPT thread also on the top of the housing. The M12x1.0 holes are both now blocked using cut down bolts and the 1/8 NPT is blocked with a grub screw. Now obviously I don't have a pressure sender fitted at the moment. I want to refit the Stack pressure sender (actually a VDO unit) which has, AFAIK, a 1/8 NPT thread (or is that 1/8 BSP - I'm confused by all these different sizes). I would prefer to fit the sender remotely but given I have 2 holes in the top of the filter housing, it doesn't make sense to buy the Caterham kit which will probably include exactly the same housing. Question 1 - which of the holes would it be best to take a hose from? The M12x1.0 or the 1/8 NPT? And what fitting do I order? Question 2 - what is the fitting I require at the other end for the Stack sender to screw into? Quesiton 3 - do I need a part that can be mounted in place of the horn like the Caterham or Think ones or can I just zip tie the sender to the chassis? Question 4 - does anyone have a photo of either the Caterham or the Think setup? Question 5 - what is the difference between 1/8 NPT and 1/8 BSP? Is it that the NPT is tapered and the BSP isn't? i.e. does a 1/8 BSP male fit into a 1/8 NPT female? I would have just ordered the Caterham kit but it appears that it won't fit the Stack sender as the latest Caterham senders are M12x1.0! Yellow SL #32