Shaun_E

Paul - I can't find any reference to where I got my stuff from but I found this.

You can't get much cheaper than this.

The adaptor is here. I have a feeling that was the supplier I used but I can't remember exactly. They also sell a cheap ball head here.

Hope that helps but I would call the supplier to check that the adaptor is the correct one.

Shaun

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Paul - if your video camera supports more than 480 lines then I'd go for package 5 if not stick with package 4. The low light one isn't really neeeded.

I use the LANC sport and it is all you need for recording in car. If you mount your camcorder in the boot then get an extension lead as well - the supplied lead isn't really long enough.

To attach the bullet cam to the clamp you will need a ball head like the Manfrotto 486 about half way down this page and possibly an adaptor to join the two together. You can get cheaper ones but I can't find one at the moment. Ultimately it might be nearly as cheap to get the proper Demon Tweeks bullet cam mount (about £90) or something similar.

I'll see if I can find the site I got my ball head from as I'm sure it was less than £20 and the adaptor was less than £10.

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Robin - Gill and I are planning to camp on the Friday night. I expect we'll get there about 9ish.

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Bri - it's one of your's that I have. I'ts just been sat on the shelf as I have had no need to drain the coolant until now.

As Ged points out the hose is 16mm. If the tee is 5/8" then there is a small discrepancy (0.2mm by my calculations). With rubber hoses I would not have given this a second thought but I have had trouble getting silicone ones to seal and in fact swapped back to rubber for the radiator bottom hose.

I will try a bit of silicone gasket as suggested.

Cheers.

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I've used 27Amp which is the biggest gauge that Halfords sell - it's thicker than the original.

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I have a bleed tee ready to fit but when I tried it for size in the heater top hose (which is silicone), it wasn't a very tight fit. As I have had problems getting silicone hoses to seal in the past I was reluctant to fit the tee.

Has anyone fitted a tee with silicone hoses?

Was the tee a tight fit with rubber hoses?

Anyone had problems with their tee?

Cheers,

Shaun

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Ah.. but ric does yours go over the top or round the bottom 🤔

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Arrived this morning so should be on the car this evening! Cost me £16 + p&p .

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Normal position is on the outside but if you run wider wheels (8") then you will need to move them to the inside to avoid them fouling. So really it doesn't matter which side they are - I have run both positions and had no issues (although on very, very hard track cornering the drop link does just touch the tyre ).

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Rob - it has a different arrangement of inlet/outlet. I now know that the newer (EU3?) one can be used.

Mark - I won the auction for the ebay one so hope I will get it by the weekend. Cheers.

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See my wanted post here. Repairs to existing one unsuccessful so need a new one in order to make Shelsley.

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Edited by - Shaun_E on 22 Jun 2007 10:13:58

Why not get BGH to rebuild/refurb your box - at the same time you can get better ratios fitted.

Shaun

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A temporary fix is to grease the splines heavily - this seems to be enough to take up the slack. The downside is of course that should you remove the wheel you will almost certainly get grease on your clothes when you exit the car.

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Hold button 1 and press either 3 or 4 - can't remember which but the other one resets the tell tales so wont do anything bad. That's for the aftermarket dash - no idea whether the Caterham supplied one works in the same way.

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The pressure does drop slightly when an Apollo is fitted. When hot, pressure at idle should be around 2 bar (30 psi) and at revs around 4 bar (60 psi). I wouldn't worry unless at idle it drops to 25psi or lower.

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The other advantage is that they are easy to peel off the backing sheet (unlike the numbers I previously had from GPR where the backing is cut to the shape of the number and virtually impossible to separate from the number).

Rob - I too find the layer of dirt on the car makes removal easy! 😬

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At the weekend a couple of people asked where I got my race numbers from. They came from an ebay seller called dungeonmaster1972 -see here.

They are 9" high but slimmer than the usual numbers. They take a couple of weeks to arrive but that was stated in the auction details. Price was £20 for 100 numbers (10 of each) which works out cheaper than GPR/DT especially as delivery was included. They are nothing special but at least there is an alternative to the usual suspects.

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Gear lever needs removing.

It is probably easier to take engine and gearbox out together otherwise you have to support the gearbox at the front while the engine comes out.

Have something under the car to catch the gearbox oil as the propshaft slides out.

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Cracking weekend. Great trackday on Friday, slightly disappointing Saturday (but it was dry) and then a fantastic day today with the weather staying dry until the end. Got home about an hour and a half ago absolutely shattered but still with a big grin.

Signed,

The Re-Run King 😬

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See here - look in the little box at the bottom right.

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It is a tiny crack in the pipe where the forward mount is brazed to it. I don't have time before Friday's track day to take it off, fix it and refill the system ☹️ (nor do I have a new gasket). Have tried some of that metal epoxy but can't get it to seal quickly enough before the coolant starts to come through.

I'll just have to keep an eye on the temperature tomorrow.

Assuming it survives the weekend I'll take it off next week and get it brazed.

Brent - can I give you a call next week to arrange getting it to you?

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Thank you Brent.

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Good point Angus - I haven't actually checked that - will do tonight. Come to think of it, when I jacked the front of the car up the drip stopped - doh. 😳 I guess the trauma of fitting the engine mount bolts was all too much for me.

Dave - let me know if you have got one as I may still be interested.

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Cheers - I'll try some chemical metal and if that doesn't hold I'll get it brazed.

I did look on the website and it is £90 for a new one but it is a different design to the one I have. Looks like repair is therefore the only option.

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While replacing the engine mount bolts that mysteriously vanished (nightmare job ) I noticed some coolant on the oil filter. Traced this to a slight weep from the water rail where the forward mount is welded to it. I will order a new one but this will be too late for a track day and 2 sprints this weekend at Pembrey. Question is - will it survive if I keep an eye on coolant level? Is there a temporary fix I could get done - welded or soldered maybe - preferably without having to drain the coolant. If so any recommendation within 1/2 hour or so drive of Slough would be appreciated.

If anyone has a surplus EU2 water rail then I would gratefully take it off your hands.

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