Shaun_E

Rob - it's hard for me to say this as I didn't think it possible but I think you might just have a bit too much power 😬 Yellow SL #32 - member of Drowned Rat Racing

The startline at Harewood is concrete and grip varies considerably depending on the conditions. You need to get some heat in the Kumhos to get them to grip - a good burnout helps. I (and others) regularly get 64 feet times around 2.2 seconds or less. Set-up wise you need at least 2.5 degree negative camber on the fronts. Yellow SL #32 - member of Drowned Rat Racing

I got mine off ebay - think it was this one. This is a) 1/2" drive and b) an impact socket so can be used with an impact gun. Not too much more money either. Yellow SL #32 - member of Drowned Rat Racing

No data logging as I didn't get time to set it up. I was surprised to still be closing on the straight. Another ten seconds head start would have seen me OK. Yellow SL #32 - member of Drowned Rat Racing

The infamous Ferrari catching run is . Yellow SL #32 - member of Drowned Rat Racing

- not quite as quick but beat my previous best time by 4 seconds. Yellow SL #32 - member of Drowned Rat Racing

EU2 or EU3? IF EU2 then the coil has to be high up the list of suspects. Yellow SL #32 - member of Drowned Rat Racing

Hole 1 (as you describe it) is the firmest setting, hole 4 (which you can't use) is the softest so hole 3 is a good choice. Most people never move it from that setting although some disconnect it altogether. Yellow SL #32 - member of Drowned Rat Racing

You will probably need to attack the de-dion ears with an angle grinder - depends which tube you have. Yellow SL #32 - member of Drowned Rat Racing

It might be possible to change the pump without removing the tank. I haven't tried it myself but there is some space between the tank and the sideskin and the pump is only held in with half a dozen screws. To drain the tank I used a cheap syphon device from a local autofactor which was started by squeezing a plastic bulb. Demon Tweeks sell more expensive versions. If you have to take the tank out then boot floor removal is one of those things that will take you ages of fiddling about looking like it won't ever come out and will then suddenly just pop out! Don't forget to remove the filler neck first. Once the floor is out then I found it easier to jack the rear of the car up and drop one side of the tank down before removing through the top. Yellow SL #32 - member of Drowned Rat Racing

Mounting the drop links on the inside of the ARB should sort the problem. I also believe (but have not tried it) that you can't use the softest setting. Yellow SL #32 - member of Drowned Rat Racing

For road going sprint classes you need a screen - aero is acceptable in the Lotus 7 Club speed championship but may not be for other championships. We use the clear perspex race screens attached using rivnuts which are normally hidden by the windscreen rubber. Yellow SL #32 - member of Drowned Rat Racing

Even Halfords sell a set of 4 x BCPR7E for £10.50 Yellow SL #32 - member of Drowned Rat Racing

Depends on how old the primaries are. Primary 4 on early 4-2-1s may well foul the starter motor. Later ones were shaped differently to clear it. For a CAT silencer you could talk to Simon at 7tips as they have a new solution. Alternatively Powerspeed are fairly popular on here and most other exhaust manufacturers will be able to supply a CAT silencer. Yellow SL #32 - member of Drowned Rat Racing

The sprint that we do has a static limit of 105 dB at 3/4 maximum RPM. There is also a drive by check which you could trigger if you are marginal on the static. Best check with the organiser though. I suspect an R300 will be OK. R500s and big power VXs are pretty marginal. Yellow SL #32 - member of Drowned Rat Racing

Just getting the grassy moments out of the way before the season starts . The tyres I was using are going in the bin - I've never experienced such rapid onset oversteer. Unfortunately it means I didn't get much useful setup knowledge from the day so will have to do another test day to get the setup right. Yellow SL #32 - member of Drowned Rat Racing

Current AP clutch from CC is fine. Uprated CRB as per lowflying article seems to work although I've only had mine in a few months so I cant comment on longevity. Yellow SL #32 - member of Drowned Rat Racing

The backstays of the bar are different diameters (38mm on the old bar and 32mm on the new). The bar is also a slightly different shape. Yellow SL #32 - member of Drowned Rat Racing

Sorry Carl - yes it is now sold. There may be another one coming up for sale shortly so keep your eyes peeled. Yellow SL #32 - member of Drowned Rat Racing

BlackBart - they aren't available new. A couple of batches have been made in the past. If you follow the link on my post above you should be able to contact Dave Morris who might be able to give you dimensions and supplier details for the clamps. You could then get one made up at a local fabricators. I'm only selling mine as I have changed my rollbar and it won't fit the new Caged FIA bar. Yellow SL #32 - member of Drowned Rat Racing

YHM Yellow SL #32 - member of Drowned Rat Racing

I have for sale one of the excellent tyre racks as produced / coordinated by Dave Morris see here. Used only a few times, it is in very good condition. It is suitable for a S3 chassis car with standard height, single diagonal, FIA roll bar. It has the capacity to carry two 6"x 13" rims (175/55) and two 8"x 13" rims (205/55) with tyres or four 195/50 x 15" wheels with tyres. Yours for £90. It's quite heavy so collection/GONADS from Slough or Maidenhead would be preferable but I will courier it to you at cost. I will also be able to deliver to most club sprint events. Yellow SL #32 - member of Drowned Rat Racing

I think Mr Snoates may have hit the nail on the head 😳 I am trying to lose some of my advantage in that department in the hope I may make gains in cornering and braking! My technique used to be: dial up between 2500 and 3000 rpm and bring the clutch pedal up quickly but smoothly (don't sidestep the clutch) and then feed in the power as required. Most times now I don't even do that - the clutch up and throttle down is one smooth combined movement. I have one advantage in that my engine has a fairly mild camshaft profile so power and torque come in low down and have a smooth curve - there is none of the peakyness you might get with say an R500 engine. Yellow SL #32 - member of Drowned Rat Racing

Can someone send me the form please - our championship entry forms are in the post. Yellow SL #32 - member of Drowned Rat Racing

I have a set of hard compound for trackdays. They work well after a couple of laps to get some heat into them. Some fellow sprinters had used medium and said they went off after a few laps. Your suggested sizes will be fine. Most of us are running wide fronts now for sprinting but they aren't absolutely necessary for trackdays. Yellow SL #32 - member of Drowned Rat Racing