Shaun_E

RS14 rears provisionally sold. RS15 frontss still available. Pictures here. Yellow SL #32 - member of Drowned Rat Racing Edited by - Shaun_E on 7 Apr 2008 21:39:03

regroo - unfortunately I think it unlikely they will fit as mine have 2 bolts holding the pads in. See if you can find a caliper reference on your calipers - I have given the AP reference to mine above (CP2340) Yellow SL #32 - member of Drowned Rat Racing

I have had a request for the RS14 rears only so if anyone just wants a spare set of RS15 fronts then please let me know. Yellow SL #32 - member of Drowned Rat Racing

RS15 fronts to fit older style AP Caliper (CP2340 D51), Pagid pad reference # E1265. They have been on the car for 1 year covering about 5000 miles and doing 1 sprint season but are very little worn. RS14 rears to fit standard Caterham caliper (WVA20981), Pagid pad reference # E1163. These have been on the car for 1 week and used for one wet trackday so are as new. £100 plus postage or collect from Slough or Maidenhead. I'm taking them off the car this weekend. Yellow SL #32 - member of Drowned Rat Racing

I would get the R888s - they are better in the dry and on track. A021R will overheat on a dry/warm track and IMO don't give that much advantage in the wet. Money no object I would recommend Avon CR500. Probably not quite as grippy as R888s on track but close and they are much lighter weight which improves the ride quality on road. Yellow SL #32 - member of Drowned Rat Racing

Requiring judicious use of the "oh sh!t lane" I seem to recall . Yellow SL #32 - member of Drowned Rat Racing

Robin - another possibility is the coil. Ours failed at Curborough a week ago and Kipper's failed at Llandow on Saturday. Yellow SL #32 - member of Drowned Rat Racing

Just bringing this thread back up as I received a reply from Pagid in Germany. My orginal email to them was and the reply I got back was Looks like RS4-4 would better match RS15 fronts. I have replied back asking what a good match for RS14 fronts would be as I think RS14 would better suit the range of driving I do. Yellow SL #32 - member of Drowned Rat Racing

I've fitted a DRE - very straightforward and the set-up is done using 2 buttons on the top of the unit. It also has a display on the top for use during set-up and testing. There is a mode to display the RPM which is very useful when testing your install. The unit is very small and I've just got it velcroed to the scuttle. Yellow SL #32 - member of Drowned Rat Racing

Just so you are aware, 170 rear with the track biased dampers will be very harsh on bumpy roads. I'm running 250 front and 150 rear and wish I had gone softer at the rear. Yellow SL #32 - member of Drowned Rat Racing

Perfect - thanks Stu. Yellow SL #32 - member of Drowned Rat Racing

Please can somebody post a picture of the armrest fitted in a car, preferably with a tillet seat and if possible with the seat moved as far forward as possible. I know I don't want much but that's how we will have to use them so, before making a purchase, I would like to see if they would be OK for us. Cheers, Shaun Yellow SL #32 - member of Drowned Rat Racing

Armrests it is then - not really the image I was going for in my Superlight and will only give Mark more opportunity to take the pi$$ but if it solves the problem then I guess I'll have to take it on the chin. Yellow SL #32 - member of Drowned Rat Racing

Has anyone come up with an alternative to the small strap and popper arrangement at the rear of the door? My problem with this is twofold: 1) Being a short 🙆🏻 the popper is behind the seat making it difficult to reach when seated. 2) The Tillet seats foul on the popper base when being moved back and forth. I could attach a press stud directly to the door as there is a conveniently placed popper base on the outside bodywork (used for hood or tonneau fitting), but this only solves problem 2. I had thought about using some powerful magnets - one on the door and one mounted to the body which should do the job. Ideally they should have some form of mechnical location as well to keep the door aligned properly. Has anyone tried this or does anyone know of a source for this type of thing? I guess velcro is another possibility - anyone tried this? Suggestions based on converting to aeroscreen will be ignored (I have one but choose not to use it on the road). thanks, Shaun Yellow SL #32 - member of Drowned Rat Racing

Maximum tyre width for the L7OC sprint championship is 235. The front runners in classes 3, 4, and 5 all run Kumho Ecsta V70A in the soft compound - take a look on the Club speed events forum. There are some supply issues with the Kumhos in 235 at the moment. An 8" or 8.5" wheel would be suitable for this size (or for 215 which most people ran last year) and most people use 13" wheels if possible otherwise 15". ACB10 are not allowed as all crossply tyres are banned. Suggested combinations are 215 front, 235 rear (class 5 most likely) or 175 front, 215 rear depending on power. Yellow SL #32 - member of Drowned Rat Racing

Martin - take a look at the PAgid racing website for some detailed info. Yellow SL #32 - member of Drowned Rat Racing

Thanks Rob - I'll give it a go. When I orginally fitted them I found a deserted road on the trading estate for the bedding in! It's not easy to find a suitable empty road around Slough. Yellow SL #32 - member of Drowned Rat Racing

Mark and David - thanks. Looks like people have had different experiences but I'll chat with you both at Race Retro and the Curborough sprint intro day. I'll email Pagid and see what they say. Yellow SL #32 - member of Drowned Rat Racing

I've got RS15s fitted to the front (AP big brakes) and I am about to fit the RS14s I've had in the garage for over a year to the rear (using standard Caterham rears at the moment). I am a bit concerned that this will end up overbraking the rear (no brake limiting valve fitted). Rob Walker - is there anyway to "de-glaze" the front pads as I am sure they are not giving the optimum performance at the moment. I bought the pads for sprinting and track day performance but I think that as I also do a lot of road miles that these are not really suitable for me. Any thoughts? Yellow SL #32 - member of Drowned Rat Racing

Gill and I sent our requests to Emily. Yellow SL #32 - member of Drowned Rat Racing

Mark, I'll happily help out as long as you don't need me there at the crack of dawn. Give me call on my mobile. Yellow SL #32 - member of Drowned Rat Racing

Fog light should be mounted on the off-side (in the middle is OK as well although I realise that is not relevant for you). Yellow SL #32 - member of Drowned Rat Racing

I guess it depends on when your R400 flywheel was made. The only lightweight flywheel Caterham supply now is the R500 one (picture here courtesy of Myles). This is lighter than the original "lightweight" flywheel fitted to the Superlights. On the clutch front I see no reason to use anything other than the standard AP clutch plate and cover supplied by Caterham. I and many others are using this in high powered Ks and it is what was fitted to the R500. I fitted one when I had my 1900K built and it has done several thousand road miles, 2 sprint seasons and several track days without complaint. Yellow SL #32 - member of Drowned Rat Racing

Web site is http://www.dyno-plot.co.uk/dyno/about.htm. My plot is here. It overstates things very slightly as DW got the temp correction wrong. Actual peak power is 227bhp. Still it's a nice flat torque curve and the power goes up very linearly. I could get a bit more by extending the revs past 8000 but ideally should have steel rods for that. Diet not doing much now but I have lost a bit! I'm looking to better last seasons times and not leave such a huge gap between mine and the faster drivers. Yellow SL #32 - member of Drowned Rat Racing Edited by - Shaun_E on 5 Mar 2008 10:54:38

Very nice! I guess that will just make me even slower in comparison ☹️. Yellow SL #32 - member of Drowned Rat Racing