Shaun_E

Thanks everyone. I'll take a hacksaw/dremel/angle grinder (whatever fits!) to cut through the spacer and bolt and see what I am left with. I think Michael has some spare spacers but if not then Mark or Darren I'll give you a shout thanks. If the wishbone is toast then a spare would be great Simon - it's the driver's side - annoyingly the only new one on the car! Yellow SL #32 - member of Drowned Rat Racing

The lower wishbone damper mount bolt has sheared on my car. The breakpoint is about half way inside the damper sleeve, so the damper won't come away from the wishbone. I believe I have 2 options: 1) cut through the bolt between the damper and the wishbone 2) sacrifice the wishbone - take an angle grinder to it either side of the mounting point Which would you do or is there another solution? An added complication is that the damper is a Nitron with spherical bearings instead of rubber bushes. Solution 1 looks tricky as there is very little room - maybe a thin hacksaw blade would fit? Solution 2 is easy enough but will cost me a new wishbone. If I can't get the bolt stub out I'll need a new one anyway. Help please! Yellow SL #32 - member of Drowned Rat Racing Edited by - Shaun_E on 15 Feb 2009 16:22:49

A 2000 reg car needs a Cat for sprinting. Yellow SL #32 - member of Drowned Rat Racing

Careful - it is possible that silicone can foul the catalytic converter and can affect the lambda sensor. If it's on'y fitted for the MOT then I guess not such a big deal but it could end up failing the emissions test. Yellow SL #32 - member of Drowned Rat Racing Edited by - Shaun_E on 13 Feb 2009 16:15:45

Change to Avon CR500 tyres - this is the biggest step as they are much lighter than Yokos or similar. Caterham 8 spoke 13" wheels would then be the second step. The difference between an 8 spoke with CR500 and a minilight with Yoko is massive. Yellow SL #32 - member of Drowned Rat Racing

It's £7.49. For that money I might give it a go. Yellow SL #32 - member of Drowned Rat Racing

Thanks I will go ahead and fit it. Yellow SL #32 - member of Drowned Rat Racing

Just bought a new MG-Rover oil filter and it is part number LPW100181. Person at the parts counter says it is a replacement for the LPW100180. Does this sound right? It looks like it will fit but as I currently have a Halfords one fitted it's hard to tell if it's the right one. Yellow SL #32 - member of Drowned Rat Racing

To get to 200bhp you'll probably need some porting to the head. I would give some consideration to a Scholar Evo block, either 1800 or, better still, 1900. This will ensure perfect liner standoff. My engine is: 1900 Scholar block with Pistal forged pistons VVC head (same valve sizes as MS2) converted to solid cams and fully ported by DVA BP285H cams with Piper verniers Jenvey DTHTBs (42mm I think) ports matched to the head Caterham 4-2-1 exhaust Emerald ECU All that lot produces 226bhp @7800rpm It will rev higher. I am running a standard crank and single tang rods. Yellow SL #32 - member of Drowned Rat Racing Edited by - Shaun_E on 9 Feb 2009 12:09:53

I haven't got round to fitting mine yet but the bolts each came with 2 plain washers and a spring washer. Yellow SL #32 - member of Drowned Rat Racing

Dave - what size and offset of CXR wheel are you using? I have recently bought some Image Billet 4 wheels in 7.5"x13" and 8.5"x13" for sprinting but was toying with buying CXRs as a set for road and track. I need the backdepth to be about 111mm front and 140mm rear. Would 8" front and 9" rear be OK or should I try 8.5" rear? Yellow SL #32 - member of Drowned Rat Racing

A class 6 Caterham is still a "production based sports car" so a cat is still required. Yellow SL #32 - member of Drowned Rat Racing

It is part number 1121457. I called my local Ford dealer and they got it for me the next day. It was about £11 for a litre. Yellow SL #32 - member of Drowned Rat Racing

I've got some of the Ford oil to go in my new diff but I can't remember the part number. I found the number "1121457" in a search of the archives but I would need to check the bottle when I get home tonight. Yellow SL #32 - member of Drowned Rat Racing

Thanks folks! Yellow SL #32 - member of Drowned Rat Racing

Anyone know what the item being pointed at here is? It's on a MG ZR 160 so I guess a VVC engine. My colleague has been having the battery drain on this car and this part is making a "humming noise" even when the ignition is off. Yellow SL #32 - member of Drowned Rat Racing

Thanks Yellow SL #32 - member of Drowned Rat Racing

Just fitting a new Caterham radiator (replacing a Radtec) - which holes should be used to mount it? Top or bottom? I have mounted using the top holes so the radiator sits low but it looks like the nosecone might be a tad close. Yellow SL #32 - member of Drowned Rat Racing

It's probably not a major issue - Caterhams have been running like that for years. When I switched to the new design 8 spoke wheels I found that the nuts only went on a few turns. Caterham now fit longer studs so I bought new hub assemblies - you can just replace the studs if you want. Yellow SL #32 - member of Drowned Rat Racing

Thanks for that. Having spoken to Caterham, it turns out that the fixings are correct but I was missing a nylock for one of the bolts. For reference, the 2 off 7/16" by 2.75" bolts are for top and bottom and the 1/2" by 2.5" is to join the 2 parts of the petty strut together - in my case I will need to enlarge the hole slightly. I now need to source a 7/16" UNF nylock for the top mounting. Yellow SL #32 - member of Drowned Rat Racing

Does anyone know what size bolts and nuts are needed to attach the petty strut to a single diagonal FIA bar? I need the top bolt plus nut, the bolt which goes into the bush at the front of the cockpit and the nut and bolt to join the 2 halves of the petty strut. Caterham have sent me 3 bolts, one nut and a load of washers. There are 2 bolts the same size (7/16 by 2.75 inches) and 1 bolt (1/2 by 2.5 inches). The 1/2" bolt doesn't fit through any of the 3 holes in the petty strut. The 7/16 bolts do fit but are of variable fit lengthwise. Help please before I call Caterham! Yellow SL #32 - member of Drowned Rat Racing

Powerflex list them on their site here. Yellow SL #32 - member of Drowned Rat Racing

Picture 5 is Darrell South NOT Darren. Yellow SL #32 - member of Drowned Rat Racing

As Martin says, this is just the LSD unit. It fits in your existing casing with your existing crown wheel and pinion (which determine the ratio). If you take your existing complete differential along to Road and Race or another suitable company, they will put the LSD in for you. Probably a good idea to have new seals and bearings too. It would probably cost around £200 for the refresh and LSD fitting, much less just to fit the LSD. I am sure you could do it yourself but I preferred to let an expert do it for me. Yellow SL #32 - member of Drowned Rat Racing Edited by - Shaun_E on 21 Dec 2008 18:24:24

It should be a bolt in swap and, as far as I know, you won't need any other items. The LSD looks like this: picture 1, picture 2. I had mine removed by Phil at Road and Race so I would recommend talking to him. Yellow SL #32 - member of Drowned Rat Racing