Shaun_E

Mine steams up too - never really bothered me that much but I might have a go at fixing it.

Yellow SL #32

The pedal position does seem to have moved - i.e. it is now lower than the brake pedal which previously it was more or less level with. This gives me hope that it is just the adjustment or a stretched cable.

Dave YHM.

Yellow SL #32

Performance Braking Ltd: 01600 713117

They will give you good advice. I went for RS15s for the front and RS14s for the rear - I have AP 4 pots at the front and standard Caterham calipers at the rear.

I have fitted the fronts but haven't got around to fitting the rears and braking is fine if a little front biased - I expect once I fit the RS14s to the rear the balance will be close to perfect.

Incidently, so far my fronts do not squeal at all.

Yellow SL #32

Neil - next you'll be telling me I have too many gears and you'd reluctantly exchange your 5 for my 6 .

Yellow SL #32

Mark D - I will check this but I have the latest version of the dry sump fork which is made from girders so hopefully won't be that.

Alex - yes could be cable stretch - I'll order a new one just in case it's about to go.

Andy - will check the cable.

Mark C - you're not wrong there 😬. I'll play with the adjustment.

Just in case I'm being a numpty (not unheard of) which way should I adjust it to raise the biting point?

Yellow SL #32

Whilst on a high speed run back from Cornwall the biting point of my clutch changed. At the start of the journey the clutch would bite near the top of the pedal travel as it always has done. After a very fast steady speed 6th gear section, the bite point has moved to lower down the pedal travel - i.e. I have to press the pedal further to get the clutch to release. I thought it might have been that the cable adjusters had loosened off and that might still be the case, but is there anything else which would cause this? What other things might I check?

Yellow SL #32

Has anyone received instructions for Wiscombe yet?

I have no idea if I am in and therefore haven't booked anywhere to stay yet.

Has anyone any recommendations for accommodation locally in case we do hear soon?

Yellow SL #32

We were the other yellow one that passed you on the way to the Lizard as you were coming back.

Yellow SL #32

What size is the thread you are trying to screw it into?

The stack sender is 1/8 NPT (a tapered thread).

There are at least 3 different oil filter housings for the K series - the sender normally screws into a thread at the opposite end of the housing to the filter at a 45 degree angle from horizontal. The thread could be 1/8 NPT (seems not in your case), M10 fine or M12 fine. On all of them there is a 1/8 NPT thread on the top of the housing which is normally blanked with a grub screw. If you get a hose and fitting from Think Automotive (Ask for Matthew) you can remotely mount the sender using the hole in the top of the housing. I suggest you ask for a straight fitting as I have a right angled one which could foul on the block. You will then need to blank off the other hole with an appropriate bolt and copper washer.

Yellow SL #32

David - no I won't be at Curborough as Gill and I are holidaying in Cornwall. Next event is Wiscombe and we will be at Cadwell and Harewood so if you are at any of those events I'll pop over and take a look.

Cheers,

Shaun

Yellow SL #32

Get a longer inner cable - use a bicycle brake or gear cable and cut to length. The nipple end of the cable can be fitted to the pedal and then the cable slid through the outer and connected to the throttle body.

Yellow SL #32

Edited by - Shaun_E on 22 Aug 2006 08:54:47

Ian - take lots of pictures please as I won't be at Penn on Saturday and am interested in fitting a DS belt warning system too.

Yellow SL #32

Has anyone gone for anything other than the standard Nitron damping setting? For road use I run the dampers on their softest setting and the most I have adjusted them on track is about 6 clicks from soft (measured as 18 from hard) - it seems that I am not getting a practical range of adjustment and wondered whether it would be worth having them revalved to make them a bit softer and allow me to actually use more of the adjustment. When I first fitted them I set them at 12 from hard thinking that halfway would be a good starting point but that was extremely stiff.

For info I'm running 250 front springs and 150 rear on a K series car.

Yellow SL #32

It would be worth checking it and also doing the mods shown here to improve oil flow.

Yellow SL #32

Adjustables are easy to adjust. The standard Caterham ones have 2 rings that the springs sit on - you undo the ring on the non-spring side (it acts as a lock nut) and then rotate the rings together - screw them towards the spring to raise the ride height and away from the spring to lower it.

It is easier to do with the car jacked up and with the correct C spanners but I have done it in the past using a screwdriver and mallet to knock the rings around.

If your ride height has gone up at the rear then you could just drop it a little bit - if you screw each side by the same number of turns it will be pretty accurate.

Yellow SL #32

Or if you're lazy like me just order one from Caterham - they don't cost very much and fit spot on. They use a clamp plate that goes the other side of the grill and 2 bolts but you can just as easily zip tie it to the grille (a tip I discovered after my first event).

Yellow SL #32

Knackered battery or knackered alternator. What's the battery voltage with the engine off? Probably best to find one of Chris W's posts on the matter - aah found one for you.

A fully charged battery should show 12.6v (2.1v per cell) for a lead acid type. It may show higher than this for a few minutes after charging due to the electrolyte's not being mixed properly.

 

Switch on the headlights for 5 minutes and then re-measure; you should find 12.6v. With the engine ON the figure should be around 13.8v to 14.5v depending on the actual alternator and regulator.

 

Have someone crank the engine having disconnected the fuel pump (at the fuel cut-off switch for simplicity) to prevent the engine's starting. Measure the battery voltage whilst cranking. If it's below 9v, the battery needs replacing.

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Yellow SL #32

Yes - direct from Radtec. Click on Kit Cars.

Yellow SL #32

Replacement from Caterham is £183.30 here. The race triple pass rad is £260. You can get a Radtec, which is what I have, for about £200 if you can wangle the discount we got on the bulk buy (no harm in asking).

Yellow SL #32

GJT - have you got a death wish 🤔 😬

Good job we haven't been to Penn for a while and won't be going this month either.

Yellow SL #32

I guess I could drive with ACB10s to Longcross, Curborough, Llandow and MIRA (maybe Loton as well) and see I if could get someone to take the wheels/tyres to the more distant events (Cadwell/Harewood, Wiscombe, etc.). Something to think about I guess. I suppose it would be cheaper to move to Class 4 and then not be reliant on someone else to transport my spare wheels.

Sadly a trailer is out of the question (no room, not even under the 7 in the garage) and my current car can't be fitted with a towbar (but that might change before next season). I also rather like driving to events - makes it more of an occasion somehow.

Yellow SL #32

Not my most flattering side 😳.

Might take you up on that offer once you've got your 15's. I would like to see if they would fit under my front wings. Would solve my ARB clearance issues at the back as well.

Class 4 hmm....

Yellow SL #32

Neil - you've got the extra weight to iron out the bumps .

Rob - if I get a second set of wheels with ACB10's then you reckon I could drive to events with them fitted and still get a seasons wear out of them? I would use my CR500s for road and track days then.

Ooh..I'll have to get my credit card out then.

Yellow SL #32

I have also toyed with the idea of moving to class 4 but I'd still need to buy some new wheels and tyres as it seems there are no decent 13" list 1a tyres anymore. I'm not convinced about using 15" wheels with low profile tyres as road tyres - the ride can't be great.

Oh well, will just have to keep duelling in the middle of class 5 .

Yellow SL #32

I'm with Martin on this one 😬 - extra points for driving to the event sounds like a great idea . Speaking to a colleague who has been racing/sprinting/hillclimbing for years in everything from Elans to Sevens to single seaters, this actually used to be quite common. However competitors used to trailer the car to a nearby car park and then drive a couple of miles to the event to pick up their bonus points therefore defeating the purpose of the rule. I guess at least it meant the cars had to be genuinely roadgoing.

I use CR500s because I drive to events - I understand ACB10 A24 compound wouldn't last 5 minutes on the road - so would be very happy if ACB10s were banned. It might encourage a few more people to compete if they thought it wasn't necessary to trailer the car to events.

That said I'm not really a bah humbug kind of person and wouldn't dream of pushing for this. And anyway I'm toying with the idea of ACB10s for next season and begging someone else to take them to events for me 😬.

Yellow SL #32