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Shaun_E

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Posts posted by Shaun_E

  1. I've always found the Halfords sticky pads work well. As you have done, get the surface of the screen absolutely clean (I use a "glasscutter" product from Halfords) and the mirror mounting surface as well. Then warm the screen up with a hairdryer before applying the sticky pad.

    I knocked mine off a few weeks ago (cracking the screen ☹️) and have been using a suction mounted one temporarily - seems to stay attached.

     

    Yellow SL *cool* #32 - member of Drowned Rat Racing

  2. The other obvious reply is Pagid - RS15s front and RS14s rear. They are expensive, some people experience brake squeal at lower speeds and they aren't at their best until warm (although not bad).

    This suggestion is for a normal S3 car but I don't see why it wouldn't work just as well on a CSR.

    I switched to RS15s at the front (retaining standard pads at the rear) and they are good. I have a set of RS14s to go on the back this winter which I hope will actually mean the rears do some work.

     

    Yellow SL *cool* #32 - member of Drowned Rat Racing

  3. Elephant also charge extra for factory fit options even though they will only pay out for a "standard" car. Just switched to More Than who do not charge extra for options although I'm pretty sure they won't pay out for them either.

    These days, if you want cheap insurance don't expect any more than the bare minimum cover. I figure my savings in insurance premiums will cover the couple of hundred quid for alloys on my car but if you have thousands of pounds worth of options then you'd better make sure your insurance covers them.

    N.B. I'm talking about tin-top isnurance here.

     

    Yellow SL *cool* #32 - member of Drowned Rat Racing

     

    Edited by - Shaun_E on 21 Nov 2007 12:37:04

  4. It's dry sumped isn't it? If so it should be fairly tolerant of low oil level unless the scavenge pump can't keep up with the pressure pump (alledgedly a problem with the original K series purple pump system).

    What is the system capacity compared with the 4.5 litres they removed?

    Did you notice low oil pressure at any time?

     

    Yellow SL *cool* #32 - member of Drowned Rat Racing

  5. When I upgraded from 135 bhp to 227 bhp, I found that 185s were a little lacking in the traction department (wheelspin in 3rd if being brutal *eek*) so moved to 205s. This improved traction but also introduced some unwelcome understeer which it took a bit of set-up tweaking to eliminate. So, if you bear that in mind, a move up in tyre size is probably a good idea at that power level.

     

    Yellow SL *cool* #32 - member of Drowned Rat Racing

  6. I am looking for a neat bullet cam mount like the one Demon Tweeks used to sell. I say "used to" because I can't find it on the website.

    I have found this one which looks very similar.

    Does anyone know of any other suppliers? Maybe DT still sell it?

    It must be able to fit an (older style) FIA bar which I think is 38mm diameter.

    I have also seen some cheap velcro mounts that might do the job - has anyone used one on an FIA bar? I know David Nelson has one on his roll cage but that is a smaller diameter.

     

    Yellow SL *cool* #32 - member of Drowned Rat Racing

  7. I have just spoken to Stack and I will be sending the dash back for repair. Their technical person explained that when the car is started, the needle is driven back to the stop and then moves forward to the zero position. The needle would have broken as it hit the stop so would have gone further back than the stop leaving it in an incorrect position. They couldn't say why the needle broke - has happened to a few people but no consistent reason for it. I'll wait and see what I get charged!

    So not a problem with my car thankfully.

    Simon - where is your friend based? I am still considering a loom replacement (wish I'd done it when I stripped and rebuilt my car a couple of years ago).

     

    Yellow SL *cool* #32 - member of Drowned Rat Racing

  8. Yesterday the rev counter needle on my Stack Dash decided to go the other way round the dial and hit the needle stop hard enough for the needle to break *mad*.

    1) What could have caused this? It worked fine all weekend until my journey home from the Speed championship awards lunch. I have had some issues with my change up lights flickering at certain RPM so possibly something wrong with the electrics there.

    2) Is replacement of the needle likely yo be a DIY job or will it have to go back to Stack?

    3) This (along with a niggling short circuit I have been unable to find) makes me think I could do with a new loom. Can anyone recommend somewhere that can do a custom loom? I would want all the Stack sensor wires shortened and I'd like to be able to easily separate the loom at convenient points. I realise this can be an expensive job but am prepared to pay for a good quality loom. It would be very nice if the wires were all labelled as well.

     

    Yellow SL *cool* #32 - member of Drowned Rat Racing

  9. Thomas - I would stick with what you have and see how you like it. As you know most of the noise at motorway speeds is wind and road noise - the revs don't make that much difference. The combination of 6 speed and 3.92 diff will give nice acceleration! Plenty of sprinters running that combination.

    According to gearcalc 70mph = 3976 rpm

    With the 3.62 diff it would reduce to 3671 rpm

    So not a huge difference.

     

    Yellow SL *cool* #32 - member of Drowned Rat Racing

  10. A standard Superlight came with a 1.6 Supersport engine which was, as you say, an option on the Roadsport. The 4-1 exhaust was an option but I have seen several Superlights with the standard exhaust including catalyst. In theory the emissions in this configuration would be the same as those for a Roadsport with Supersport engine.

    Other mechanical differences the SL has over a standard Roadsport:

    LSD

    6 speed gearbox

    Wide track front suspension

    adjustable spring platforms

    AP Racing 4 pot front brake calipers with ventilated discs

    19mm front ARB and adjustable rear ARB

     

    Yellow SL *cool* #32 - member of Drowned Rat Racing

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