Shaun_E

and the slicks were FUN!

Requiring judicious use of the "oh sh!t lane" I seem to recall .

Yellow SL #32 - member of Drowned Rat Racing

Robin - another possibility is the coil. Ours failed at Curborough a week ago and Kipper's failed at Llandow on Saturday.

Yellow SL #32 - member of Drowned Rat Racing

Just bringing this thread back up as I received a reply from Pagid in Germany.

My orginal email to them was

I have a Caterham seven with AP Racing 4 piston calipers on the front and

standard (Ford Sierra) single piston calipers on the back. Last year I

fitted RS15 pads on the front, keeping the standard Caterham rear pads. I

also bought a set of RS14s for the rear but have not fitted them yet.

1) If I fit the RS14s to the rear, is it likely to cause the rear to be

over-braked?

2) As the car is used for road driving as well as sprints, hillclimbs and

trackdays, I think the front pads have become glazed. Is there any way to

"de-glaze" the pads?

3) Is there a better pad combination for front and rear based on the type

of driving I do? I do over 5000 road miles per year, 16 sprint/hillclimb

events and 4-5 trackdays.

---

hello Mr. Elwell,

I can't recommend RS 14, to avoid over braking the rear axle. RS 4-4 is the better alternative.

Concerning the glazed pads, I want to know how the paint looks.

Looks the paint regular or is it ashed?

Are the brakes sill working proper or do you need more pedal force? If the brake works well, so you must not take

care for.

The surface can be de-glazed cleaning with sand paper.

Mit freundlichen Grüßen / Best regards

Peter Grossmann

---

Looks like RS4-4 would better match RS15 fronts. I have replied back asking what a good match for RS14 fronts would be as I think RS14 would better suit the range of driving I do.

Yellow SL #32 - member of Drowned Rat Racing

I've fitted a DRE - very straightforward and the set-up is done using 2 buttons on the top of the unit. It also has a display on the top for use during set-up and testing. There is a mode to display the RPM which is very useful when testing your install. The unit is very small and I've just got it velcroed to the scuttle.

Yellow SL #32 - member of Drowned Rat Racing

Just so you are aware, 170 rear with the track biased dampers will be very harsh on bumpy roads. I'm running 250 front and 150 rear and wish I had gone softer at the rear.

Yellow SL #32 - member of Drowned Rat Racing

Perfect - thanks Stu.

Yellow SL #32 - member of Drowned Rat Racing

Please can somebody post a picture of the armrest fitted in a car, preferably with a tillet seat and if possible with the seat moved as far forward as possible. I know I don't want much but that's how we will have to use them so, before making a purchase, I would like to see if they would be OK for us.

Cheers,

Shaun

Yellow SL #32 - member of Drowned Rat Racing

Armrests it is then - not really the image I was going for in my Superlight and will only give Mark more opportunity to take the pi$$ but if it solves the problem then I guess I'll have to take it on the chin.

Yellow SL #32 - member of Drowned Rat Racing

Has anyone come up with an alternative to the small strap and popper arrangement at the rear of the door?

My problem with this is twofold:

1) Being a short 🙆🏻 the popper is behind the seat making it difficult to reach when seated.

2) The Tillet seats foul on the popper base when being moved back and forth.

I could attach a press stud directly to the door as there is a conveniently placed popper base on the outside bodywork (used for hood or tonneau fitting), but this only solves problem 2.

I had thought about using some powerful magnets - one on the door and one mounted to the body which should do the job. Ideally they should have some form of mechnical location as well to keep the door aligned properly. Has anyone tried this or does anyone know of a source for this type of thing?

I guess velcro is another possibility - anyone tried this?

Suggestions based on converting to aeroscreen will be ignored (I have one but choose not to use it on the road).

thanks,

Shaun

Yellow SL #32 - member of Drowned Rat Racing

Maximum tyre width for the L7OC sprint championship is 235. The front runners in classes 3, 4, and 5 all run Kumho Ecsta V70A in the soft compound - take a look on the Club speed events forum. There are some supply issues with the Kumhos in 235 at the moment. An 8" or 8.5" wheel would be suitable for this size (or for 215 which most people ran last year) and most people use 13" wheels if possible otherwise 15". ACB10 are not allowed as all crossply tyres are banned. Suggested combinations are 215 front, 235 rear (class 5 most likely) or 175 front, 215 rear depending on power.

Yellow SL #32 - member of Drowned Rat Racing

Martin - take a look at the PAgid racing website for some detailed info.

Yellow SL #32 - member of Drowned Rat Racing

Thanks Rob - I'll give it a go.

When I orginally fitted them I found a deserted road on the trading estate for the bedding in! It's not easy to find a suitable empty road around Slough.

Yellow SL #32 - member of Drowned Rat Racing

Mark and David - thanks. Looks like people have had different experiences but I'll chat with you both at Race Retro and the Curborough sprint intro day.

I'll email Pagid and see what they say.

Yellow SL #32 - member of Drowned Rat Racing

I've got RS15s fitted to the front (AP big brakes) and I am about to fit the RS14s I've had in the garage for over a year to the rear (using standard Caterham rears at the moment). I am a bit concerned that this will end up overbraking the rear (no brake limiting valve fitted).

Rob Walker - is there anyway to "de-glaze" the front pads as I am sure they are not giving the optimum performance at the moment. I bought the pads for sprinting and track day performance but I think that as I also do a lot of road miles that these are not really suitable for me. Any thoughts?

Yellow SL #32 - member of Drowned Rat Racing

Gill and I sent our requests to Emily.

Yellow SL #32 - member of Drowned Rat Racing

Mark, I'll happily help out as long as you don't need me there at the crack of dawn. Give me call on my mobile.

Yellow SL #32 - member of Drowned Rat Racing

Fog light should be mounted on the off-side (in the middle is OK as well although I realise that is not relevant for you).

Yellow SL #32 - member of Drowned Rat Racing

I guess it depends on when your R400 flywheel was made. The only lightweight flywheel Caterham supply now is the R500 one (picture here courtesy of Myles). This is lighter than the original "lightweight" flywheel fitted to the Superlights.

On the clutch front I see no reason to use anything other than the standard AP clutch plate and cover supplied by Caterham. I and many others are using this in high powered Ks and it is what was fitted to the R500. I fitted one when I had my 1900K built and it has done several thousand road miles, 2 sprint seasons and several track days without complaint.

Yellow SL #32 - member of Drowned Rat Racing

Web site is http://www.dyno-plot.co.uk/dyno/about.htm.

My plot is here. It overstates things very slightly as DW got the temp correction wrong. Actual peak power is 227bhp. Still it's a nice flat torque curve and the power goes up very linearly. I could get a bit more by extending the revs past 8000 but ideally should have steel rods for that.

Diet not doing much now but I have lost a bit! I'm looking to better last seasons times and not leave such a huge gap between mine and the faster drivers.

Yellow SL #32 - member of Drowned Rat Racing

Edited by - Shaun_E on 5 Mar 2008 10:54:38

Very nice! I guess that will just make me even slower in comparison ☹️.

Yellow SL #32 - member of Drowned Rat Racing

I went to Power Engineering on Saturday and they no longer stock Mikalor (although they will order them for you). A web search today found a few places but the best price I found (and good stock levels) was here: http://www.actionsealtite.com/products/index.asp?cat=78. I ordered the Supra Ferritic clamps which are a stainless steel band with a zinc plated bolt. These seemed a good compromise between price and corrosion resistance. The all stainless ones were more than double the price but still good compared to Power Engineering and others (and in fact cheaper than the JCS ones from Burton).

I really wanted the Mikalor clamps for their even clamping force around the entire hose. They should arrive in a couple of days so will post up my thoughts then.

Yellow SL #32 - member of Drowned Rat Racing

Edited by - Shaun_E on 3 Mar 2008 13:09:31

Thanks Mike - they are not far from me so I might take a drive over there.

Yellow SL #32 - member of Drowned Rat Racing

Thanks

Yellow SL #32 - member of Drowned Rat Racing

Mark, I have mostly silicone hoses so yes please let me know the sizes I need. I couln't get a good seal with the radiator bottom hose so went back to rubber but I guess with Mikalor clamps I could put the silicone one back on.

The heater valve to heater hoses that I am replacing are rubber though. I think a 21mm-23mm clamp would work for those.

Chris - thanks.

Yellow SL #32 - member of Drowned Rat Racing

I am looking for some decent quality hose clips to seal new heater hoses on my car. The ones in Halfords were cr@p so I thought I'd look online. Rally design seem to have some OK ones.

Question: how are they sized? Does the size of the clip refer to the outside diameter of the hose or to the inside diameter? I've measured the outside diameter of the hose as 23mm (inside is 5/8"). Seems like it's outside diameter.

Anyone got a good source of good quality clips? I've heard "Mikalor" ones are the best.

edit:

I've found Mikalor clamps on line - nice but expensive. They also only have a small range of adjustment. Does anyone know the common outside diameter sizes of hoses for a K series 7. i.e. heater hoses, radiator hoses, thermostat housing / submarine pipe?

Yellow SL #32 - member of Drowned Rat Racing

Edited by - Shaun_E on 29 Feb 2008 09:07:17