Shaun_E

Hi Stuart, My car was a Superlight with a 1.6 Supersport engine so unlikely to have had the uprated pump. I will check the part numbers this evening - I have the invoice for the new one and the old one is on the garage floor somewhere! Shaun

Turns out that brown is live and blue/black is earth. I checked by hooking it up to a battery and spraying petrol everywhere . Good job too as it showed me that I hadn't connected the banjo up correctly *eek*.

I have replaced my fuel pump with the R500 one but the wires on the new pump are different colours to the old one. Ordnarily this would be a straight swap but as my car has been rewired the connectors are different and therefore I can't assume they are the right way round. On the old one Yellow/Green was the switched live and black the earth. The new pump has Brown and Blue/Black wires - can anyone tell me which is earth and which is switched live. Thanks, Shaun

As Tam says - a bit remiss of me not to comment on the trailer thing. I did 4 seasons without a trailer before going soft and there are plenty who still do. If you do one or two events this year then you will not be classed as a novice next year and will not be eligible for the novice trophy. Otherwise there is no impact - class is dependant on the car not the driver. Your best 5 events count for the novice trophy and best 7 for class honours and the overall championship. Yes you still need a licence to do the Curborough events.

The internal sideskin is aluminium and the gap between it and the outer skin is the width of the chassis tube (about 3/4 of an inch I guess, maybe an inch). If you drill carefully then you won't hit the outer skin.

Camskill are showing 14" A539s on their site.

There is a fair bit of information on the club website in Competitors Korner This document and this one give a bit of information. The mains things you will need are: Non-race National B licence from the MSA (apply here) which doesn't need a medical or anything - just fill in the form and pay your money. Crash helmet to the required standards - see here. Fire resistant race suit (see link above) Fire resistant gloves (see link above) Timing strut - buy from Caterham or make your own (see here section 10.9) FIA approved rollover bar with petty strut fitted (this is a club requirement) or full cage Some yellow tape on the battery earth lead. If I've missed anything I'm sure someone else will come along shortly wiht a correction 😬 Ex Academy car unmodified and with list 1A tyres will be in our class 1 but if you are on list 1Bs then it's class 3. You will need to register for the championship if you wnat to do any events other than the 2 Curboroughs that the club organise - form is here. I think that is it - welcome to the club Edited by - Shaun_E on 1 Apr 2011 08:38:33

Chris, you can get a stronger spring which will help but you just need to not rush the change. 2nd to 5th is the other common mistake! We've just had the stronger spring fitted so I can give you some feedback once we get the car back not the road.

TADTS 😬

Quoting Steve T: So assuming I have a 3.92 and I change the innards for an ATB and keep the 3.92 ration, I would notice no difference appart from the increased traction benefits of the ATB ? Correct

It is usual for a 5 speed car to have a 3.92 and a 6 speed car to have a 3.62 but of course the specification could be changed by the buyer or a subsequent owner. You are correct in that, when having an LSD fitted, the crown wheel and pinion are reused and the ratio stays the same although it is a good opportunity to change if you wanted to. A 3.92 with 6 speed provides better acceleration but obviously reduces top speed and increases cruising RPM. A lot of sprinters go this route as I have. The 3.38 is, I think, normally fitted to the CSR and would be a bit tall for a Roadsport - acceleration would be poor.

If it's a spade connector then replace it with a bullet and that should slip though the hole. We had that arrangement in the old days when we used to drive to events 😬.

David - the Clarke one from Machine Mart is what I and Michael both have and it does a great job. I don't think you'll find a cheaper one that will crack a wheel nut easily.

The "FIA" bar looks like this (early version) or this (later version). If there is no cross bracing of the main hoop then it isn't an FIA bar. Edited by - Shaun_E on 17 Mar 2011 14:07:30

Don't know what you are talking about Mark That video is awesome though. Makes our little hills look...well...little!

Cheers Mark - I'll drop him a line.

Has anyone got an old K-series sump they took off a transplant engine? It doesn't have to be oil tight - I just need it to protect a spare bottom end. Thanks, Shaun

I have used Dave Jackson's simple method and when I finally put the car on the scales it was very close to perfect. 1. Set front lower wishbones parallel to the ground (and therefore equal number of turns) - you can modify this if you don't like the resultant ground clearance. 2. Add desired rake - 15mm is a good start (measured from the chassis to the ground at the front engine mount and the leading edge of the rear wing) 3. Add 3 or 4 turns to the rear drivers side - roughly takes account of the driver's weight.

Steve - my 226bhp engine ran with the standard fuel pump but the injectors were close to 100% duty cycle at the top end - I don't know whether the limiting factor was the injectors or the pump. I have fitted the uprated pump for my upgraded engine (and bigger injectors).

*arrowup*Think that should read QED! I have bought the QED one to fit in the next couple of weeks. Lot of threads recently on the swap so do a search going back about 6 months.

Given your wheel sizes, 215 front and 235 rear Khumo V70 is a pretty good choice. Medium or hard compound depending on your power output and driving style. I use hard - they take a couple of laps to warm up but are good after that. A few fellow sprinters have tried medium and found they went off a bit quickly.

I've been using an Optimate on my Redtop 25 for years and it's kept it in fine condition. Odyssey/Redtop/etc. are "absorbed acid" batteries where the acid is absorbed into fine glass mats. That's why you can mount them in any oirentation, send them through the post and not spill acid everywhere if the case gets cracked.

1. Those switches will require relays to operate most things as they aren't made to take high currents. I had my car rewired last year using those switches and it took lots of time to set them up to work properly especially getting the illumination right. Caterham use a bespoke control board which they sell for about £300 - I should have bought one of them! 5. I made some out of 4x4 fence posts and some heavy duty castors but machine mart sell some decent ones for not too much money.

1 litre is plenty

Hi Barry - would it be possible to have a reasonably sized next page button? Preferably sited not too close to other buttons. I often browse blatchat on a small touchscreen (an iPod touch) and trying to touch the "2" to get to the next page is a bit tricky and usually involves zooming in a lot. It would make things easier for other mobile device users as well. Just a thought. Cheers, Shaun