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Shaun_E

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Posts posted by Shaun_E

    K-series oil filter part number changed?

    in TechTalk

    Posted

    Just bought a new MG-Rover oil filter and it is part number LPW100181. Person at the parts counter says it is a replacement for the LPW100180. Does this sound right? It looks like it will fit but as I currently have a Halfords one fitted it's hard to tell if it's the right one.

     

    Yellow SL *cool* #32 - member of Drowned Rat Racing

    Build me a virtual engine

    in TechTalk

    Posted

    To get to 200bhp you'll probably need some porting to the head. I would give some consideration to a Scholar Evo block, either 1800 or, better still, 1900. This will ensure perfect liner standoff.

    My engine is:

    1900 Scholar block with Pistal forged pistons

    VVC head (same valve sizes as MS2) converted to solid cams and fully ported by DVA

    BP285H cams with Piper verniers

    Jenvey DTHTBs (42mm I think) ports matched to the head

    Caterham 4-2-1 exhaust

    Emerald ECU

    All that lot produces 226bhp @7800rpm

    It will rev higher. I am running a standard crank and single tang rods.

     

    Yellow SL *cool* #32 - member of Drowned Rat Racing

     

    Edited by - Shaun_E on 9 Feb 2009 12:09:53

    what alternative to MB wheels

    in TechTalk

    Posted

    Dave - what size and offset of CXR wheel are you using?

    I have recently bought some Image Billet 4 wheels in 7.5"x13" and 8.5"x13" for sprinting but was toying with buying CXRs as a set for road and track. I need the backdepth to be about 111mm front and 140mm rear. Would 8" front and 9" rear be OK or should I try 8.5" rear?

     

    Yellow SL *cool* #32 - member of Drowned Rat Racing

    LSD Lube Guard

    in TechTalk

    Posted

    I've got some of the Ford oil to go in my new diff but I can't remember the part number. I found the number "1121457" in a search of the archives but I would need to check the bottle when I get home tonight.

     

    Yellow SL *cool* #32 - member of Drowned Rat Racing

    Which mounting holes on the radiator ?

    in TechTalk

    Posted

    Just fitting a new Caterham radiator (replacing a Radtec) - which holes should be used to mount it? Top or bottom?

    I have mounted using the top holes so the radiator sits low but it looks like the nosecone might be a tad close.

     

    Yellow SL *cool* #32 - member of Drowned Rat Racing

    Wheel studs / nuts

    in TechTalk

    Posted

    It's probably not a major issue - Caterhams have been running like that for years. When I switched to the new design 8 spoke wheels I found that the nuts only went on a few turns. Caterham now fit longer studs so I bought new hub assemblies - you can just replace the studs if you want.

     

    Yellow SL *cool* #32 - member of Drowned Rat Racing

    FIA bar petty strut bolt sizes

    in TechTalk

    Posted

    Thanks for that.

    Having spoken to Caterham, it turns out that the fixings are correct but I was missing a nylock for one of the bolts.

    For reference, the 2 off 7/16" by 2.75" bolts are for top and bottom and the 1/2" by 2.5" is to join the 2 parts of the petty strut together - in my case I will need to enlarge the hole slightly. I now need to source a 7/16" UNF nylock for the top mounting.

     

    Yellow SL *cool* #32 - member of Drowned Rat Racing

    FIA bar petty strut bolt sizes

    in TechTalk

    Posted

    Does anyone know what size bolts and nuts are needed to attach the petty strut to a single diagonal FIA bar?

    I need the top bolt plus nut, the bolt which goes into the bush at the front of the cockpit and the nut and bolt to join the 2 halves of the petty strut.

    Caterham have sent me 3 bolts, one nut and a load of washers. There are 2 bolts the same size (7/16 by 2.75 inches) and 1 bolt (1/2 by 2.5 inches). The 1/2" bolt doesn't fit through any of the 3 holes in the petty strut. The 7/16 bolts do fit but are of variable fit lengthwise.

    Help please before I call Caterham!

     

    Yellow SL *cool* #32 - member of Drowned Rat Racing

    AP Suretrac LSD

    in For Sale

    Posted

    As Martin says, this is just the LSD unit. It fits in your existing casing with your existing crown wheel and pinion (which determine the ratio).

    If you take your existing complete differential along to Road and Race or another suitable company, they will put the LSD in for you. Probably a good idea to have new seals and bearings too. It would probably cost around £200 for the refresh and LSD fitting, much less just to fit the LSD. I am sure you could do it yourself but I preferred to let an expert do it for me.

     

    Yellow SL *cool* #32 - member of Drowned Rat Racing

     

    Edited by - Shaun_E on 21 Dec 2008 18:24:24

    AP Suretrac LSD

    in For Sale

    Posted

    This is just the LSD unit out of my 1997 Superlight (casing and CW&P not included). It's done about 40k miles but was working perfectly when removed from the car. I am selling because I have upgraded to a Titan unit.

    £250

    It's quite heavy so would prefer collection from Slough/Maidenhead but I can have it couriered at cost (probably between £10 and £20).

     

    Yellow SL *cool* #32 - member of Drowned Rat Racing

    AVO or Gaz?

    in TechTalk

    Posted

    Our Class 5 speed championship winner uses Ohlins 2 way adjustables. Nitron do 2 and 3 way adjustables as well, depending on how deep your pockets are. Penske are also well regarded but expensive.

    The important things for adjustable dampers is that they have repeatable settings and that pairs of dampers actually match. This is where Nitron (and I guess the other more expensive brands) beat the cheaper units. I have heard some horror stories about AVO dampers which is the main reason I chose Nitron.

     

    Yellow SL *cool* #32 - member of Drowned Rat Racing

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