Shaun_E

It's a Rover part but there are several versions with different thread sizes for the pressure sender. It's not expensive - I think it was around £20-£25 when I replaced mine but I can't be sure.

Yellow SL #32

From the MOT manual:

Lamps incorporating a side repeater are marked either with an 'E' mark in a circle or an 'e' mark in a rectangle above which is a number 5. Some vehicles are fitted with a wraparound lens with no European approval markings. These can be tested by standing approximately 1000mm to the side of the vehicles rear bumper with indicator on. If amber light can be seen coming through the front lens (not a reflection) this is acceptable.

Make your own interpretation and then hope the MOT tester sees it that way too. I disagree with Stu on this, as does my very experienced MOT tester - the text above very clearly states that some cars are NOT fitted with an E marked lens and should be tested as described above. We can argue this as long as you like but the MOT rules, as written, are open to interpretation (as many laws are). You can seek clarification on this if you like but I would just find an MOT tester who agrees with my interpretation!

Yellow SL #32

I've posted this in ChitChat now

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See below for service schedule. I would say definitely change the cam belt and tensioners (switch to manual tensioner if not done already). Then do all the 24000 mile checks/changes.

										First	Every	Every	Every	Every

Service Interval - Miles 500 3000 6000 12000 24000

Applicable to models All Classic All All All

Engine oil Drain and replace l l l l l

Engine oil filter Replace l l l l l

Differential oil level Check and top up l l l l l

Gearbox oil level Check and top up l l l l l

Screen washer fluid level Check and top up l l l l l

Screen washers Check operation and alignment l l l l l

Brake fluid Check level and top up l l l l

Coolant Check level and top up l l l l

Coolant hoses Check for condition, leaks and security l l l l l

Alternator drive belt Check tension & condition, replace if necessary l l l l l

Carburettor Check and set balance and idle settings l l l l l

Lights and bulbs Check all lights and replace bulbs as necessary l l l l l

Switchgear Check operation l l l l l

Wheel nut torques Check for tightness l l l l l

Clutch Check operation l l l l l

Handbrake operation Check and adjust l l l l l

Brake pads Check for wear, replace if necessary l l l l

CV gaitors Check condition l l l l

Tyres Check condition & advise if replacement requiredl l l l

Seatbelts and harnesses Check for condition and operation l l l l

Horn Check l l l l

Wipers Check condition & operation,replace if necessaryl l l l

Steering joints and gaitors Check l l l l

Trunnions (Classic only) Lubricate l l l l

A frame bush Check, replace if necessary l l l l

Wheel bearing endfloat Check and adjust l l l l

Brake hoses Check condition and for leaks l l l

Brake discs Check for condition & wear,replace if necessary l l l

ECU diagnostics Check if possible l l l

Spark plugs Clean and adjust l

Headlight alignment Check and adjust l l l l

Exhaust system Check mountings and exhaust condition l l l

Clutch cable Check condition and adjustment l l l

Suspension security Check and retorque bolts l l l l

Suspension bushes Check and replace if necessary l l l

Wheel alignment Check and adjust if necessary l l l l

Brake pipes and unions Check for security and leaks l l l

Air filter Clean or change if necessary l l

Battery Check security, condition & connections, top up l l

Engine mountings Check l l

Spark plugs Replace l l

Sump foam baffle Replace l l

Fuses Check sizes and integrity, replace if necessary l l

Steering rack Check security and lubricate if necessary l l

Wheel bearings Repack l l

Brake hoses Replace l

Coolant Drain and replace l

Brake fluid Replace l

Fuel filter Replace l

Fuel lines Check for security and leaks l

Coil lead Replace l

Distributor cap Replace l

Rotor arm Replace l

Road test To check dampers,brakes,steering,instruments etc.l l l l l

Cam belts Replace every 48,000 miles, or sooner if preferred.

Yellow SL #32

Edited by - Shaun_E on 29 Nov 2006 14:17:48

Edited by - Shaun_E on 29 Nov 2006 14:27:47

The only company I know of that will insure you separately for track days is Competition Car Insurance part of THB Egger Lawson. The cost per event is quite high (proportional to the value of the car or value insured). Most people who have track day insurance seem have it as part of their road going policy either through Egger Lawson or one of the other Caterham specialist policies (Adrian Flux, Haggerty, Footman James, etc.). Many people do not insure for trackdays.

I am not 100% sure of the policy details but suspect it only covers your own car. On trackdays you sign a disclaimer and its every man for himself - if another car hits you you have no automatic right to claim against them. Having said that, most track day incidents are car meets scenery incidents rather than car hits car.

Yellow SL #32

*thumbup* for maximum 215 radials all round, but no restriction seems necessary on rim width.

Yellow SL #32

Edited by - Shaun_E on 27 Nov 2006 15:12:36

In the past I have used a bit of 2x2 wood across the top of the boot to place the cup on.

If you can make it to Penn Sevens on Saturday, I'll bring the "pliers" tool that doesn't need the cover to be removed. You'll need to get there early as I need to leave soon after 1.00.

Yellow SL #32

Edited by - Shaun_E on 23 Nov 2006 21:54:56

To be honest, probably best to go back to Gary and ask him to raise the car by 15mm. You could do this yourself if you measure the ride height first - adjust each side an equal number of turns and maintain the same rake front to back - plenty of posts in techtalk on how to do this. To raise the ride height you screw the adjusters towards the spring.

Yellow SL #32

I've got the race stays and 195/50 Stunners will not fit under them - I'm not convinced the 195/45s will either but I don't know for sure. I doubt that 185/70 A021Rs will fit either. 185/60 A021Rs or 185/60 A048Rs will both fit although getting them on and off is a bit tricky as they can foul the wing as they come off.

Avon changed the compound of the CR500 a while ago and it is possible that your spare is the old compound - you need to check before buying a single tyre to match it.

Yellow SL #32

VHPD with Jenvey's, Emerald and Verniers should see you over 200bhp - it's probably better than a stock R400. See you in class 5 .

Darren Luke has managed some very good times in an R400 e.g at Mira and Longcross where he beat a host of more powerful machinery, so you won't be hugely outgunned.

My car is nearly 230bhp but I can't get close to the top guys - when I can get within a second or so of them then I'll worry about power, tyres, etc.

Have fun! 😬

Yellow SL #32

It's a job for 2 people or one with very long arms 😬.

Standard fit is a bolt through the runner and floor with a nut underneath. It's usually possible to wedge a spanner on the bolt and then undo the nut from underneath. It's much easier if one person can get a spanner on the bolt and the other undo the nut, especially for the inner bolts as it's impossible for even an Orangutan to reach both.

There are 4 bolts to each seat and you need to slide the seat forward to get at the rears and backwards to get at the fronts.

There are lots of tips on making it easier next time - use caphead bolts, weld the bolts to the runners, etc. I've never bothered and I've had the seats out 3 or 4 times - I just call my glamorous assistant 😬 to help.

Yellow SL #32

Limiting to 205 section would outlaw the CSR260 in standard set-up.

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What would be the best value wheels to mount these on?

I am thinking of 185/60 front and 205 rear (probably the Toyo R888 although I'm not ruling out the Kumho just yet).

I could go for another set of 6" and 8" caterham 8 spokes but I was thinking of maybe the Compomotive CXR. Would 6" and 7" be better? What offsets would I need?

Yellow SL #32

There will always be some 🙆🏻 who has that attitude. To them I say - why not just pop to the local trophy shop and buy some cups, have your name engraved on them, pop them on the mantelpiece and tell everyone what a hero you are.

Yellow SL #32

Agree with Rob - this will put off people with standard cars joining class 4. BECs enjoy an advantage that belies their power outputs - as shown by Dave's comments. There are very few fireblades and blackbirds around. The previous class structure would have likely seen these cars in class 5 anyway.

And I want to be competing in clas 5 against Martin Bushaway 😬

Yellow SL #32

That's the one.

The hollow tube on the left is the punch for making a hole in the fabric. The solid tool in the middle is the punch to flare the popper and the plastic bit is what the popper sits in when you hit the punch with a hammer. It's all fairly obvious once you get it and a popper in front of you.

Yellow SL #32

Get the tool and some spare poppers from Jill Judd at Soft bits for Sevens. I find theirs easier to use than the one from Caterham - it seems to be a better shape.

I have also found a tool in the local arts and crafts shop which is like a large pair pf pliers with a cup on one jaw and the popper tool on the other (they are interchangeable for different types of poppers). It was only about £10 and makes the job really easy - only any good for poppers on the edge of an item.

Yellow SL #32

I would go for the standard Caterham AP clutch (sourced from wherever you like ) - it's plenty good enough for that power level.

I like the lightweight flywheel but it might take some getting used to having the revs die away so quickly. Caterham only do the R500 really lightweight one now so unless you find a second hand one you won't get the "intermediate" one that was fitted to the original Superlight.

I'd go for the airbox on the grounds of induction noise. It also means you can use your existing filter whereas you would have to purchase a different filter to use on the TBs without an airbox.

Yellow SL #32

You take all the rotating parts (crank, flywheel, clutch cover, crank pulley - don't think I've forgotten anything) to Steve Smith at Vibration Free and collect a few days later with a perfectly balanced set up. It is like a very accurate wheel balance.

Yellow SL #32

Probably easiest to use a gasket scraper. There is a solvent for silicone - I've seen it in B&Q for removing bathroom sealant.

Yellow SL #32

The switch itself is known to fail. Swap the connectors round on the switch and if you now have dip but no main beam then you have your answer - and that would be easier to drive home with.

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Dan - a very kind offer but I think I'll pass on that one 😬. Guess I'll just have to keep practising.

Yellow SL #32

It's easy to make the change at DVLA - just fill in the new number and note the new capacity on the V5 and send it off. When I changed my engine Dave made a note of the engine number before it was ground off and I used this on the form - I haven't stamped it on the engine. I would just use the number you have and ignore the 2 digits you can't read - I don't think it is that important. Alternatively you could keep the same engine number and grind it off your 1.4 should you sell it on.

If your car was kit built then it is visibile smoke test only so it doesn't matter what the computer says. My first MOT with the computerised system was this year and we selected what the car was before the engine replacement (1600 in my case) to get the right model. If your car was factory built then you will need to pass whatever emissions test the 1.4 needed.

Yellow SL #32

Neil - it actually just shows that your lardy 🙆🏻 car has more traction. 😬 😬

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And here is a picture of my car with the new 13" rims in matt black. And another.

Yellow SL #32