Shaun_E
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Everything posted by Shaun_E
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Emerald sell item 1. with all the pins. Yellow SL #32 - member of Drowned Rat Racing
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For trackday only, V70s in either medium or hard compound would work. I have soft/supersoft for sprinting and hard compound for trackdays. You could get away with medium compound depending on your power output and how many laps at a time you intend to do. If I didn't have a Kumho setup for sprinting I might try R888 for trackdays (I have tried R888 soft for sprinting and liked them but they didn't work as well as the Kumhos do). Yellow SL #32 - member of Drowned Rat Racing
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I've just had a look at my Jenvey's and they have one spring on each paired throttle body. So yes there are 2 springs but only one per TB. As we all know, scrutineers are human and their understanding or interpretation of the regulations varies. Yellow SL #32 - member of Drowned Rat Racing
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The requirement is not for 2 springs but is for each throttle to have it's own spring. The requirement stems from things like twin webers where the linkage could break leaving one carb on wide open throttle. I think that the 175 Duratec has a single throttle body on a plenum and therefrore needs no modification from standard. If you have separate throttle bodies for each cylinder then each throttle body needs a spring. If you have 2 paired throttle bodies then each pair needs a spring. Yellow SL #32 - member of Drowned Rat Racing
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Currently only revving to 8000 which is partly what prompted the rebuild (that and I've done 20000+ miles and 5 seasons on this engine). 8500, maybe 8600, will give me a few more mph and put me back in the thick of the power band on upchange. It won't make me much faster but at the bigger circuits (Goodwood, Castle Combe, Anglesey) it might give me a few tenths. It's been pretty close this year in class 5 and every tenth counts! Yellow SL #32 - member of Drowned Rat Racing
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Some good info there - thanks. Oliver - one can never have enough power - I'm up against R500s and 2.3 Duratecs. I already have an airbox and will keep that - have not run without it so don't know if I would get more power. Noise is a major issue these days! I will go for the 1444 inlet and re-use my SLR exhaust. The 1721 inlet doesn't seem to fit my requirements as my new rev limit will be 8500rpm so I really need peak power to be below 8500rpm. BSA - everyone I have talked to says the 4-1 will give you a dip in the midle of the torque curve. I can't comment as I have always had the SLR pipes on my (226bhp) engine. Yellow SL #32 - member of Drowned Rat Racing
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Hi Neil - I might be interested depending on the specification. Do you know the length and diameter of the primaries and secondaries? I won't need a silencer. Yellow SL #32 - member of Drowned Rat Racing
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Does anyone know the specifications for the Powerspeed primaries/secondaries? Yellow SL #32 - member of Drowned Rat Racing
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BSA - I don't know yet - engine has yet to be built!. I am seriously thinking about sticking to 1444 for the inlet as well as the exhaust as I can't find anyone running the 1721 inlet cam yet. It's not even listed on the Piper website unless it has an alternative designation. I have decided to stick with the SLR exhaust for now but have the specification for a possibly more optimal design should I need it. Yellow SL #32 - member of Drowned Rat Racing
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What are the latest thoughts on exhaust tube diameters and lengths for a 240-250bhp K series? Engine will be a 1.9 with ported VVC head, larger valves, 1721/1444 cams, 42mm Jenveys. I have an SLR 4-2-1 exhaust at the moment which has 1.75" primaries, 2" secondaries and a 2.25" collector. Although achieving good power and torque are the primary requirements, it must be quiet so the silencer needs to be a decent length which may compromise the primary/secondary length. Most of the big power Ks seem to use the R500 4-1 or similar - is this the best route? Yellow SL #32 - member of Drowned Rat Racing
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Nick - could you get me a photo of your install please. I am going to install the QED kit and wondered how the bypass is plumbed in. Yellow SL #32 - member of Drowned Rat Racing
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Cheers Simon 😬 Paul - they are a bit oversized for my requirements but if nothing else turns up then they are a possibility. Yellow SL #32 - member of Drowned Rat Racing
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Dave is building my engine and is going to let me know the part number of the R500 injectors but there are bound to be (hopefully cheaper) alternatives. For eample QED sell the Pico 330 injector for £75 plus VAT. Dave also suggested Saab Turbo while Track and Road have in the past suggested Volvo injectors. If anyone has used any of the alternatives or has a source of them then I would like to know. ebay is not much help at the moment. Yellow SL #32 - member of Drowned Rat Racing
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I am having my engine rebuilt this winter with a bit more power (aiming for 240-250bhp) and need to replace my injectors. Does anyone have a recommendation for an appropriate injector and where I might get them at a reasonable price. The Caterham R500 injector is £120 (each) so I hope there is something out there a bit more reasonable. If anyone has a set of R500 injectors or similar they want to sell then please let me know. Yellow SL #32 - member of Drowned Rat Racing
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YHM - I would like the scuttle please. Yellow SL #32 - member of Drowned Rat Racing
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Hi Duncan - I am interested in the scuttle. Does it have no holes in it or are there windscreen wiper holes in it? I am after one with no holes at all but would consider one that had the w/w holes. What do you mean by slightly furry? Is this just the usual aluminium surface oxidation? Is it this one? A photo would be ideal if you can send me one (shaun dot elwell at blueyonder dot co dot uk). Thanks, Shaun Yellow SL #32 - member of Drowned Rat Racing
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I know this is a "hens teeth" request but, on the remote chance that someone has one that they would like to sell, I am on the lookout for a K-series R500 crankshaft (or any other suitable steel crank). Yellow SL #32 - member of Drowned Rat Racing
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Well it turned out to be a glorious day and here is the evidence: Photos Video Yellow SL #32 - member of Drowned Rat Racing
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You can get 185/55R14 Kumho V70A in soft compound so I think class 3 it is! We did 2 seasons driving to all the events on soft compound and I got a full season out of a set of tyres. Yellow SL #32 - member of Drowned Rat Racing
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Link here Yellow SL #32 - member of Drowned Rat Racing
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Chris - you will need wider front wings to run 215 tyres and wheels of the correct offset. If you look on the Kumho website, the optimum width for 215 tyres is 8" but most of us are running them on 7.5" so either will do. Yellow SL #32 - member of Drowned Rat Racing
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Alan - at that price you may as well get 2 new ones from SVC. The 5.75" ones are cheaper than the 7" but even they are only £120 per pair. Make sure you tell them it's for a Caterham so you get long enough wires. To get the wires out you have to remove the connector which is a bit fiddly. I doubt you'll have a problem pulling the wires through. On reassembly be careful you don't bend the tab that stops the headlight from rotating - I know from experience that it is easily done! Yellow SL #32 - member of Drowned Rat Racing
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The makers of Optimate also make Accumate conditioners which are designed for larger capacity batteries. You can buy them direct from the manufacturer here. hi Nigel - Red Top Batteries are "Absorbed acid" batteries not Gel. They are very much like a conventional battery but the acid is absorbed into glass mat within the battery casing. I am surprised you have a problem as my Optimate has worked well with my Red Top for years. Yellow SL #32 - member of Drowned Rat Racing
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MacP - that is my understanding. Kevin - do you really need 125mm backdepth on the rear? An 8.5" rim with that backdepth will probably stick out from the wheel arch. I run 235 Kumhos on 8.5" rims with 140mm backdepth (which is also what the Caterham 8" wheels are) and have the top mounted ARB but with the drop links repostioned inside the ARB. The tyres definitely "fill the arches"! I have ordered 2 sets of wheels from Image in the past and only ever specified the back depths as that is the critical measurement. They seem happy to work with that and the wheels fit perfectly. As Pendennis says, you may have to fettle your de-dion tube depending on which tube you have and the design of the wheel. Yellow SL #32 - member of Drowned Rat Racing
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Unused (still in box) 2008 JustKampers Spacemaker driveaway awning for RHD camper van. Will fit most VWs, Mazda Bongo Friendee, etc. Canvas is green. Pictures/dimensions/etc. here. Price new was about £250, for sale at £150. Yellow SL #32 - member of Drowned Rat Racing
