Shaun_E

Your temperatures sound perfectly normal. I also have a Stack dash and get the same readings. My understanding is that the standard Caterham gauges are heavily damped and the sensors not that accurate so they don't get the fluctuations. The Stack sender is a better quality item and the display is instant.

As for oil well... 😬

(I have just put the Halfords motorsport 5W50 in mine but if you want the best then Mobil 1 or Silkolene Pro seem to come highly recommended, if a little expensive).

Yellow SL #32

Yes it is the pitch that varies with engine speed.

I had wondered about "suppression" as this type of radio interference was typical on old cars with points (my mini and Mk2 Escort spring to mind) - an ignition capacitor was required. In this day of electronic engine management, I assumed that was no longer required.

My alternator is a reconditioned unit and has been banged around a bit recently (have had to remove it a couple of times) so perhaps that is the cause.

Didn't get to do much on this last night - too busy fitting an aero screen .

Yellow SL #32

Have we got any novice ladies? Are they the ones with the deep voice and the 5 o'clock shadow .

OK, yes this is getting a bit silly 😬

Yellow SL #32

What about lady novices 🤔

Yellow SL #32

Went from 21s to 48s and had serious issues with tramlining to the point where we had to use a bit of toe in to get the car useable on the roads. Switched then to CR500s and the problem went away.

Yellow SL #32

OK - will check everything thoroughly tonight. I have had problems in the past when the connections got wet or oily (don't ask ).

Thanks.

Yellow SL #32

My throttle pedal has a small sleeve around the top which rotates or can be bent to close the hole enough to stop the cable from getting out again.

Yellow SL #32

Could be the audio lead - I'll check that.

I thought we did try with only the new headset unplugged but will double check.

Cheers.

Yellow SL #32

We have recently started to get a whining noise in the headsets of our Autocom. The noise is engine speed related and of course it is intermittent. I have the Autocom mounted in the boot and the wires for the phone and music player run along the tunnel and come out near the handbrake. The headset leads come out over the boot top chassis rail under the tonneau. Moving the phone lead around appears to affect (sometimes eliminating) the noise. I have checked the wires for damage and they are OK. The only change to the setup recently is that we have replaced one of the headsets.

What else should I check and is there a simple way of eliminating the noise?

Yellow SL #32

Arrived yesterday thanks .

Yellow SL #32

The cable and valve might be moving, OK but when the cable is pushed in fully, is the valve properly closed? You may have to adjust the positioning of the cable in the valve opening mechanism - it's fairly obvious how to do that.

Yellow SL #32

Great day. 1st timed run turned out to be my best but steady improvement from 1st practice was good and it is a fun course - just takes some bottle to keep your toe in for best speed through the speed trap.

Gill says "Congratulations to Kate for fastest lady and well done Mrs Kipper for being an inspiration to us all."

See you all at Wiscombe hopefully.

Yellow SL #32

Me too. Accepted for both Cadwell and Harewood so should be a great weekend.

Yellow SL #32

Why not remove the lower damper bolt and then you can undo whichever wishbone bolts you like. I have actually removed the whole of the front hub/suspension in one lump after removing the damper.

Which bush are you replacing - the chassis end or the hub end?

Yellow SL #32

Thanks folks (Matt - got your email ).

Dave - nice description 😬 If I see 110mph I'll be happy (Was about the max I saw at Longcross cos I chickened out ☹️).

Yellow SL #32

Yes please.

shaun dot elwell at blueyonder dot co dot uk

Cheers.

Yellow SL #32

Is there a course map/layout available for MIRA?

Yellow SL #32

The rules are you need a drivers side mirror and one other - see here.

Yellow SL #32

Mick - thanks for that, I am about to phone Think. As the filter housing is on the car now, I'll just have to hope that the thread is NPT and not BSP - Caterham parts are fairly convinced it is NPT so I'll go with that. YWHM shortly.

Yellow SL #32

I've read all the posts I can find on this but still have some issues.

Background - I now have a new oil filter housing (stripped the thread off the old one ☹️) which has the following threaded holes:

1. M12x1.0 at a 45 degree downward angle at the opposite end of the housing to the filter (normal position for the pressure sender)

2. M12x1.0 thread on the top of the housing between the filter and the pressure sender end.

3. 1/8 NPT thread also on the top of the housing.

The M12x1.0 holes are both now blocked using cut down bolts and the 1/8 NPT is blocked with a grub screw.

Now obviously I don't have a pressure sender fitted at the moment. I want to refit the Stack pressure sender (actually a VDO unit) which has, AFAIK, a 1/8 NPT thread (or is that 1/8 BSP - I'm confused by all these different sizes). I would prefer to fit the sender remotely but given I have 2 holes in the top of the filter housing, it doesn't make sense to buy the Caterham kit which will probably include exactly the same housing.

Question 1 - which of the holes would it be best to take a hose from? The M12x1.0 or the 1/8 NPT? And what fitting do I order?

Question 2 - what is the fitting I require at the other end for the Stack sender to screw into?

Quesiton 3 - do I need a part that can be mounted in place of the horn like the Caterham or Think ones or can I just zip tie the sender to the chassis?

Question 4 - does anyone have a photo of either the Caterham or the Think setup?

Question 5 - what is the difference between 1/8 NPT and 1/8 BSP? Is it that the NPT is tapered and the BSP isn't? i.e. does a 1/8 BSP male fit into a 1/8 NPT female?

I would have just ordered the Caterham kit but it appears that it won't fit the Stack sender as the latest Caterham senders are M12x1.0!

Yellow SL #32

Make sure you get the right thread - they have changed over the years. Mine (admittedly for a Stack) is 1/8 NPT whereas the oil filter housing I just bought is M12 fine and before that they were I believe M10 fine.

Yellow SL #32

Supersport R inludes a conversion to 1800.

Yellow SL #32

My first spotted 😬. On our way back from Loton Park hill climb.

Yellow SL #32

Edited by - Shaun_E on 31 Jul 2006 09:04:25

Oh yes and another *thumbup* for Dave.

Yellow SL #32

It depends what needs replacing but it is unlikely to be more than a few hundred pounds. The following are rough costs (prices may have gone up since):

Big end bearings - £50

Main bearings - £50

Thrust washers - £6

Bottom end gasket set - £25

Flywheel bolts - £12

Rod bolts - £24

Head gasket set - £70

Head bolt set - £60

Cambelt - £32

Head skim - £30

Labour to build engine - £500ish

So worst case I would budget about £1000. Of course if there is any damage to pistons, liners, etc. then the costs would increase.

If any future upgrades are planned then it would be worth fitting forged pistons (£500).

Yellow SL #32