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Shaun_E

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Posts posted by Shaun_E

  1. Brooklands won't really suit the car - it's a Superlight with lots of carbon, etc. sort of quasi race car. They also weigh a fair bit and aren't easily transported to a track. The carbon screen I have can be bungeed to the rollbar.

     

    Yellow SL *cool* #32 - member of Drowned Rat Racing

  2. Hi Kev - I had thought of doing something similar but really wanted a neater solution. I will probably end up with the Race screens but before I take the plunge just though I'd see if there were any suitable alternatives. If you could post up or email me a picture I'd like to see it. shaun dot elwell at blueyonder dot co dot uk

    Thanks.

     

    Yellow SL *cool* #32 - member of Drowned Rat Racing

  3. I've put a wanted ad up for the "Race" aeroscreens but is there another solution?

    The aero needs to be clear as the 2 short 🙆🏻es driving the car can't see effectively with a carbon screen fitted. The JPE screen was smoked perspex but can you see through it? Does anyone know of a source for a similar design in clear perspex or preferably polycarbonate?

     

    Yellow SL *cool* #32 - member of Drowned Rat Racing

  4. Following my little conflagration on the IoM I need to replace the 30 Amp cooker wire I used as a temporary fix. (It's not very flexible and I suspect it will fatigue over time.)

    What is the current rating required for the 2 brown coloured wires that are the main power feeds into the engine loom? (K series)

    Halfords sell 27amp rated wire which I have bought but, given that the ECU fuse is now a 30 Amp, should I use something with a higher rating?

    If so, where can I get higher rated wire suitable for automotive use?

    Thanks,

    Shaun

     

    Yellow SL *cool* #32 - member of Drowned Rat Racing

  5. Well what a weekend. We all had a great time and were welcomed everywhere. The seven owners on the island were especially helpful and gave us tips on driving the courses. Most of us arrived on Wednesday and we were able to spend Thursday morning driving the TT course (backwards 😳) in search of the 3 hills so we could get a feel for them. We never found the Sloc though!

    As reported elsewhere, Bray Hill was abandoned. The timing gear wasn't working and that combined with rain and the big off by a Morgan meant it was daft to continue. At least it meant we could get to the bar (the event wasn't due to finish until 11:30 pm). Most of us managed 2 runs before the event was abandoned.

    Friday was dry but very cold - the course is out on the West of the island on a very exposed hill. All was going well until, as I was sat lined up for my first practice run, smoke started to pour through the bonnet louvres *eek*. I leapt out of the car shouting for marshals but had the presence of mind to hit the electrical cut off. Once the bonnet was opened the smoke subsided revealing the remains of a small electrical fire. The main power feeds to the engine loom had chafed on the bell housing and shorted out. A quick trip into Port Erin and I managed to buy some cooker cable which I stripped to a single core and using chocolate block connectors replaced the burnt out section. We were back running for the afternoon and the organisers kindly let me compete. I did eventually get 2 runs in and Gill managed 3 as she had at least got 1 practice in the morning.

    Saturday was bright and sunny but still cold in the shade but it was looking like a great event. The hill is long and challenging but very fast. Gill had her first practice run but when her batch returned down the hill there was no sign of our car *confused*. A minute or so later she appeared - the car had refuesd to start but eventually bumped started rolling down the hill. I got in leaving the engine running but an incident on the hill caused a delay which meant I had to stop the car (was getting a bit hot!). Of course it wouldn't restart even when pushed. We all assumed it would be down to the previous day's fire so I set about stripping the insulation back further to check there were no more exposed cables. We swapped MFRUs with Mike's car and we got a meter across everything - no sign of a problem. Having given up and resigned to going home on the back of a flatbed, I suddenly realised the symptoms were similar to when the immobiliser hadn't been deactivated. I walked back to the car - the immobiliser fob was there in the handbrake recess where the loop aerial is (its a passive proximity device) but moving it slightly allowed the car to start *redface*. Again the organisers let us run so I got 2 timed runs and Gill got a single timed run (event overran so dual drives never got their second timed run).

    I also had a very blonde moment when at scrutineering I couldn't find my timing strut 😳. Mark quickly made one from cardboard and I ran with that for the weekend - it was only on packing up on Saturday that I found the proper one in the tool bag where I had been looking for it *redface* *redface*.

    I'll leave Martin to tell you about his challenge for the "blonde of the weekend" trophy

     

    Yellow SL *cool* #32 - member of Drowned Rat Racing

  6. Gill and I got back home about 6.00 this evening as we were on the early ferry - the others won't be home until nearer midnight. It was a brilliant weekend and the courses were exciting (scary *eek*). A very eventful weekend that I am sure will be the subject of an amusing Low Flying feature. I'm knackered and about to go to bed so will provide more details tomorrow.

    The only person from the club to win anything was Gill *smokin* but we're not yet sure what the trophy is for as we weren't at the awards bash *confused*.

     

    Yellow SL *cool* #32 - member of Drowned Rat Racing

  7. I asume that all the racers do is remove the thermostat from it's housing which is the black plastic thing on the driver's side of the engine block that has a J tube coming out of it. You could just put a thermostat back in there (88 degree standard, 82 degree if you want to run a bit cooler and 74 degree if you are paranoid and don't want your car to get up to proper operating temperature). From memory there is a bolt to be removed and then the housing just pulls out of the block - not easy though given it's position under the plenum/throttlebodies.

     

    Yellow SL *cool* #32 - member of Drowned Rat Racing

  8. Great news on Julie driving ...oh and congratulations to you both on your engagement. See you on the IoM.

     

    My brother decided to get married on 17th May so we'll be missing Curborough 1. We did wonder if we could get a timed run in before the wedding (it's not until 4.00pm) but we decided racesuits and full face lids weren't really appropriate wedding attire.

     

    Yellow SL *cool* #32 - member of Drowned Rat Racing

  9. What car/engine spec are you fitting it to? You'll want a base map to drive it to the RR unless you can trailer. Emerald supply some base maps for most standard Caterham models and there are maps freely available for most popular states of tune.

     

    Yellow SL *cool* #32 - member of Drowned Rat Racing

  10. RS15 fronts to fit older style AP Caliper (CP2340 D51), Pagid pad reference # E1265. They have been on the car for 1 year covering about 5000 miles and doing 1 sprint season but are very little worn.

    RS14 rears to fit standard Caterham caliper (WVA20981), Pagid pad reference # E1163. These have been on the car for 1 week and used for one wet trackday so are as new.

     

    £100 plus postage or collect from Slough or Maidenhead. I'm taking them off the car this weekend.

     

    Yellow SL *cool* #32 - member of Drowned Rat Racing

  11. I would get the R888s - they are better in the dry and on track. A021R will overheat on a dry/warm track and IMO don't give that much advantage in the wet.

    Money no object I would recommend Avon CR500. Probably not quite as grippy as R888s on track but close and they are much lighter weight which improves the ride quality on road.

     

    Yellow SL *cool* #32 - member of Drowned Rat Racing

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