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Shaun_E

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Posts posted by Shaun_E

  1. I'm also running 185 front, 205 rear SG compaound R888s for sprinting/hillclimbing in the club championship (class 5). As I drive to all events, I have been clocking up a fair few road miles as well. I fitted them halfway through the season so I have driven from Slough to Shelsley, Loton, Harewood, Curbourough and Wiscombe and competed at each of those events. All events were in the dry apart from Shelsley. I reckon the tyres should last for all of next season as well. They are much better than the CR500s I have for normal road use (and competed on before fitting the Toyos). Are they as good as the Kumhos? I don't know as none of the fastest competitors are using R888s and I am not very quick, but I do know they have given me a lot of confidence and all my times have improved this year compared with last.

    As a road tyre they offer enourmous grip but I suspect you might only get a maximum of 2-3000 miles out of them and probably a lot less if you are a hooligan in a big bhp car. In the wet they are fine but as with all tyres of this type, care is needed in standing water/heavy rain.

     

    Yellow SL *cool* #32 - member of Drowned Rat Racing

  2. Sticking to the point, I don't think the rule changes actually altered things much for this year other than reduce the class 4 field. The upside to that was an improvement in the class 5 field. The switch to radials only didn't change much as all the top runners used soft Kumhos,but I think it has removed a perceived barrier to entry.

    I guess it will take a while for newcomers to join and swell the class 4 ranks - maybe some class 3 people moving up will even things out a bit.

    The scoring is simpler and easier to understand and seems to have removed some of the wild inconsistencies (like my 20.5 points at Wiscombe last year!).

    Whatever, it was a great season and Gill and I will both be back next year. I'll be fighting it out at the bottom of the table in class 5!

     

    p.s. Lynda - hasn't Kate won the ladies this year?

     

    Yellow SL *cool* #32 - member of Drowned Rat Racing

  3. Use masking tape to protect the paintwork around where the front suspension is to be fitted (and anywhere else there is the possibility of tool to paint contact!). Tape cardboard to the side and back panels to prevent damage during assembly.

    For intital rust proofing use Waxoyl or Dinitrol. The important areas are between the inner and outer sideskins especially the "grot trap" between the footwell and the outer side skin.

    If you must fit carpets then attach them with velcro so you can easily remove them when they get wet (they will!).

    Personally I wouldn't bother drilling out the rivnuts for the rear wings - if you ever have to remove the wing then worry about it then.

    Above all enjoy the build.

     

    Yellow SL *cool* #32 - member of Drowned Rat Racing

  4. Chris - you could try Apex Fasteners on the Slough trading estate (Ipswich Road) - I haven't seen large head rivets but Apex do carry a wide range of stock. I get loads of bolts, rivets, rivnuts, etc. from them.

     

    Yellow SL *cool* #32 - member of Drowned Rat Racing

  5. Ed - epoxy survived the trackday just but the two sprints over the next 2 days killed it. I got the car home without incident and then had the water rail brazed around the crack. Unfortunately this didn't cure the leak and I ended up buying one from ebay for £20. If you can find a good secondhand one then do, else you will have to get it repaired - just make sure you have tested the repair throroughly. The new style one does fit apparently but connections and sensors may be in slightly different places causing some minor headaches.

     

    Yellow SL *cool* #32 - member of Drowned Rat Racing

  6. Red Tops are AGM batteries - as are Odyssey. They are actually pretty hard to kill but if it won't hold a charge then you'll need a new one. A good charger like Optimate may rescue it but no guarantees.

     

    Yellow SL *cool* #32 - member of Drowned Rat Racing

  7. My 1900K has a VVC head (VVC mech removed) fully ported by Dave Andrews and uses Piper BP285H cams. With Jenvey DTHTBs and an Emerald ECU it produced 227bhp and 167lbft on Emerald's rollers. Have a look at the power plot here. It makes a brilliant road engine - easier to drive than the Supersport it started life as. It will trickle around town when required yet provides effortless overtaking and is also ample on track.

    I had the bottom end balanced by Vibration Free. The pistons are forged (by Pistal), the rods are single tang but otherwise standard and the crank is standard. Peak power is around 7800-8000rpm so I have limited the revs to 7800.

     

    Yellow SL *cool* #32 - member of Drowned Rat Racing

  8. Big thanks to Geoff for yesterday. Had a great day on a fast and challenging circuit. Even the forecast rain stayed away other than one brief shower in the afternoon. It was my first time there since my engine upgrade and the Stack telltale shows 130mph *eek* - and that is with a windscreen fitted. I'll have to try it with the aero next time!

     

    Yellow SL *cool* #32 - member of Drowned Rat Racing

  9. What a fantastic season it has been. Many thanks to Mark for making it so and to the others who helped in various ways. Gill and I have thoroughly enjoyed ourselves at the 11 rounds we attended and are looking forward to next year. I'm getting withdrawal already 😳. Hope to see a few of you at the awards bash.

     

    Yellow SL *cool* #32 - member of Drowned Rat Racing

  10. Will we be able to camp at Snetterton on the Sunday night?

    I know we can stay camped at the showground but thought it might be easier to potter over to the circuit on the Sunday night rather than getting up early to pack the tent away and drive there Monday morning.

     

    Yellow SL *cool* #32 - member of Drowned Rat Racing

  11. Angus - it's owned by a bloke on Pistonheads vixpy1. From what i understand he just provides the facilities - you'll need to do your own mapping or bring someone along who can do it for you.

     

    Yellow SL *cool* #32 - member of Drowned Rat Racing

  12. Will these be up before the weekend? Not that it makes much odds to me but it would be nice to see where people stand before the penultimate round.

     

    Yellow SL *cool* #32 - member of Drowned Rat Racing

  13. Martin - the first type you describe fits onto the single diagonal FIA bar and is what I fit to my car for sprints. The second type requires the twin diagonal (Caged) bar.

     

    Yellow SL *cool* #32 - member of Drowned Rat Racing

  14. The flexible brake hoses take a fair bit of punishment (flexing mostly) and as they are braided you can't see any damage that may be occurring in the rubber. It is sensible to replace these every couple of years which is also a good time to replace the brake fluid as over time it will absorb water reducing it's effectiveness.

     

    Yellow SL *cool* #32 - member of Drowned Rat Racing

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