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Shaun_E

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Posts posted by Shaun_E

    Headrests

    in TechTalk

    Posted

    Yes you can swap the seats around and yes there is a roll bar mounted headrest available. It is designed for motorsport and as such comes with no padding on it so you will need to add your own pad. The part you need isn't on the online store but looks like this one. There is also a steady bar available for it. You need to tell them which rollbar you have when you order it. I believe it is only available for FIA approved roll bars.

     

    Yellow SL *cool* #32 - member of Drowned Rat Racing

    Pair of S type leather seats in need of repair/refurb.

    in For Sale

    Posted

    Having switched to Tillets, my old S types are for sale. These are from a 1997 car and are in need of some TLC.

    Seat 1 is perfectly usable as is and comes with adjustable runners. The negative side is that the plastic back is attached with gaffer tape - a new back would ideally be required (there are instructions on Blatchat on how to do this somewhere). The leather is in pretty good condition with no tears just a few minor scuffs.

    Seat 1 Images:

    Front view

    Side view

    Backrest

    Squab

    Damaged back

     

    Seat 2 has a broken seat frame which could easily be repaired by a competent welder. The seat is in otherwise decent condition but it does not come with adjustable runners (I used them to make my passenger seat Tillet adjustable).

    Seat 2 Images:

    Front view

    Side view

    Back

    Broken frame

    Broken frame closeup

     

    I think these are worth maybe £200 as, with a bit of work, you would end up with a good pair of seats - I am however open to reasonable offers. Replacement runners can be purchased from Caterham.

    Collection from Slough or GONADS as they are a bit bulky and heavy to post. If necessary I could put them on a courier at buyers cost but I have no idea what that cost would be. If you want to see higher resolution pictures then Blatmail me your email address and I'll send them to you.

     

    Yellow SL *cool* #32 - member of Drowned Rat Racing

    Forged pistons/1900 cc

    in TechTalk

    Posted

    Richard - yes they are standard VVC valves (which are the same size as the VHPD/MS2 ones).

    Dave Andrews did a full porting job on the head and the throttle bodies are port matched as well. Obviously the VVC mechanism has been junked and a Piper blanking kit fitted. It's a fantastic engine - great on the road including trickling through traffic yet has plenty of go for track/sprinting. I would have chosen the Omega pistons only because they would have made the engine even more fit and forget than it is.

    The temptation to go to solid lifters and wilder cams is ever present but this would reduce the tractability for road use, significantly increase the stress on the engine and require more regular refreshes.

     

    Yellow SL *cool* #32 - member of Drowned Rat Racing

    Forged pistons/1900 cc

    in TechTalk

    Posted

    Scholar block has 2 things going for it:

    1) Eliminates any issue with liner heights

    2) extra 100c not to be sniffed at

    Having made that decision you then don't get much choice in pistons. Scholar provide Pistal pistons (which I have in my engine) but these are a "slipper" design which I understand means they have a very short piston skirt. It makes them very light but they should really be inspected regularly (depending on usage). Just after my engine was completed, Omega developed an 82mm piston for this application and I would probably have gone that route.

    My target was 200bhp and with Jenvey's, BP285H cams (hydraulic lifters retained), DVA Power full porting job on VVC head, Bernard Scouse airbox, Caterham VHPD 4-2-1 exhaust and an Emerald ECU the engine made 227bhp and 167lbft on Emerald's rollers.

     

    Yellow SL *cool* #32 - member of Drowned Rat Racing

    Pedal height adjustment?

    in TechTalk

    Posted

    When you move the pedals towards the driver, they sit higher unless you adjust the thing they are acting on. It's difficult to explain without a picture but if you imagine the top of the pedal stays where is is - when you move the pivot point towards you the bottom end of the pedal moves up - do it with a pencil and you'll see what I mean. This can easily be corrected for clutch and throttle by adjusting the cables (assuming cable operated clutch) to allow the top of the pedal to move towards you. It is more difficult with the brake as, although there is a rod with adjuster nuts on it, you rapdily run out of adjustment. My solution was to cut a bit off the end of the brake master cylinder rod.

     

    Yellow SL *cool* #32 - member of Drowned Rat Racing

    Starters again

    in TechTalk

    Posted

    The "Caterham Race Starter", a Bosch unit, has been serving me very well for the last couple of years but you may struggle to fit it with a 4-1 exhaust. I believe Angus took a hammer to primay number 4 to make some clearance - I took the more expensive route of fitting a 4-2-1 VHPD exhaust.

    One thing to check is your engine earth - I had a starting problem which turned out to be the earth strap from the battery to the bellhousing had come loose. You should also check the earth strap from engine to chassis on the front drivers side of the engine.

    Another thing you could try is renewing the wire to the solenoid (the thin wire). Strip back the harness as far as you can and cut away the old wire - attach a length of new, thicker wire using a crimp connection plus solder and then make sure the attachment to the solenoid is good and tight.

     

     

    Yellow SL *cool* #32 - member of Drowned Rat Racing

    wheels & tyres

    in For Sale

    Posted

    I sold a set of 4 as new 15" wheels with as new Stunner Scudos for £400. Do a search of for sale and see what others have sold for. For info a set of 5 new 15" wheels fitted with CR500s is over £1000. What you get for them will depend on condition.

     

    Yellow SL *cool* #32 - member of Drowned Rat Racing

    CC Dry sump pieces K

    in TechTalk

    Posted

    No sump gasket required - use Loctite 574 or similar. Use the same for the tower to bell housing interface.

     

    Edited to say - beaten to it by a much more comprehensive answer.

     

    Yellow SL *cool* #32 - member of Drowned Rat Racing

     

     

    Edited by - Shaun_E on 13 Aug 2007 16:07:56

    Castrol Edge Oil

    in TechTalk

    Posted

    I wouldn't recommend it - a bit low in hot viscosity.

    Caterham currently recommend 5W50 but I'm sure most people use a 0W40 (e.g. Mobil 1), 5W40 or even 10W40. The certification required is ACEA A3.

     

    Yellow SL *cool* #32 - member of Drowned Rat Racing

    R888 - Where and which?

    in TechTalk

    Posted

    I'm running the softer (SG) compound front and rear - but that is for sprinting/hillclimbing. I have driven 1000 miles and done 3 sprints on them and they are holding up OK. I doubt they would last 5 minutes on a trackday though.

    I would probably go for the 2G compound for road/track use.

     

    Yellow SL *cool* #32 - member of Drowned Rat Racing

    Toyo R888

    in TechTalk

    Posted

    slysee - I haven't tried the R888s in 2G compund but reports from others seem favourable. I expect they will not go off as quickly as the CR500s and will give better dry grip. Even if they don't last any longer they are at least cheaper. I used to run Yoko A048s and they were better than CR500s on track. IMO though you can't beat the CR500 on road because of how light they are and how supple the side walls are which gives the best ride out of any of the tyres I have tried.

    Having said that, when my current CR500s die I will be fitting a set of 2G R888s for road and track use.

     

    Yellow SL *cool* #32 - member of Drowned Rat Racing

    tillet seats

    in For Sale

    Posted

    Andy/Allister,

    If Sean doesn't come back to you then I would like to buy a pair of Tillets. Blatmail me or call 07736 017315.

    Thanks,

    Shaun

     

    Yellow SL *cool* #32 - member of Drowned Rat Racing

    Toyo R888

    in TechTalk

    Posted

    Just for information, I'm running the SG compound (that's the very soft one) for sprinting. As I drive to events (no trailer) they are also clocking up some road miles. So far they have been to Shelsley Walsh, Loton Park and Harewood (thats around 1000 road miles plus the events) and are holding up pretty well. Not that I would recommend them as a general purpose tyre (I have CR500s for road and track days) but I'm hoping they will last me a full season of events even driving to each one.

     

    Yellow SL *cool* #32 - member of Drowned Rat Racing

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