Shaun_E

EX24 6JE details here. We're staying in Colyford - which pub are you going to? Yellow SL #32

You could get similar power for less money - have a look here. It is horses for courses though and the advantages to the average buyer of having a factory fit, MOT friendly upgrade are not to be sneezed at. If you are not likely to sell your car and maybe have an eye to future upgrades then the aftermarket route is perhaps better and certainly better value. Yellow SL #32

The standard Caterham air filter for K-series engines is from Pipercross and is good for well over 200bhp (works fine on my 227bhp engine) and is £31.73 from Caterham (see here). Alternatively you can clean and re-oil the one you have but for the price it's probably not worth it. Yellow SL #32

I read that as acknowledgement of application rather than entry. Most of the other sprint organisers have emailed acknowledgement of a place - I hope Wiscombe will too since they requested an email address on the form. Yellow SL #32

Yes you can. The Varley Red Top is an absorbed acid battery i.e. same basic tech as your normal lead acid car battery just that the acid is absorbed in glass mat. I use an Optimate on my Red Top 15. Yellow SL #32

Mine steams up too - never really bothered me that much but I might have a go at fixing it. Yellow SL #32

The pedal position does seem to have moved - i.e. it is now lower than the brake pedal which previously it was more or less level with. This gives me hope that it is just the adjustment or a stretched cable. Dave YHM. Yellow SL #32

Performance Braking Ltd: 01600 713117 They will give you good advice. I went for RS15s for the front and RS14s for the rear - I have AP 4 pots at the front and standard Caterham calipers at the rear. I have fitted the fronts but haven't got around to fitting the rears and braking is fine if a little front biased - I expect once I fit the RS14s to the rear the balance will be close to perfect. Incidently, so far my fronts do not squeal at all. Yellow SL #32

Neil - next you'll be telling me I have too many gears and you'd reluctantly exchange your 5 for my 6 . Yellow SL #32

Mark D - I will check this but I have the latest version of the dry sump fork which is made from girders so hopefully won't be that. Alex - yes could be cable stretch - I'll order a new one just in case it's about to go. Andy - will check the cable. Mark C - you're not wrong there 😬. I'll play with the adjustment. Just in case I'm being a numpty (not unheard of) which way should I adjust it to raise the biting point? Yellow SL #32

Whilst on a high speed run back from Cornwall the biting point of my clutch changed. At the start of the journey the clutch would bite near the top of the pedal travel as it always has done. After a very fast steady speed 6th gear section, the bite point has moved to lower down the pedal travel - i.e. I have to press the pedal further to get the clutch to release. I thought it might have been that the cable adjusters had loosened off and that might still be the case, but is there anything else which would cause this? What other things might I check? Yellow SL #32

Has anyone received instructions for Wiscombe yet? I have no idea if I am in and therefore haven't booked anywhere to stay yet. Has anyone any recommendations for accommodation locally in case we do hear soon? Yellow SL #32

We were the other yellow one that passed you on the way to the Lizard as you were coming back. Yellow SL #32

What size is the thread you are trying to screw it into? The stack sender is 1/8 NPT (a tapered thread). There are at least 3 different oil filter housings for the K series - the sender normally screws into a thread at the opposite end of the housing to the filter at a 45 degree angle from horizontal. The thread could be 1/8 NPT (seems not in your case), M10 fine or M12 fine. On all of them there is a 1/8 NPT thread on the top of the housing which is normally blanked with a grub screw. If you get a hose and fitting from Think Automotive (Ask for Matthew) you can remotely mount the sender using the hole in the top of the housing. I suggest you ask for a straight fitting as I have a right angled one which could foul on the block. You will then need to blank off the other hole with an appropriate bolt and copper washer. Yellow SL #32

David - no I won't be at Curborough as Gill and I are holidaying in Cornwall. Next event is Wiscombe and we will be at Cadwell and Harewood so if you are at any of those events I'll pop over and take a look. Cheers, Shaun Yellow SL #32

Get a longer inner cable - use a bicycle brake or gear cable and cut to length. The nipple end of the cable can be fitted to the pedal and then the cable slid through the outer and connected to the throttle body. Yellow SL #32 Edited by - Shaun_E on 22 Aug 2006 08:54:47

Ian - take lots of pictures please as I won't be at Penn on Saturday and am interested in fitting a DS belt warning system too. Yellow SL #32

Has anyone gone for anything other than the standard Nitron damping setting? For road use I run the dampers on their softest setting and the most I have adjusted them on track is about 6 clicks from soft (measured as 18 from hard) - it seems that I am not getting a practical range of adjustment and wondered whether it would be worth having them revalved to make them a bit softer and allow me to actually use more of the adjustment. When I first fitted them I set them at 12 from hard thinking that halfway would be a good starting point but that was extremely stiff. For info I'm running 250 front springs and 150 rear on a K series car. Yellow SL #32

It would be worth checking it and also doing the mods shown here to improve oil flow. Yellow SL #32

Adjustables are easy to adjust. The standard Caterham ones have 2 rings that the springs sit on - you undo the ring on the non-spring side (it acts as a lock nut) and then rotate the rings together - screw them towards the spring to raise the ride height and away from the spring to lower it. It is easier to do with the car jacked up and with the correct C spanners but I have done it in the past using a screwdriver and mallet to knock the rings around. If your ride height has gone up at the rear then you could just drop it a little bit - if you screw each side by the same number of turns it will be pretty accurate. Yellow SL #32

Or if you're lazy like me just order one from Caterham - they don't cost very much and fit spot on. They use a clamp plate that goes the other side of the grill and 2 bolts but you can just as easily zip tie it to the grille (a tip I discovered after my first event). Yellow SL #32

Knackered battery or knackered alternator. What's the battery voltage with the engine off? Probably best to find one of Chris W's posts on the matter - aah found one for you. Yellow SL #32

Yes - direct from Radtec. Click on Kit Cars. Yellow SL #32

Replacement from Caterham is £183.30 here. The race triple pass rad is £260. You can get a Radtec, which is what I have, for about £200 if you can wangle the discount we got on the bulk buy (no harm in asking). Yellow SL #32

GJT - have you got a death wish 🤔 😬 Good job we haven't been to Penn for a while and won't be going this month either. Yellow SL #32