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Shaun_E

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Posts posted by Shaun_E

    New front tyres to replace AO48's?

    in TechTalk

    Posted

    A048s seem to have very stiff sidewalls. I never really got on with them on the road and despite dialling out bumpsteer with washers under the steering rack and adding a bit of toe in they never inspired confidence on a bumpy B road. They are great on track though.

    I have since tried Toyo R888s (admittedly in soft compound) and these were much better - the sidewalls seem more compliant which not only reduces the tendency to tramline but also improves the ride comfort.

    I would be tempted to try R888s on the front and replace the rear AO48Rs with R888s when they wear out.

    If you are feeling flush then a set of Avon CR500s will give you the best road experience - they are lighter as well as more compliant and IMHO are the best road tyre for a 7.

     

    Yellow SL *cool* #32 - member of Drowned Rat Racing

     

    Edited by - Shaun_E on 16 Oct 2008 13:30:56

    Bullet Camera condensation

    in TechTalk

    Posted

    The camera lives on the car permanently and it is driven to events come rain or shine (no trailer for us) so gets wet a lot!

    The lens cover has an O-ring. This is a new camera which I have never taken the cover off. I had this problem with the old camera and often took the cover off to wipe away condensation.

    I thought an airing cupboard would be a dry environment. I might try putting the cover on the camera in the airing cupboard.

    Alistair - the cable enters the camera at the other end and, having dimantled my old broken one, is sealed with lots of black silicone.

    The issue is obviously moisture in the air gap between the lens and the cover but how can that be eliminated?

    I might have to try Rain-X anti fog stuff!

     

    Yellow SL *cool* #32 - member of Drowned Rat Racing

    Bullet Camera condensation

    in TechTalk

    Posted

    SM25T - The theory is sound but nowhere to drill a hole really. I will take a closer look though. Thanks.

    Alistair - a very lateral thinking approach! As above there isn't much room between the lens and the protector but I might be able to get a few grains in there.

    I guess I could try assembling it in the airing cupboard to eliminate any moisture.

     

    Yellow SL *cool* #32 - member of Drowned Rat Racing

    Bullet Camera condensation

    in TechTalk

    Posted

    I often have an issue with condensation on the inside of the lens protector of my RF Concepts bullet camera.

    Does anyone else suffer from this and has anyone found a solution?

    On initial use it is fine but after a while it steams up. I noticed at Anglesey this weekend it was fine on Gill's runs but by the time I started my run it had steamed up. This suggests it is heat related - i.e. it happens when the camera has got warm but the outside temperature is cold.

    Suggestions on how to eliminate this gratefully received as it is ruining most of my video.

     

    Yellow SL *cool* #32 - member of Drowned Rat Racing

    Dinitrol and POR15

    in TechTalk

    Posted

    Metal ready is not required unless painting on bare clean metal. On a powder coated but rusty chassis, the "POR15 rust prevention paint" is the stuff. The 6 pack sounds like a good idea for the reason described above. If you put 2 layers of clingfilm over the can before replacing the lid it does help to prevent the lid and can becoming one.

    On the Dinitrol front I used the cavity wax following my rebuild but that was on clean surfaces. In your case the Coromax sounds like the right product. No point in spraying the inside of the skins but do spray the grot traps and where the chassis and skins meet. Basically, anywhere that steel and aluminium meet is a good place to spray.

     

    Yellow SL *cool* #32 - member of Drowned Rat Racing

    Advice on replacing pistons?????

    in TechTalk

    Posted

    Is it a SuperSport engine? The standard pistons are allegedly marginal for the red line the Superpsort is set to.

    I would replace all 4 pistons with forged items. As above contact Dave Andrews at DVA Power. There are some mods you can have done to the oilways and oil pump and you can get the liner standoff checked and corrected if necessary. New bearings and headgasket will have your engine better than new.

    Of course a conversation with Dave can end up very expensive once you are tempted by the dark side 😬.

     

    Yellow SL *cool* #32 - member of Drowned Rat Racing

    Track Day Car - What do I need to keep an eye on!

    in TechTalk

    Posted

    21/22psi hot sounds about right - probably 16 to 18 cold depending on ambient temperature.

    Check the oil regularly and keep it at the specified level. If you are using a good fully synthetic then no need to change it more than normal - lots of people do but there is no need to. I only do an oil and filter change once a year!

    Spanner check - always check the wheel nuts are torqued correctly (55 lbft) and do this several times on a trackday. As they heat up they can come loose (I speak from experience having wrecked a wheel ☹️). Its worth going round all the suspension bolts now and again to make aure none have worked loose.

    Brake pads - I a use Pagid RS14s front and RS4-2s rear but there are lots of alternatives - do a search.

     

    Yellow SL *cool* #32 - member of Drowned Rat Racing

    Headlights - no dip

    in TechTalk

    Posted

    The dip switch is the most likely candidate. You can check by switching the connections at the back. If you then get dipped but no full beam then you have your answer.

     

    Yellow SL *cool* #32 - member of Drowned Rat Racing

    Wiscombe

    in Speed

    Posted

    Hi Simon - Yes you won 😬.

    Rob heeded your advice and did a 45.80. I didn't and put a wheel on the bank at the first corner slowing me to a 46.5ish. So Rob took the honours beating my earlier 45.89 by 9 hundredths *cry*. Everything to play for at Anglesey.

     

    Yellow SL *cool* #32 - member of Drowned Rat Racing

    Start line grip (lack of) - revisited

    in TechTalk

    Posted

    Agree with Dave on startline technique. I use between 2500 and 3500 rpm depending on conditions and bring the clutch up fairly quickly but smoothly, control wheelspin with throttle until full traction achieved and then nail it.

    I switched from R888 SG to Kumho soft part way through this season and gained a tenth to 64 feet.

     

    Yellow SL *cool* #32 - member of Drowned Rat Racing

    Start line grip (lack of) - revisited

    in TechTalk

    Posted

    GG is the medium compound for R888s - you could switch to the SG compound which is soft. Even better switch to Kumho V70A in soft compound.

    It does sound like you have too hard rear suspension. Most of the L7 competitors are running somewhere in the 135lbft to 150 lbft range. I am using 150lbft, relatively stiff damping, Kumho V70 in soft 235/13 and get consistent 2.2s times.

    The other variable is gearing. One of our competitors has a very tall 1st gear and the best he can get is a high 2.4s launch.

     

    Yellow SL *cool* #32 - member of Drowned Rat Racing

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