Shaun_E

Hope you enjoyed your hols. Yellow SL #32 - member of Drowned Rat Racing

Angus - it's owned by a bloke on Pistonheads vixpy1. From what i understand he just provides the facilities - you'll need to do your own mapping or bring someone along who can do it for you. Yellow SL #32 - member of Drowned Rat Racing

Will these be up before the weekend? Not that it makes much odds to me but it would be nice to see where people stand before the penultimate round. Yellow SL #32 - member of Drowned Rat Racing

Martin - the first type you describe fits onto the single diagonal FIA bar and is what I fit to my car for sprints. The second type requires the twin diagonal (Caged) bar. Yellow SL #32 - member of Drowned Rat Racing

The flexible brake hoses take a fair bit of punishment (flexing mostly) and as they are braided you can't see any damage that may be occurring in the rubber. It is sensible to replace these every couple of years which is also a good time to replace the brake fluid as over time it will absorb water reducing it's effectiveness. Yellow SL #32 - member of Drowned Rat Racing

Yes you can swap the seats around and yes there is a roll bar mounted headrest available. It is designed for motorsport and as such comes with no padding on it so you will need to add your own pad. The part you need isn't on the online store but looks like this one. There is also a steady bar available for it. You need to tell them which rollbar you have when you order it. I believe it is only available for FIA approved roll bars. Yellow SL #32 - member of Drowned Rat Racing

Sold to FTH. Sorry Darren - easier for me to sell as a pair. Yellow SL #32 - member of Drowned Rat Racing

Having switched to Tillets, my old S types are for sale. These are from a 1997 car and are in need of some TLC. Seat 1 is perfectly usable as is and comes with adjustable runners. The negative side is that the plastic back is attached with gaffer tape - a new back would ideally be required (there are instructions on Blatchat on how to do this somewhere). The leather is in pretty good condition with no tears just a few minor scuffs. Seat 1 Images: Front view Side view Backrest Squab Damaged back Seat 2 has a broken seat frame which could easily be repaired by a competent welder. The seat is in otherwise decent condition but it does not come with adjustable runners (I used them to make my passenger seat Tillet adjustable). Seat 2 Images: Front view Side view Back Broken frame Broken frame closeup I think these are worth maybe £200 as, with a bit of work, you would end up with a good pair of seats - I am however open to reasonable offers. Replacement runners can be purchased from Caterham. Collection from Slough or GONADS as they are a bit bulky and heavy to post. If necessary I could put them on a courier at buyers cost but I have no idea what that cost would be. If you want to see higher resolution pictures then Blatmail me your email address and I'll send them to you. Yellow SL #32 - member of Drowned Rat Racing

Darren - i found this on the Dyno-Plot website. Yellow SL #32 - member of Drowned Rat Racing

205/60R13 Toyo R888s are fine on an 8" rim. Yellow SL #32 - member of Drowned Rat Racing

Or d) put the drop link on the other size of the ARB? You can reverse the drop link so it sits inside the ARB. You may then need to grind a bit off the ends of the bolts but it should be OK. Yellow SL #32 - member of Drowned Rat Racing

Some infor here on the Scholar block. Yellow SL #32 - member of Drowned Rat Racing

Hi Mark - Gill and I will be camping Saturday night but decided to make the trip up early Saturday morning rather than spend 2 nights under canvas. Yellow SL #32 - member of Drowned Rat Racing

Richard - yes they are standard VVC valves (which are the same size as the VHPD/MS2 ones). Dave Andrews did a full porting job on the head and the throttle bodies are port matched as well. Obviously the VVC mechanism has been junked and a Piper blanking kit fitted. It's a fantastic engine - great on the road including trickling through traffic yet has plenty of go for track/sprinting. I would have chosen the Omega pistons only because they would have made the engine even more fit and forget than it is. The temptation to go to solid lifters and wilder cams is ever present but this would reduce the tractability for road use, significantly increase the stress on the engine and require more regular refreshes. Yellow SL #32 - member of Drowned Rat Racing

Scholar block has 2 things going for it: 1) Eliminates any issue with liner heights 2) extra 100c not to be sniffed at Having made that decision you then don't get much choice in pistons. Scholar provide Pistal pistons (which I have in my engine) but these are a "slipper" design which I understand means they have a very short piston skirt. It makes them very light but they should really be inspected regularly (depending on usage). Just after my engine was completed, Omega developed an 82mm piston for this application and I would probably have gone that route. My target was 200bhp and with Jenvey's, BP285H cams (hydraulic lifters retained), DVA Power full porting job on VVC head, Bernard Scouse airbox, Caterham VHPD 4-2-1 exhaust and an Emerald ECU the engine made 227bhp and 167lbft on Emerald's rollers. Yellow SL #32 - member of Drowned Rat Racing

You need one of these. Yellow SL #32 - member of Drowned Rat Racing

When you move the pedals towards the driver, they sit higher unless you adjust the thing they are acting on. It's difficult to explain without a picture but if you imagine the top of the pedal stays where is is - when you move the pivot point towards you the bottom end of the pedal moves up - do it with a pencil and you'll see what I mean. This can easily be corrected for clutch and throttle by adjusting the cables (assuming cable operated clutch) to allow the top of the pedal to move towards you. It is more difficult with the brake as, although there is a rod with adjuster nuts on it, you rapdily run out of adjustment. My solution was to cut a bit off the end of the brake master cylinder rod. Yellow SL #32 - member of Drowned Rat Racing

The "Caterham Race Starter", a Bosch unit, has been serving me very well for the last couple of years but you may struggle to fit it with a 4-1 exhaust. I believe Angus took a hammer to primay number 4 to make some clearance - I took the more expensive route of fitting a 4-2-1 VHPD exhaust. One thing to check is your engine earth - I had a starting problem which turned out to be the earth strap from the battery to the bellhousing had come loose. You should also check the earth strap from engine to chassis on the front drivers side of the engine. Another thing you could try is renewing the wire to the solenoid (the thin wire). Strip back the harness as far as you can and cut away the old wire - attach a length of new, thicker wire using a crimp connection plus solder and then make sure the attachment to the solenoid is good and tight. Yellow SL #32 - member of Drowned Rat Racing

I sold a set of 4 as new 15" wheels with as new Stunner Scudos for £400. Do a search of for sale and see what others have sold for. For info a set of 5 new 15" wheels fitted with CR500s is over £1000. What you get for them will depend on condition. Yellow SL #32 - member of Drowned Rat Racing

...and I have bought Allister's. Yellow SL #32 - member of Drowned Rat Racing

No sump gasket required - use Loctite 574 or similar. Use the same for the tower to bell housing interface. Edited to say - beaten to it by a much more comprehensive answer. Yellow SL #32 - member of Drowned Rat Racing Edited by - Shaun_E on 13 Aug 2007 16:07:56

OK - see you then. Yellow SL #32 - member of Drowned Rat Racing

I wouldn't recommend it - a bit low in hot viscosity. Caterham currently recommend 5W50 but I'm sure most people use a 0W40 (e.g. Mobil 1), 5W40 or even 10W40. The certification required is ACEA A3. Yellow SL #32 - member of Drowned Rat Racing

Hi Martin - I have one. It's used but undamaged. I can bring to Curborough or stick it in the post to you. Yellow SL #32 - member of Drowned Rat Racing

I'm running the softer (SG) compound front and rear - but that is for sprinting/hillclimbing. I have driven 1000 miles and done 3 sprints on them and they are holding up OK. I doubt they would last 5 minutes on a trackday though. I would probably go for the 2G compound for road/track use. Yellow SL #32 - member of Drowned Rat Racing