Shaun_E

Not required at all for the MOT see here, after all how can they test it? It may of course be part of Construction and Use regulations. Yellow SL #32 - member of Drowned Rat Racing

5/32" which is almost 4mm. Yellow SL #32 - member of Drowned Rat Racing

I think it unlikely that the rivnuts will fill the hole adequately ☹️ but it might depend on the amount of stress that will be applied to whatever you are fixing to the bulkhead. Would it be possible to put an M7 washer behind the bulkhead and fix the rivnut through that? Yellow SL #32 - member of Drowned Rat Racing

Some photos of my car pre and post rebuild here. I went from 7" chrome to 5 3/4" black. Yellow SL #32 - member of Drowned Rat Racing

I don't mean to upset your sale but, for a normal S3 chassis these are priced at £285 on Caterham's website - the SV/CSR one is £400. If it includes the stanchions then that would add £100 to the new price. Yellow SL #32 - member of Drowned Rat Racing

As Mark says - Loctite 574 is the stuff - RS Components sell it (make sure you are sitting down when you order it though). Yellow SL #32 - member of Drowned Rat Racing

It goes a long way and sticks like sh*t to a blanket! Make sure you wear gloves! It doesn't chip or crack like Hammerite does. Yellow SL #32 - member of Drowned Rat Racing

I've always found the Halfords sticky pads work well. As you have done, get the surface of the screen absolutely clean (I use a "glasscutter" product from Halfords) and the mirror mounting surface as well. Then warm the screen up with a hairdryer before applying the sticky pad. I knocked mine off a few weeks ago (cracking the screen ☹️) and have been using a suction mounted one temporarily - seems to stay attached. Yellow SL #32 - member of Drowned Rat Racing

The other obvious reply is Pagid - RS15s front and RS14s rear. They are expensive, some people experience brake squeal at lower speeds and they aren't at their best until warm (although not bad). This suggestion is for a normal S3 car but I don't see why it wouldn't work just as well on a CSR. I switched to RS15s at the front (retaining standard pads at the rear) and they are good. I have a set of RS14s to go on the back this winter which I hope will actually mean the rears do some work. Yellow SL #32 - member of Drowned Rat Racing

POR 15 from Frost Automotive. For belt and braces approach, when dry, apply a liberal coating of Waxoyl or Dinitrol before refitting the panels. Yellow SL #32 - member of Drowned Rat Racing

Elephant also charge extra for factory fit options even though they will only pay out for a "standard" car. Just switched to More Than who do not charge extra for options although I'm pretty sure they won't pay out for them either. These days, if you want cheap insurance don't expect any more than the bare minimum cover. I figure my savings in insurance premiums will cover the couple of hundred quid for alloys on my car but if you have thousands of pounds worth of options then you'd better make sure your insurance covers them. N.B. I'm talking about tin-top isnurance here. Yellow SL #32 - member of Drowned Rat Racing Edited by - Shaun_E on 21 Nov 2007 12:37:04

Actually there is no mention of demisting facilities in the MOT test at all. The details for windscreen checks are here. It might fail Construction and Use regulations (I don't have a link for those). The questions is would you want a screen without demisting facilities? Heated windscreen for S3 is £285. for SV/CSR it's £400. Yellow SL #32 - member of Drowned Rat Racing

Standard FIA bar measured at 38mm. Yellow SL #32 - member of Drowned Rat Racing

It's dry sumped isn't it? If so it should be fairly tolerant of low oil level unless the scavenge pump can't keep up with the pressure pump (alledgedly a problem with the original K series purple pump system). What is the system capacity compared with the 4.5 litres they removed? Did you notice low oil pressure at any time? Yellow SL #32 - member of Drowned Rat Racing

Ah... I thought I'd read that it only applied to "Roadgoing classes". Yellow SL #32 - member of Drowned Rat Racing

Class 6 is non-roadgoing therefore the new regs don't apply. Yellow SL #32 - member of Drowned Rat Racing

When I upgraded from 135 bhp to 227 bhp, I found that 185s were a little lacking in the traction department (wheelspin in 3rd if being brutal ) so moved to 205s. This improved traction but also introduced some unwelcome understeer which it took a bit of set-up tweaking to eliminate. So, if you bear that in mind, a move up in tyre size is probably a good idea at that power level. Yellow SL #32 - member of Drowned Rat Racing

Quick question - what is the tube diameter of the Arch, single diagonal FIA bar? Yellow SL #32 - member of Drowned Rat Racing

That's the one. Thanks. Yellow SL #32 - member of Drowned Rat Racing

Thanks for the offer Mark - what does it look like? I have a Manfrotto super clamp but it's a bit bulky and I was looking for something neat and discreet that I could leave on the car semi-permanently. Yellow SL #32 - member of Drowned Rat Racing

As above, I'm looking for a bullet cam mount to fit 38mm (FIA) rollbar like the one that Demon Tweeks used to sell. Looks like this one. Yellow SL #32 - member of Drowned Rat Racing

I am looking for a neat bullet cam mount like the one Demon Tweeks used to sell. I say "used to" because I can't find it on the website. I have found this one which looks very similar. Does anyone know of any other suppliers? Maybe DT still sell it? It must be able to fit an (older style) FIA bar which I think is 38mm diameter. I have also seen some cheap velcro mounts that might do the job - has anyone used one on an FIA bar? I know David Nelson has one on his roll cage but that is a smaller diameter. Yellow SL #32 - member of Drowned Rat Racing

Simon - not too far for me. James - Cheers. I am sending it to them for repair - doesn't sound too expensive. I doubt I will get it repaired for free as it has been in the car for many years. Yellow SL #32 - member of Drowned Rat Racing

I have just spoken to Stack and I will be sending the dash back for repair. Their technical person explained that when the car is started, the needle is driven back to the stop and then moves forward to the zero position. The needle would have broken as it hit the stop so would have gone further back than the stop leaving it in an incorrect position. They couldn't say why the needle broke - has happened to a few people but no consistent reason for it. I'll wait and see what I get charged! So not a problem with my car thankfully. Simon - where is your friend based? I am still considering a loom replacement (wish I'd done it when I stripped and rebuilt my car a couple of years ago). Yellow SL #32 - member of Drowned Rat Racing

Yesterday the rev counter needle on my Stack Dash decided to go the other way round the dial and hit the needle stop hard enough for the needle to break . 1) What could have caused this? It worked fine all weekend until my journey home from the Speed championship awards lunch. I have had some issues with my change up lights flickering at certain RPM so possibly something wrong with the electrics there. 2) Is replacement of the needle likely yo be a DIY job or will it have to go back to Stack? 3) This (along with a niggling short circuit I have been unable to find) makes me think I could do with a new loom. Can anyone recommend somewhere that can do a custom loom? I would want all the Stack sensor wires shortened and I'd like to be able to easily separate the loom at convenient points. I realise this can be an expensive job but am prepared to pay for a good quality loom. It would be very nice if the wires were all labelled as well. Yellow SL #32 - member of Drowned Rat Racing