Shaun_E

Darren - that's weird. Early DVD recorders usually only recorded one format but most modern players can read just about any format. Yours isn't a DVD-RAM by any chance? See here. Yellow SL #32

Simon, I'm no expert on this stuff (just play around with Pinnacle a bit) but couldn't you just use your video capture software to capture the video from the disk. I assume you have checked that the disk plays in a normal DVD player. Yellow SL #32

True bump steer is a factor of the change in camber as the suspension moves. This can be dialled out a bit on normal Caterhams by raising the steering rack a calculated amount. There are a couple of threads on how to do this if you search in Techtalk. On my car, when I switched to A048Rs, bumpy B-roads became a nightmare and it wasn't bump steer as such but more to do with tramlining. This can be reduced by adding some toe-in. If the car is set up parallel or even with toe out then tramlining will do its best to throw you through the hedge. Yellow SL #32

You can buy the plastic base (no foam or upholstery) from Oxted Trimming for less than £20 - thats what we used to make a foam seat for Gill. Yellow SL #32

Standard AP is fine in my 227bhp K. Caterham have standardized on one clutch as used in the R500 I believe. Not sure whay you mean by "dowel location problem". Yellow SL #32

Standard K series setup is to have the fan come on at around 96 degrees and off again at 92 ish (I can't remember the exact figures). I have mine set the same albeit controlled by the Emerald and I'm using an 82 degree stat. I guess if you have the R500 stat (74 degrees ?) then your setting should be OK but if you are using an 82 degree stat then it is way too low as the fan will be coming on not long after the stat has opened. Yellow SL #32

As I understand it the 6 speed box is normally supplied together with a 3.62 diff and the 5 speed with a 3.92. This means that the difference between the top gears is not as much as is made out and although 4th in the 5 speed is a direct drive, the same as 6th in the 6 speed, the actual mph/rpm in those resepective gears will not be the same due to the different diffs. Bunging this stuff into gearcalc with 195/55R15 tyres gives: 5speed: 21.56 mph per 1000rpm (70mph = 3246rpm) 6speed: 19.26 mph per 1000rpm (70mph = 3634rpm) If you fit a 5 speed with a 3.62 diff then you get 23.35 mph per 1000 rpm and 70mph = 2998rpm (and a theoretical top speed of 175mph ). I suggest that you a) play around with gearcalc (search on here for a link to a copy) and b) get a ride in a 5 speed box car and see if it really does make that much of a difference to you. IMHO it is wind noise that dominates once you reach motorway speeds (and I have a 6 speed, high power K and no carpets or any other form of sound deadening). Yellow SL #32

Fuel tank is something over 30 litres - can't remember exactly. If it's the Caterham dry sump system with the tank in the bellhousing then oil capacity is about 4.5 litres. Not sure what the difference between min and max is but it's not massive - maybe 1/2 litre? Yes the oil should be checked immediately after switching off. Take a look in 7FAQ - more specifically here - for more details. Yellow SL #32

Simon - bit late I know but have just stuck a couple of CDs in the post. Nothing spectacular but shows a beginners attempts at Wiscombe, Harewood and a very foggy Cadwell. I have saved it in AVI as it's the highest quality I can output - hope this is OK. Yellow SL #32

...or the hazard switch. Try switching the hazards on and off lots of times. Yellow SL #32

Anyone got a pair of front wing stays in the standard 13/14" size. Maybe you have moved to the race stays or just have a spare pair kicking around. Yellow SL #32

Well I gave him cash in the end so he was happy. Having pointed out that we shared a dinner table at Anglesey, it suddenly clicked who I was. Said he relies on his daughter to tell him who he knows 😬. Had a reply from Richard Price on my techtalk post to say that he has got 50 profile under standard 13/14" stays so I'll probably go with those. Might need a bit of crowbar effort to make them fit . I did think that 13" wheels would look a bit silly under the 15/16" stays. Yellow SL #32

Richard - that was the answer I was hoping for - thanks. I'm pretty sure my stays are the race version so I will probably order the standard 13/14" stays. Yellow SL #32

See Techtalk here for my question. What size wingstays are people using? What profile stunners (45 or 50)? Yellow SL #32

Will 15" rims fitted with 50 profile Stunners fit under a standard Caterham 13"/14" wingstay? My existing stays are very close to a 13" rim with CR500 fitted so I suspect they may be the race wing stay - the 15" Stunners won't fit under them. I want to be able to switch between 13" and 15" wheels and would prefer not to have a huge gap with 13" rims and 15"/16" stays. If they won't fit a 13"/14"stay would having the 45 profile Stunners make enough difference? Yellow SL #32

Fine - just buy the Draper. I try to give accurate information when responding to questions. If I see misleading information I will correct it. I do understand that the request was for a conditioner but the fact remains that BOSS' post was not correct, irrespective of the original question. Nigel - the Accumate is made by the same company as the Optimate but is designed for slightly larger capacity batteries than the Optimate as well as being 6V/12V switchable. Either can be used on a battery suitable for most sevens but if you wanted to use on a normal car then the Accumate is probably the better bet - just look at the Ah ratings for the two and compare with the battery(ies) you wish to use them on. Yellow SL #32

BOSS - I know we've been through this a million times and I have read all Chris' posts with great care, but the Draper unit will NOT charge your battery it will only condition it. The Optimate is both a battery charger and a battery conditioner. The miniscule current from the Draper unit would take months to charge a flat battery - it will only maintain a fully charge one. Read the post carefully . I made no comment about the Draper's ability to condition a battery. Yellow SL #32

As you don't seem to be getting a real answer, I will have a guess based on having lifted my bare block before the engine was built - I would say somwehere around 20kg +/- 5kg. Yellow SL #32

BOSS - not strictly true. The Draper item is purely a conditioner - it provides a very low continuous current. The Optimate will charge a battery and then maintain it. The current is varied depending on the state of the battery. They even claim it will rescue a deeply discharged or even a sulphated battery. I can't really prove that, but mine did recharge a completely discharged Red Top which has now been going strong for 2 years. Yellow SL #32

Loctite 574 is the stuff you need. Yellow SL #32

No the CR500 isn't available for 14" rims. Only comes in a few sizes see here about half way down the page. Yellow SL #32

SMC round the corner from my work have an unregistered 260 up for £16k. Yellow SL #32

I started with 21s, replaced with another set then moved to 48s and now run CR500s. Here are my thoughts: 21s are a great road tyre - IMHO you don't need anything better on the road. They are good wet or dry although as with all tyres on a Seven you need to be a bit careful in cold wet conditions. On track they are great in the wet but will rapidly overheat on a hot dry track which reduces their grip and they wear very quickly in those conditions. 48s on the road provide lots of grip (as long as it isn't cold and wet) they are fine in the wet although they can aquaplane more easily than 21s. The downside is that they tramline a lot and on a bumpy B road can be a real handful to the point where I added a bit of toe in to try and tame them. On track they are great - loads of grip once warm and acceptable in the wet. They seem to last longer on track than 21s. CR500s are the ultimate 7 road tyre as far as I am concerned. They are a lot lighter than the Yokos, they provide good grip wet or dry and they don't tramline. I have got good wear from them as well (with 227bhp!). On track they are close to 48s (for my skill level) and don't suffer too badly when it's hot and dry - again they are fine in the wet. This is only my experience but it would seem to generally tie up with most of the opinions I have seen and heard. Yellow SL #32 Edited by - Shaun_E on 3 Oct 2006 08:59:50

Have you looked at Dave Andrews K series pages? Yellow SL #32

Mine was dynoed at 227 bhp with BP285H cams and a DVA ported VVC head. I am using single tang rods and a stock crank with a 7800 RPM limit. Done a few thousand miles with it now and one season of sprints. I am using the standard injectors but they are at nearly 100%. The only problem I have had so far was a lunched scavenge pump and pressure pump so we replaced the big ends to be safe as there were signs of oil starvation. The temptation at rebuild time was to go to solid followers and wilder cams but Dave Andrews convinced me to stick with the setup I have. All in, I think it is a good compromise and is a great road engine even if it isn't quite at the top of the class 5 power charts. Mail me if you want more details. Yellow SL #32 Edited by - Shaun_E on 28 Sep 2006 22:30:18 Edited by - Shaun_E on 28 Sep 2006 22:30:58